Midengtoy

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to install a new water pump in my sc300 and I'm just wondering what the steps are to remove and replace the water pump. I did a search and did not find anything on it. I'm looking for exact steps or what needs to be removed in order to replace the water pump, and pics would be great too. Thanks for all the help.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

Before you attempt this, PLEASE get the service manual. You can find electronic versions for $10. The TSM shows you step-by-step procedures on how to do this properly.

Supra Dr

iTrader: (14)

Also try searching timing belt replacement. The t-belt needs to come off in order
to access the water pump.

Midengtoy

iTrader: (3)

Got water pump in no leaks, Yay! Went to start car and it idles at 2k rpm and studders, bogs and check engine light is on. Can it be that my timing is off? I didn't move any cams or crank pulley when the timing belt was off and the marks line up. Cams line up to backing plate marks and crank pully lines up to 0. After one revolution the cams are 180degree apart and then after the second eveything lines up again. My car runs like crap, but it sounds mean as hell..hahha! Is this a timing problem?

Supra Dr

iTrader: (14)

Sounds like the timing marks are correct. Pull codes if you can, probably left something
unplugged/ disconnected. The code would take you right to the spot, rather than
hunting around.

Midengtoy

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply. So I tried to pull the codes today but it didn't work. I hooked E1 with Te1 and the check engine light didn't flash at all it just stayed on. I tested both areas, under the hood and under dash, samething happened on both. So then I used a volt meter to measure the voltage between E1 and Te1 using E1 as ground and it was around 12.5 volts. According to my Mitchell On Demand5 at work it says that voltage between 9-14 between E1 and Te1 means I need to replace my E.C.M. I asked my master mechanic and he said that I probably have a bad ground to the E.C.M. I have no idea whats going on now, is my E.C.M. bad or is my timing off? My car never did this before waterpump replacement. I did also install an electric fan also, could that have burned out any grounds? I can rev past 3500rpm but if I floor it, it'll choke at 3500rpm. The intake is really loud and sucking in alot of air and it smells like I'm running rich. Actually I am running rich because I got one of my mechanics to pull the number 1 plug out and he said I was running rich. Also we relined up the timing belt at 0, but when the vehicle is running the mark shows up at about 7 with a timing light. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Midengtoy

iTrader: (3)

Ok so more progress on the car is done. Recheck timing and timing is on. The weird thing is that when driving sometimes the check engine light goes off and the car runs fine and then the light would come back on and the car would run like crap again. Can this be a MAF sensor going bad? I checked the air boxes under the intake pipe and they're tight, rpm doesn't change when I push the boxes together with the intake pipe. Any one locally have a MAF I can try to see if it is the MAF? I'm in St. Paul, Minnesota. Help please?

Supra Dr

iTrader: (14)

You should be able to pull codes. I would back up & recheck ALL the wiring for the fans.
You maybe using a power or a ground for the fans that is tied into a sensor feed or
ECU & it's bothering the system. The power & grounds for the fans should come
from the battery w/ a fuse. Don't tap into or pick up a line out of the harness unless
you know what it is & where it goes. If all the wiring checks out I would find someone w/
a scan tool. That code when the light is on will lead you in the right direction instead of
guessing. If your still unsure, take the electric fans back out as a test & drive it.

Was anything else done while you were doing the timing belt. The fans are new.

Midengtoy

iTrader: (3)

Well I tapped my fan into the cigarette lighter so that it comes on only when the car is on. I pushed the black box on the end of my MAF and my car died. I also unplugged the MAF and the car still ran the same as if nothing was unplugged. I couldn't pull the codes with the scan machine and I couldn't jump the light from the fuse box either. I tested voltage between the 2 hook ups, E1 and Te1, and it's sitting at 12.5 volts which according to repair says that I need to replace my ECM. I can't imagine that I would have blown my ECM so it's gotta be a bad ground to the ECM. I'm gonna get a different MAF and test it anyways. Heck $50 bucks to answer my doubt.

sc250tt

Sounds Like Your Timing .if The Intake Is Louder Than Normal ,if I Was You Instead Of Troubleshooting The Whole Car I Would Troubleshoot Where I Worked On .but It Sound Like A Timing Issue