dejacky

iTrader: (2)

I'm starting headgasket Install today (yes i will include these pics in my na-t guide). Is it bad not to replace valve stem seals or any other seals when changing the headgasket? When I start the car I get NO white or grey smoke of any kind..If I rev it quite high I can get a little darker colored exhaust smoke, but you have to look for it to see it...i'm hoping it's just because I gutted the catolytic converters. What do you guys think?

TMaxxTim

I am putting in a TT headgasket today or tomorrow as well. I was going to pay A little over $275 to have a valve job done, but I put it into perspective for myself. I'm probably not keeping this car for another 160k, let alone another 10k or 20k, so to me its not worth doing a valve job on this engine. I'd much rather save it and put some money into something else.

So just decide whether its worth the extra money while you're in there. But no, its not going to cause damage not to.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

thanks. I just decided it's not worth the extra $$$, especially if I'm getting no smoke, etc. Starting the install now, wish me luck peeps!

95 Integra

The only time I can tell my valve seals are shot is when its cold outside. Even with the car warmed up, when I come to a stop and let it idle for a little while, it starts smoking. Doesnt do it if its over about 70 degrees. Generally Id blow that off as something besides the stem seals, but after seeing the rest of toyota rubber products fail miserable I have no question that they are shot.

TMaxxTim

BTW, are you using any headgasket sealant in yours? Some people have reccomended it but I dont really know anything about it.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

i'm not that far yet..still removing **** hehe.. I don't remember reading about adding "headgasket sealant" anywhere in my service manual though...it just seems like as long as the surfaces are clean that's good enough.

TMaxxTim

Ha, mine's sitting apart in my garage right now waiting for the head to be resurfaced. Just LMK if you need any help connecting all those vacuum tubes when you're putting it backtogether. That was a mess...

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, i'll probably take you up on that offer . I'm just curious are you still on original water pump? I'm wondering if I can get away without replacing that too since a Lexus master mechanic I trust said they don't need to be replaced until 120,000 miles usually. Also, what spark plug gap do you plan on using? I want those denso iridiums in the ngk 3330 heat range but not sure which gap is best for our compression setups.

TMaxxTim

I didnt look into changing the gap at all, I didnt even think about it, so I'm not sure what to do there.I replaced my waterpump because it was leaking at 150k, I have no idea if it was changed before that. My dad changed it again at 155k, when my timing belt shredded (i figured out later I dropped a screw in the case). But for $60 for a waterpump on rockauto.com, I'd go ahead and do it.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

Is this the radiator drain plug? If yes, what is the proper way to get it out?

TMaxxTim

Just turn it, the coolant will start draining out of that hose.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

TMaxxTim, thank you it worked! Although, it's taking a while to drain through that small hose. The service manual says to undo a coolant plug on the passenger side of the engine block. Is this it?

TMaxxTim

No idea if thats it. You can pull out the plug all the way and it flows faster. But that will make a huge mess, not a big deal if there already is one though.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

This is a new distributor rotor after only ~9,000 miles. Should I replace it?:

TMaxxTim

A cap & Rotor on rockauto.com is only $14. I'm replacing mine, although I'm not sure when the last time it was replaced, could be 160k old although it doesn't look like it.