OK...so changin the alternator on SC300
08-18-05, 01:04 AM
#1
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OK...so changin the alternator on SC300
aiite guys here it is...I've never seen a post on changing the alternator on an SC and I jus did mine on my SC300...lemme jus say...PAIN IN THE ***, but worth it...it'll save you money for a few hours of work...
symptoms:
battery light on (for me it was pretty obvious cuz I got like 207k on my car so it was due for a new alternator, other things...the alternator for the noobs is what recharges the battery constantly when your cars running.
anyway so here it is...
1st you gotta jack up the passenger side of your car a little bit (makes it easier) then unplug the hose that is blocking you way (it's a coolant hose)...then you unscrew the top bolt and the bottom nut on the alternator (both 14mm)...pull the alternator off as far as it can go then you gotta force the belt off the pulley...that's a pain you either gotta be really strong but I recommend 2 people because the belt is insanely tight...ok so now you need ta take off the sensor from the back of the alternator and the ground wire (12 mm i think)...so take out the alternator ( you need ta save it cus you can return the money for a nice chunk of change (mine's $50) so then you put the new alternator back...the easiest way was to put in the sensor so it wont randomly fall out then stick the alternator on the bottom bolt and bolt in the top...make sure it's straight and then tighten the nut on the bottom bolt...so now you're alternator's in place nice and secure...now the trickiest part the pulley...the easiest way to do it is to make sure you get the belt wrapped around the pulley's properly (there's a diagram on your hood if you forget) then wrap it on all of the pulley's except for the top left pulley and this is where the stregth issue comes in...it took me and my friend to pull the belt to get enough slack and wrap it on the top left pulley...but once we did it the first time it was a lot easier because we knew how it would go on but not necessarilly busy because the belt is crazy tight...so once that's on and your belt looks nice an all...you can give it a spin or two to make sure it runs properly...so now you're home free because all you have left is to reattach the coolant hose (hopefully not too much seeped out) and then dont forget your car's jacked up!! because that's what I forgot and started my car and ran over my jack and completly scratched up my newly paved driveway which my mom wasnt too happy about...haha oops...
ok anyway...I hope this helps for at least one person because it would've helped a lot for when I was doing my change and I realized we have never had a full thread on the change...so here it is...leave some comments to let me know if/how it helps...also you can msg me with any questions...goodluck PEACE
symptoms:
battery light on (for me it was pretty obvious cuz I got like 207k on my car so it was due for a new alternator, other things...the alternator for the noobs is what recharges the battery constantly when your cars running.
anyway so here it is...
1st you gotta jack up the passenger side of your car a little bit (makes it easier) then unplug the hose that is blocking you way (it's a coolant hose)...then you unscrew the top bolt and the bottom nut on the alternator (both 14mm)...pull the alternator off as far as it can go then you gotta force the belt off the pulley...that's a pain you either gotta be really strong but I recommend 2 people because the belt is insanely tight...ok so now you need ta take off the sensor from the back of the alternator and the ground wire (12 mm i think)...so take out the alternator ( you need ta save it cus you can return the money for a nice chunk of change (mine's $50) so then you put the new alternator back...the easiest way was to put in the sensor so it wont randomly fall out then stick the alternator on the bottom bolt and bolt in the top...make sure it's straight and then tighten the nut on the bottom bolt...so now you're alternator's in place nice and secure...now the trickiest part the pulley...the easiest way to do it is to make sure you get the belt wrapped around the pulley's properly (there's a diagram on your hood if you forget) then wrap it on all of the pulley's except for the top left pulley and this is where the stregth issue comes in...it took me and my friend to pull the belt to get enough slack and wrap it on the top left pulley...but once we did it the first time it was a lot easier because we knew how it would go on but not necessarilly busy because the belt is crazy tight...so once that's on and your belt looks nice an all...you can give it a spin or two to make sure it runs properly...so now you're home free because all you have left is to reattach the coolant hose (hopefully not too much seeped out) and then dont forget your car's jacked up!! because that's what I forgot and started my car and ran over my jack and completly scratched up my newly paved driveway which my mom wasnt too happy about...haha oops...
ok anyway...I hope this helps for at least one person because it would've helped a lot for when I was doing my change and I realized we have never had a full thread on the change...so here it is...leave some comments to let me know if/how it helps...also you can msg me with any questions...goodluck PEACE
08-19-05, 08:17 PM
#2
Intermediate
Hey thanks for the write up!
It would have been a much easier job for you if you had taken the belt off before you did anything else. I've had to take mine off when I did my power steering pump, and it was very easy. Just get a wrench on the tensioner and push it downwards and to the left.
BTW, did the replacement alternator come with the pulley? Or should you remove the pulley off of the old alternator?
It would have been a much easier job for you if you had taken the belt off before you did anything else. I've had to take mine off when I did my power steering pump, and it was very easy. Just get a wrench on the tensioner and push it downwards and to the left.
BTW, did the replacement alternator come with the pulley? Or should you remove the pulley off of the old alternator?
03-13-06, 05:21 AM
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It took me 15-20 min to get it off......Had never done it before either. 1st I took the 4 bolts hoding the fan off, than removed the belt. dosconnectected the neg terminal on the battery . next took off the + cable from the alternator; than removed the 2 14s holding it on and pulled it off. Now for the hardest part that took 5 min.......getting the negitive/VR connector wire out of the stupid zip tie on the back of the alternator. I was amazed at how easy it went; did it all from the top and the car never left the ground.
09-20-06, 05:07 PM
#4
There is a way to do it by just removing the alternator bolts
I just wanted to add to what was mentioned before.
Just wanted to provide another alternative for people doing this.
I did this today with the help of a friend in less than 20 minutes.
I did not have to undo any fan bolts, but I lifted the car off the ground
First disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Next locate the belt tensioner, and with a 14 mm wrench, apply force to the right. This will loosen the belts and let you take the belt off the alternator.
The next steps are what was mentioned before by JHIRSH.
Remove the two bolts that hold the alternator, and the two connectors.
Slide the alternator forward and pop the new one in.
Reconnect everything, tighten the bolts, and put the belt back on by applying force to the tensioner again. Ensure all the belts are aligned correctly
Finally reconnect the negative terminal, recharge the battery (probably had less than 11.0 V), and the car should start right up.
Just wanted to provide another alternative for people doing this.
I did this today with the help of a friend in less than 20 minutes.
I did not have to undo any fan bolts, but I lifted the car off the ground
First disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Next locate the belt tensioner, and with a 14 mm wrench, apply force to the right. This will loosen the belts and let you take the belt off the alternator.
The next steps are what was mentioned before by JHIRSH.
Remove the two bolts that hold the alternator, and the two connectors.
Slide the alternator forward and pop the new one in.
Reconnect everything, tighten the bolts, and put the belt back on by applying force to the tensioner again. Ensure all the belts are aligned correctly
Finally reconnect the negative terminal, recharge the battery (probably had less than 11.0 V), and the car should start right up.
09-22-06, 04:35 AM
#5
Lexus Champion
Now that you've changed you alternator, you should change your distributor 0-ring seal if you haven't done so already. Oil leaking from the distributor will damage your alternator.
~Josh
09-22-06, 07:02 AM
#6
Here's a great step-by-step pictoral of an alternator removal/partial rebuild, which also happens to include p.s. pump removal/dissasembly/rebuild. Found it useful when I went in just last week to replace my pump and alternator.
I noticed my serpentine belt had tiny cracks in it, so I decided to swap it out too (only $26). In fact, I highly recommend replacing that serp. belt. If you look at the tensioner pulley, there's a set of markings (forged into the metal like braile) that indicates the tension of the belt. With the old belt on, it was pretty close to the lowest amount of allowable tension (the marker to the far right). When I replaced with the new belt the tension went up by about 2 1/2 notches! - about one notch from the tightest measurement (far left). It's always best to have as little "play" as possible when it comes to the serpentine belt - or any belt for that matter.
BTW: If you've got one, I recommend using a breaker bar to turn the 14mm nut on the pre-tensioner pulley. Even with that baby turned all the way, it still took me about 3 or 4 minutes to get the new belt on. So if yours slipped right back on with no effort, then it's definately time to replace it.
Here's the link:
http://hoshiko.jc-coleman.com/howto/pspump-removal.html
I noticed my serpentine belt had tiny cracks in it, so I decided to swap it out too (only $26). In fact, I highly recommend replacing that serp. belt. If you look at the tensioner pulley, there's a set of markings (forged into the metal like braile) that indicates the tension of the belt. With the old belt on, it was pretty close to the lowest amount of allowable tension (the marker to the far right). When I replaced with the new belt the tension went up by about 2 1/2 notches! - about one notch from the tightest measurement (far left). It's always best to have as little "play" as possible when it comes to the serpentine belt - or any belt for that matter.
BTW: If you've got one, I recommend using a breaker bar to turn the 14mm nut on the pre-tensioner pulley. Even with that baby turned all the way, it still took me about 3 or 4 minutes to get the new belt on. So if yours slipped right back on with no effort, then it's definately time to replace it.
Here's the link:
http://hoshiko.jc-coleman.com/howto/pspump-removal.html
11-16-06, 09:11 AM
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Here's a great step-by-step pictoral of an alternator removal/partial rebuild, which also happens to include p.s. pump removal/dissasembly/rebuild. Found it useful when I went in just last week to replace my pump and alternator.
Here's the link:
http://hoshiko.jc-coleman.com/howto/pspump-removal.html
Here's the link:
http://hoshiko.jc-coleman.com/howto/pspump-removal.html
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