TT 1UZ Rebuild
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09-24-05, 03:23 PM
#11
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Location: Illinois
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hi guys,, i made rdm start this thread--kinda a show and tell.. 
im making him do as much of the work as he can,, i will try and point out a couple of things if i remember..
this is the spare motor he had picked up.. it was in very good condition,, and were guesing around 100,000 miles plus.. it is an early one--so there may be alot of miles on it..BUT,, it was well maitained and probably not abused so evrything looked to be in great shape.. the bearings were in great shape--not worn,,and they still fit snug in the rods and engine.. if your taking apart con rods and the bearings "fall" out-- the motor was probably experiencing detonation and or general abuse.. they kind of "snap" into place.. and should kinda snap out,, even on a well used engine..
the mains-even with six bolts- came aprt easily.. i had heard stories of the mains being difficult to remove,,but these were fine..
the heads were also in very good condition.. the valves were not really worn,, and the seats were also in good condition--so i decided a light valve lapping was all that we were gonna do.. if you do decide to do a valve job/cut the seats and valves,, remember that the valves relationship with the camshaft will change.. they (valves) will get closer to it,, and this would require the shims in the buckets to be adjusted accordingly..BUT,, being lazy like i am-
- the lapping was all that was needed..but i will check the clearances for the cam on assembly..
i also prefer-although ive never heard of people doing this-to polish the camshaft and the shims in the buckets.. somehow, i am convinced that this may reduce friction in the valvetrain..
one thing we did do on rdms engine is bore it out for the new forged pistons.. it required a .020 bore, because f the new pistons being 20 over,, and i had a good friend of mine do it for us..
as you probably noticed by now,, this is not a big budget rebuild.. rdm--like most newer owners of a older lexus cars- is an average guy with an average income.. so i will try and do as much of the workmyself- with rdms help.. to keep costs in check.. actually,, i know rdm likes working on his car--i even like working on his car..kinda like exploring new territory..
what else-- oh yeah.. the piston pins are not of the pressed in variety.. they are "floating" and are held in with clips that are easily removed..
the rods do look great--look strong and well made.. the caps are held in place with dowels,, and there is an oil squirt hole that squirts oil on the opposite cylinder wall.. unlike some of the other toyota engines ive worked on,, this engine does not have an oil squirte nozzle shooting directly onto the underside of the piston.. its to bad,, because the oil squirters do keep the piston cool,, and would be helpfull in a high compression or a turbo applicaton--BUT, the toyoya pistons we removed and even the new forged pistons were installing do have a thick head.. so the piston should be fine--i hope.. anyway,, il be making sure he keeps posting pics.. and ill try and keep an eye on the thread, and post comments..
im making him do as much of the work as he can,, i will try and point out a couple of things if i remember..this is the spare motor he had picked up.. it was in very good condition,, and were guesing around 100,000 miles plus.. it is an early one--so there may be alot of miles on it..BUT,, it was well maitained and probably not abused so evrything looked to be in great shape.. the bearings were in great shape--not worn,,and they still fit snug in the rods and engine.. if your taking apart con rods and the bearings "fall" out-- the motor was probably experiencing detonation and or general abuse.. they kind of "snap" into place.. and should kinda snap out,, even on a well used engine..
the mains-even with six bolts- came aprt easily.. i had heard stories of the mains being difficult to remove,,but these were fine..
the heads were also in very good condition.. the valves were not really worn,, and the seats were also in good condition--so i decided a light valve lapping was all that we were gonna do.. if you do decide to do a valve job/cut the seats and valves,, remember that the valves relationship with the camshaft will change.. they (valves) will get closer to it,, and this would require the shims in the buckets to be adjusted accordingly..BUT,, being lazy like i am-
- the lapping was all that was needed..but i will check the clearances for the cam on assembly..i also prefer-although ive never heard of people doing this-to polish the camshaft and the shims in the buckets.. somehow, i am convinced that this may reduce friction in the valvetrain..
one thing we did do on rdms engine is bore it out for the new forged pistons.. it required a .020 bore, because f the new pistons being 20 over,, and i had a good friend of mine do it for us..
as you probably noticed by now,, this is not a big budget rebuild.. rdm--like most newer owners of a older lexus cars- is an average guy with an average income.. so i will try and do as much of the workmyself- with rdms help.. to keep costs in check.. actually,, i know rdm likes working on his car--i even like working on his car..kinda like exploring new territory..
what else-- oh yeah.. the piston pins are not of the pressed in variety.. they are "floating" and are held in with clips that are easily removed..
the rods do look great--look strong and well made.. the caps are held in place with dowels,, and there is an oil squirt hole that squirts oil on the opposite cylinder wall.. unlike some of the other toyota engines ive worked on,, this engine does not have an oil squirte nozzle shooting directly onto the underside of the piston.. its to bad,, because the oil squirters do keep the piston cool,, and would be helpfull in a high compression or a turbo applicaton--BUT, the toyoya pistons we removed and even the new forged pistons were installing do have a thick head.. so the piston should be fine--i hope..
anyway,, il be making sure he keeps posting pics.. and ill try and keep an eye on the thread, and post comments..
09-24-05, 03:33 PM
#13
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i did forget a few things.. forged pistons require more clearance than cast,, so, they may be "noisy" especially on start up untill they warm up.. and they also seem to use more oil because of the excesive clearance..but a "looser" piston is good for HP..
that, in my opinion, is why we dont see them used in more OEM applications..i know they have been used in OEM,, but rarely..
so,, if your considering forged pistons--only get them if you truly need them.. like in a forced induction application..
and lastly,, if you guys would like to clean your own parts,, ive used 409-the cleaner.. and it seems to work pretty good.. of cource your still gonna need to do some scrubbing,, and there probably are better cleaners,, but it seems to work well,, and doesnt grey up the alluminum..
that, in my opinion, is why we dont see them used in more OEM applications..i know they have been used in OEM,, but rarely..
so,, if your considering forged pistons--only get them if you truly need them.. like in a forced induction application..
and lastly,, if you guys would like to clean your own parts,, ive used 409-the cleaner.. and it seems to work pretty good.. of cource your still gonna need to do some scrubbing,, and there probably are better cleaners,, but it seems to work well,, and doesnt grey up the alluminum..
09-24-05, 10:44 PM
#14
Chris, that engine looks incredibly clean...Wow...100k miles... 
Are you sure the over bore on the pistons is .20 and not .10? I was talking to David Phan, and I believe he said they were .10. David pipe in if you see this.
I can't wait to get into my second engine...
Ryan
Are you sure the over bore on the pistons is .20 and not .10? I was talking to David Phan, and I believe he said they were .10. David pipe in if you see this.
I can't wait to get into my second engine...
Ryan
