JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

Im almost done gathering all the parts for my AUTO to 5SPEED transmission swap on my 93 SC300. Ive spent a good amount of time looking for everything I need. I am planning on doing the install myself or maybe with the help of a friend. The only two things that seem kind of difficult for me are the Master Cylinder and the Clutch pedal. I heard it is a total pain installing those two things. I searched but couldnt find anything on installing the Master Cylinder or the Clutch pedal. Im looking for installation instructions for these if anyone has them. Pictures would make my life easier. Thanks!

List of things I still need that maybe someone can help me out with :
-Shift ****
-Shift boot
-Black plastic thing that goes around shift boot
-Clutch

jpvarghese

iTrader: (1)

The whole procedure is a *****, but i'm glad I'm finished with it. First and foremost, I removed the panels form underneath the steering column to take a look at the firewall. You will have several things in the way. I would suggest you remove the electronic tilt/telescopic computer module and the bracket its attached to. As far as tools go man, I didn't have the proper tools and it took me some time to get this done. I had help too, as it also helps! Anyways, if you look at the firewall insulation you will see a cutout; pull out that foam cutout and behind it you will see the outline for the clutch pedal assembly or the master cylinder "holes" in a template. You have to drill out those holes to the exact size of the template. This is the hard part; because its hard to know what tool to use. I used an angle drill to drill a hole through the firewall; this is time consuming. Once these holes were made I used a dremel with a metal cutting bit to slowly cut out the holes. The topmost hole is a ***** and if you don't have the right tools you might need to drill through the outside. With some help; it was finally done. the master cylinder should slide right through and hook up to your clutch pedal. Once connected, attach the clutch assembly onto the firewall and you should be good! Another hard part, but not necessary is the brake pedal. Removing that and replacing it with the manual one is a *****, but alot easier than actually removingthe whole bracket assembly. This is what I did and it seemed fine! Also this is where I left off. Hopefully during the spring/summer time I will have a Getrag and a manual subtunnel to make the swap look completely stock!
-justin

JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

Wow thats alot for the info I really appreciate it. I keep hearing the same thing about the swap. That the hardest part is drilling those holes for the master cylinder. So..what you are saying is that there is like some kind of pre-drawn template on the firewall behind the insulation? Thats pretty cool. I'll have to check up on that. Do you happen to have any pictures? Just so I can get a good idea of what Im going to be working with. So it looks like I will need a dremel and a drill for sure. Do you know what size drill bit to use?

jpvarghese

iTrader: (1)

Yes there is a template; I was pretty relieved once i saw that. Off the top of my head I can't tell you the size of the drill bit; but it was smaller than the overall width of the circle you should cut. I just made a pilot hole with the drill bit so that i can finish it off using the dremel. The dremel bits are all the same size i believe and I just traced the template and voila! I have pictures, but its in my buddy's computer. Also I forgot to add, you have to cut off a decent amount of the foam padding to have the clutch assembly flushly mount on the metal firewall.
-Justin

JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

Oh very nice. So after I drill and mount up the Clutch Pedal assembly do you think I should go out and order some more insulation to kind of cover it up? Also how did you do the clutch lines?

jpvarghese

iTrader: (1)

I don't think real manual transmission cars have the insulation there, but its always better though because i can actually hear my engine if I listen for it after the insulation has been ripped off.
-Justin

Anomaly

if you need any info with the swap, i've completed fairly recently so everything is still fresh in my mind. the lines is easy to run, order them from the dealership, i paid about 90-100 for them. running them is easy, do that after you get the tranny in. take some time thinking and preparing what you're going to do before actually doing it, i spent 2 weeks working on the car and i just finished yesterday, i still have a couple of more things to do.

JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

Deng dude..2 weeks? How many hours a day did you spend on the project?? Im pretty sure I can finish in about 2 days maximum. Its good to hear that the lines will be easy to run. I have all the parts ready to go including the lines. I just need the clutch but thats easy to get. Do you happen to have any pictures of when you were swapping in and everything? Just so I can get a better idea and know what to expect. Im hoping that everything will go smoothly with no problems. Are there any problems that I might encounter? Thanks guys you've all been a great help. I'll try and post up pictures. I dont think I will get to work on it for another week so I'll keep everyone posted.

Anomaly

i work full time and go to school full time so i spent about 2-3 hours a day working on the car, 2 days maximum is very possible, grab another of your buddies, you'll need him when you're guiding the tranny in. i took some pictures for my friends site but i haven't been able to get ahold of them. some things that were unexpected was that i had to dremmel out a larger hole for the shfiter. I couldn't figure out which wires to connect to bypass the neutral start so i wired in a push start button directly to the start. I have a manual ECU coming my way so it will solve alot of my problems. And impact gun helps alot with the swap, so if you have access to one use it. lets see what other advices i can give you. oh yeah, expect gunk and black stuff to be falling on your face, so i suggest spraying simple green on the undercarriage and wiping off as much grime as you can, unless you like the greasy mechanic look. any problems feel free to PM.

JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

Ohh ok I understand. I dont start school until the 16th I think so until then Im all free and hoping to finish in two days. Ok so uhm I just read your post and I have a couple more questions that crossed my mind.

1) Do I have to connect wires up a certain way to bypass the neutral start? Im assuming that by getting a 5speed ECU I wont have this problem right?

2) What is an impact gun and what do I need it for (specifically)?

3) How do I wire up the reverse light?

..

Anomaly

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/aut...wap/index.html thats a write up for the auto -> 6-speed swap, but same principles. it tells you which wires to connect for the reverse lights. 5 speed ecu fixes the neutral start problem as well as timing issues. i'm driving around with an auto ECU and i can feel the bogging due to timing issues. an impact gun requires an air compressor, its a pneumatic tool that uses compressed air to turn sockets, it makes taking off the tranny slightly easier, assuming you have long enough extensions. if you don't have access to one you can still do it, it just makes your job a heck of a lot easier