$C300

iTrader: (1)

Almost Done

Mounting:
I basically use the factory location to mount the box, by the left (fender side) mount I used an L-bracket to mount the box and on the right side I drilled a hole in the bottom of the box to bolt up in the factory spot.

Pix

L-bracket (fender side)

Right side mounts (Sry for the blurry pic)


And a teaser pic

Quick VR-4

iTrader: (2)

I am really impressed with the job you are doing. Very nicely done and budget minded which we all can benefit from.

cheungsta

Nicely done! Great write up and looks fantastic!! Any particular reason you decided to do this project instead of the BFI? I would love to replace the intake tube with that polished aluminum one....*note to self* future project...when I have time...

As for the scoop / no-scoop...I saw that you removed the snorkel, and if you just plan on having direct air flow from the vents under the headlights, won't you have water issues? Just a thought....

$C300

iTrader: (1)

Tnx for the compliments

cheungsta: I wanted something more then just a BFI + all they Eye candy , as for the scoop I have a few things planed for the future possibly a ram air setup. To address the water issue im thinning about one of those filter guards that are supposed to keep water out just as a temporary fix until I come up with a permanent solution.

bigmalik00

would this work for the SC400?

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Good job boys

You'se guy's are gonna love mine The 97 bumper give me a lot more flexibility on inlet size and I have been working with sheetmetal for a bit now at my leisure. Pics when I am done.

The words "Ram air" come to mind

$C300

iTrader: (1)

bigmalik00: i personaly woldnt kno (i have a SC300) i would htink the olny thing you need to change is the tube posibly form a GS400 but that olny a guess u could always give it a shot and let use kno

OLT: Glad to see onother member onboard

I will post new pic soon, possibly tomorrow

933005spd

Nice shield. I found that fabricating it out of a thicker gauge material, using an insulator material and having a top on it made a big difference.


Check out www.technicalhelp4u.com/lexus for some more data. This heat box had at least a 30° F temp difference.

P

Koma

iTrader: (3)

I'm still skeptical on performance gains.
planetsoarer has tested a few different intake setups and they still come up with BFI as the best performance (and cheap).

933005spd

However, simple physics applies in this case, as in the equation I posted on my webpage:

PV = nRT (Pressure x Volume) = moles x constant x temperature

Now a little bit I plucked from the web:

The SAE J1349 relative horsepower calculation shows how air density alters the power output of a properly tuned engine. For example, at 85 deg F, 30.14 in-Hg barometer reading, 58 deg F dewpoint and 5000 ft altitude, the engine only produces about 81.1% of the rated horsepower.

For the SAE J1349 relative horsepower calculations, the standard reference conditions are: Air temp 77 deg F (25 deg C), 29.235 Inches- Hg (990 mb) actual pressure and 0% relative humidity.

The air density is the actual weight of a given volume of air. This is a key parameter for engine tuning.

The relative air density is the ratio of the calculated air density to the air density at sea level using the ICAO standard reference conditions.

The density altitude is the altitude in dry air that would have the same density as the input conditions. The ICAO standard conditions for zero density altitude are 0 meters altitude, 15 deg C (59 deg F) air temp, 1013.25 mb (29.921 in-Hg) pressure and 0 % relative humidity.
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Ok, still with me?

Now just as in the case of a turbed equiped with an intercooler (which is where I found the below tidbits), an NA engine also relies on that intake charge.

If we remember the Ideal Gas Law referenced above (that is a good google term + horsepower for more reading) then we can continue that:

Di = Air Density

Di= Boost pressure(if you have it)+ Atmospheric pressure/ R x 12 x (460+ intake temp)
Using 150 degrees as the intake temp, the air density is
Di= 0+14.7/53.3 x 12 x (460+150)
Di= 3.76 x 10 -5th power, lb/cubic inch

Calculate for the mass air flow of the engine at 6000 rpm and 90% volumetric efficiency:

Mf= Di x Engine displacement in cubic inches x RPM of match point/2 x Volumetric Efficiency
Mf= 3.76 x 10 -5th power x 182 (for the 3.0) x 6000 rpm/2 x .90
Mf= 18.51 lbs per minute

Substituting 175 degrees as the un shielded intake temperature, based on my real world test (see attached picture - engine temp under the hood was over 175 at the light, with the heatshield it was no higher than 150),

Di = 3.61 x 10 -5th power and Mf = 17.79 lbs per minute

Take this even further to figure out the approximate horsepower of each example, using this formula:

HP= Airflow x 60/Air Fuel Ratio x BSFC

Airflow is in lb/min, 60 is to convert minutes units to hours, and BSFC is Brake Specific Fuel Consumption as measured in lb of fuel per hp per hour. We'll use 12.5:1 for the air fuel ratio and 0.5 for the BSFC.

HP= 18.51x 60/12.5 x 0.50
HP= 177.69

So with heatshield we are looking at 178 HP,

Without heatshield 171:

HP = 17.79 x 60/12 x 0.5
HP = 170.78


A theoretical gain of 7 Horsepower. Of course a Dyno would be great on the same car under the same conditions.

Peter

Datalogger Results from Heatshield Run

$C300

iTrader: (1)

Heat shield installed and insulated:







After driving around with this setup for approximately 30min I notice a significant difference in temperature around the filter and the engine bay.

933005spd: I was actually thinking about covering the top of the filter as u pictured a few days ago, the foam seal up nicely but I think covering the top might be better.

b1ackhawk

Wow, that very clean looking, the pics on the site are small though.

933005spd

I know, I know. Will get it updated properly soon.

akdmks

whatd you use for the new walls and cover?

SCoupe

First I want to thank you and say I really appreciate the sheet metal work and the measurements you posted up here. I am going to pattern from that. One thing I will add is some insulation to further isolate the intake from the engine bay heat. Using the chrome looking bubble wrap used as water heater blankets. I have serious engine bay heat issues from the 2jz-gte Supra Twins boosting at 14psi, that adds a whole new thing to heat in there.

I am going to throw some of my opinions in here, for what its worth. IMHO: I would reconsider the wheel well intake. You will never notice the slight pull down of the black plastic under the bumper for the BFI. It is recessed against a black backdrop inside a dark bumper cavity. When people looked for mine they they never found it, even though the size of the BFI opening is just massive. I had to point it out after they got on their hands and knees, stuck their head about 18" away. No one will ever know its there. The under the bumper intake completely eliminates any possibility of water ever getting to the filter.

However, on N/A 2jz-ge, either solution may be more than sufficient. I lost my BFI to a FMIC, so I had to come up with something, (edit) My solution this past weekend follows in this thread for a truly effective and dirt cheap intake in the fender, something to consider, more in line with what you're looking for.

Next, I'd ditch the foam, it will disinegrate and it's an eyesore. At the track speeds my car sees it would get blown apart. Your solution is a top cover and the positive pressure seal gain that is again from the BFI, pix from the site attached here very simalar to the one from member 933005sp post. Of course with you do not get to see your cone intake, so looks or performance, your call. BFI was always about performace and all trade offs had that bias: