BlueKush86

so i baught my sc3 last weekend knowing it didnt have a fan but it ran fine. the temperature would jump high at times when im at idle for a long long time. driving wise it hasn't overheated yet. so, just as a procaution i decided to pick up a junkyard fan from a 97 concorde 30 bucks. i guess it will help when i smog my car tomorrow. heres some pics of my project so far.


had to trim the fan shroud.


dual fan off a 97 concorde kinda heavy but for 30 bucks....


voula zip tie magic.


black wire ground... brown wire low speed... yellow wire high speed.


dont know if i can do that?


but i did it anyways.. hook up the thermo sensor to the radiator.


for now i ran the fan off the city light ignition so i can do my smog. so to turn on my fan i need to turn on the city lights lol. i used the diagram included it says to run the thermo sensor to the block but i dont know if the sc300 even have a spot for it. enstead i ran it to the radiator does anyone know if i can do that? or would it have to be attached to the block? ive seen on many hondas they already pre drilled a spot for thermo sensor on the block. im fairly new to this vehicle and havent had a chance to buy a repair manual. i will definanly post more pics as soon as i figure this out.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

*raising hand*

Is that where all the power is coming from for the fans?

BlueKush86

if your asking if i hooked up the power from the fan straight to the battery then no. its hooked up to a 5 prong relay from the ralay to the battery power with a 30A fuse. there are only 3 wires. the black is ground the other 2 are power for low and high speed.

jibbby

Hey, good job and you did it for cheap.. .I paid $200 or so for my dual flex-a lite fans, and I decided to power up with the straight ignition power source (relay) for ultimate reliability,,I didn't t want any problems from using heat sensors and thermsticks.... My car takes a little longer to get up to normal running temp but that is it...,,I also have a kill switch for racing.....Car cools better then I expected and I really couldn't be happier with this mod... It frees up room, horses, and reduces front end car weight by 25-30 pounds.....

This mod does require some skills when deleting a hydo pump... !5 minutes if you know what your doing, could take days if you don't...

BlueKush86

jibby i think i replied to your post on the lexus owners club regarding your electric fan set up. great job romoving the fan hyd. pulley . im trying to run a thermo sensor but encountered some problems. still trying to find a solution.

eskinol

Keep us updated on its performance. If I can find a electric fan that is as efficient or better, more efficient, I'd jump at it. GL and looks strong.

jibbby

I had problems too with the thermo sensor that came with the fans. i installed and hoped and prayed that it activated the fans when the engine heated. Sometimes it would and sometimes it wouldn't.., Most upsetting....I couldn't get it right so I took the thermo stick out of my radiator and threw it as far as could........I then went with a SELCO heat sensor that activates when the engine block temp reaches a certain temp...That sensor was mounted to the block and was working great for about one day and then went dead for no apparent reason that I could think of.....It could have been the hot temp glue I used that may have fouled the sensor...Anyway,. I removed that tiny heat sensor and proceeded to throw it also as far as could out of frustration......At that point I simply grabbed the ignition wire and a relay and said enough is enough....

Reliability is where it is at with this fan mod....So now when the car starts the fans start, and when the car shuts off the fans shut off. .. This is working just fine for me for some time now......The engines thermostate regulates the engines operating temp, so who cares if the water in the radiator is being chilled by the fans when it is really not needed....There really is not a big power draw at 20amps with these dual fans so whether they stay on or off doesn't really matter...I don't think power or fuel economy is sacrificed.... I really like it this way and I can now sleep at night

Go for the ignition wire bro, no worries and it ends up being more reliable then stock... Nothing is going to happen with the ignition wire and relay, just make sure you get the power and ground from the battery and not from the ignition wire....Good luck.......

Last5Spd

i have my dual zirgos wired directly to a fuse.. i have never seen the needle go higher than 1/2 on my 1jz setup. The zirgos were the best idea ever thanks to Chino.

BlueKush86

so what your saying is i have to run the power and ground from the fan straight to the battery? what i did was run the fan power to the city light using a 30A fuse in between and ran the ground straight to the battery. during the day i flip the city lights on/off when i want my fan on or off (i like this option). at night its a different story. will this method work or will i need to redo it?


what is a zirgos, how much, and where can i source one? my needle usually stay a little below 1/2 which is normal but i expect it to be much lower. im only using only low speed for now. would the car perform alot better if the coolant temp is lower. should i leave it alone or more juice what do you guys think?

jibbby

No man - no wonder your poping fuses, you are overloading that power feed....

The fan power needs to coming directly from the battery and or alternattor and the ground is the ground, and yes that too can go directly to the battery.... Now the relay goes to the ignition wire, when juice hits the ignition wire it activates the fans like it would with a therostick or heat sensor.... It is that simple... Can't go wrong with that...If you tap the power from other sources that overloads the wire fuses and they pop because that wire is powering multiple tasks and not just one like it is ment too....I hope that makes sense.....

BlueKush86

ahh ok makes sense now thanks jibb ill have to redo it. although i havent ran into any fuse problems yet but that could be the reason why the rpm jumps to 1k whenever i turn on the fan. so heres how it should look fan power to battery w/ 30A fuse and from relay to ignition power? any fuse between the ignition?

jibbby

No fuse to the ignition....Remember no real power is really being sucked from the ignition wire...It is more of a sensing wire to activate the fans....The fans will get the feed power directly from the battery.....The relay which can be purchased at any auto shop should have atleast three wires....A Positive and a Negative power source and the relay....So easy...... Instructions usually come with the relay when you purchase it too....If you don;t want the ignition activation just hook that same relay wire to a heat sensor instead.... I can't explain it any clearer then that.....Relay boxes are about $5, but just make sure your connections are solid and covered...You never want bare wire to show and touch anything (like metal)... The fuse should be installed on the hot power wire only......Good luck...

Last5Spd

search on the forums for ZIrgos.. i cant seem to help you out right now.. but it was posted by Chino. my needle stays like a lil before half and is rock ****in solid.. never moves...i wired it directly to the battery cause i dont want to screw around with those thermo sensors they always end up failing. even if i pound the hell out my car still stays the same..

nasc300

The best electric fan to use is a lincoln/ ford electic fan. You can get them for less than $100. There are 2 verions that we would be concerned about (see below).
Fox body turbo Mustang guys (myself included ) have been using these for years. They are 2 speed fans and the generate more cfm's than ANY aftermarket single or dual fans. Zirgos don't even come close. They also happen to be a perfect fit for the SC300/400 radiator and they come with a fully functional shroud. You can dich the original shroud. Once installed it will look like a stock pice.
In order of personal preference
1. You can wire the low speed with the ignition switch through a relay and the high speed via a thermo sensor like above also using a relay.
2. You can just wire the fan to turn on, on high speed via a thermo sensor through a relay
3. You can wire the fan to turn on, on high speed with the ignition switch through a relay.
4. You wire it up to a manually operated switch through a relay

Use any black/orane wire in the engine bay for the relay signal wire (12 volt switched wire).
The black/orane wire is the main switched power supply under hood. It just goes around in one big loop under hood. You can find the black/orane wire at the ignitor, coil, each injector. Ther will be no issuese "tapping power" for the relay signal.

Version 1



version 2 not as nice looking IMO but it generates a storm just like the one above