TT 1UZ Rebuild
12-30-06, 07:13 PM
#47
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Chris & I decided we wanted to use oil squirters in our application. Here are some photos of the squirters as we were putting them in.
We also noticed that the aftermarket rods (Pauter) don't have an oiling hole that the stock rods did have. the oiling hole supplies oil to the bottom of the piston, and the piston pin.
If your thinking of running an aftermarket rod, and don't want to run the squirters, make sure you have the manufacturer put the oiling hole back in, or it may lead to a piston/pin problem.
Up Close On One
In this last photo you can see the squirter in the bottom right corner of the piston (If round pistons have corners) LOL
We also noticed that the aftermarket rods (Pauter) don't have an oiling hole that the stock rods did have. the oiling hole supplies oil to the bottom of the piston, and the piston pin.
If your thinking of running an aftermarket rod, and don't want to run the squirters, make sure you have the manufacturer put the oiling hole back in, or it may lead to a piston/pin problem.
Up Close On One
In this last photo you can see the squirter in the bottom right corner of the piston (If round pistons have corners) LOL
12-31-06, 04:52 AM
#48
Lexus Fanatic
Chris & I decided we wanted to use oil squirters in our application. Here are some photos of the squirters as we were putting them in.
We also noticed that the aftermarket rods (Pauter) don't have an oiling hole that the stock rods did have. the oiling hole supplies oil to the bottom of the piston, and the piston pin.
If your thinking of running an aftermarket rod, and don't want to run the squirters, make sure you have the manufacturer put the oiling hole back in, or it may lead to a piston/pin problem.
Up Close On One
In this last photo you can see the squirter in the bottom right corner of the piston (If round pistons have corners) LOL
We also noticed that the aftermarket rods (Pauter) don't have an oiling hole that the stock rods did have. the oiling hole supplies oil to the bottom of the piston, and the piston pin.
If your thinking of running an aftermarket rod, and don't want to run the squirters, make sure you have the manufacturer put the oiling hole back in, or it may lead to a piston/pin problem.
Up Close On One
In this last photo you can see the squirter in the bottom right corner of the piston (If round pistons have corners) LOL
Thanks for the info, great pics!!!
12-31-06, 09:26 AM
#49
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Is the squirter more for controlling temperature or for lubrication. I'm guessing it is for temp reduction, since it is the underside of the piston.
Also am I correct in assuming that you cannot just drill oil holes in the rods becasue that would weaken them? Since the rods have already undergone whatever hardening process they use?
Also am I correct in assuming that you cannot just drill oil holes in the rods becasue that would weaken them? Since the rods have already undergone whatever hardening process they use?
12-31-06, 12:28 PM
#50
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Hey Morris. The squirters supply more then enough for lubrication. but we installed them for the temp control. I believe it will greatly increase the durability of the pistons.
I talked to Pauter, and the rods go through a very simple heat treatment.
The oiling hole is very small, and in an uncommon stress point, I don't really think the rod is any weaker with the hole. Maybe in theory, but I don’t think any have failed due to it.
It’s probably more of an additional machining step that you need to request to get.
The crank probably throws enough oil on the piston to oil the pin, and walls, but Toyota put it there for some reason, and they probably know a little more about motors then I do, so I don't mind admitting that I'll copy them.
Plus they use oil squirters on their performance motors
I talked to Pauter, and the rods go through a very simple heat treatment.
The oiling hole is very small, and in an uncommon stress point, I don't really think the rod is any weaker with the hole. Maybe in theory, but I don’t think any have failed due to it.
It’s probably more of an additional machining step that you need to request to get.
The crank probably throws enough oil on the piston to oil the pin, and walls, but Toyota put it there for some reason, and they probably know a little more about motors then I do, so I don't mind admitting that I'll copy them.
Plus they use oil squirters on their performance motors
01-11-07, 08:30 AM
#53
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Hey guys, Well the motor is back together for the 3rd time with out ever running. Finally made up my mind "I guess LOL"
Anyway, I have a couple photos of the 6-Speed clutch bolted on the car. I think Chrisman had posted a few of these before, but that was the set photos. These are the real thing ready to go.
The Adpter ring for the Getrag needed to be clearenced for the starter, so that should take a couple days.
Hope you like it.
Again this Clutch uses the Auto Flex plate for the starter ring gear. this allows QM to achive a lower MOI.
This is a dual disc sintered bronze clutch with each disc holding around 400 ftlbs of torque. it can come in a 3 disc , and full carbon carbon also.
Anyway, I have a couple photos of the 6-Speed clutch bolted on the car. I think Chrisman had posted a few of these before, but that was the set photos. These are the real thing ready to go.
The Adpter ring for the Getrag needed to be clearenced for the starter, so that should take a couple days.
Hope you like it.
Again this Clutch uses the Auto Flex plate for the starter ring gear. this allows QM to achive a lower MOI.
This is a dual disc sintered bronze clutch with each disc holding around 400 ftlbs of torque. it can come in a 3 disc , and full carbon carbon also.
01-11-07, 11:33 AM
#54
Actually I'm not sure about the Getrag. Chris is 100% mindset on putting it in, and it sounds supercool to have a twin turbo 6-speed SC400, but the reality is that a 3800Lbs? car with 500 HP to the wheels, the drag radials were hanging on for dear life under anyperformance driving. If you got on it, it simple turned them into smoke.
A maunal is only going to amplify this. the stock gear isn't correct for the getrag, and although I'm sure it would be a blast, I think it will make the car much more "racecar" and I don't know if thats what I'm looking for right now.
A maunal is only going to amplify this. the stock gear isn't correct for the getrag, and although I'm sure it would be a blast, I think it will make the car much more "racecar" and I don't know if thats what I'm looking for right now.
Definitely understood...I agree, the SC starts becoming more and more of a race car...That is why I stopped my work on the V160 swap for mine, and went with a BoostLogic built Auto for mine...I should have it back in a few weeks. I was imagining driving on the frequent stop-n-go Interstate traffic with a 6-speed mated to a triple plate clutch, and how "un-fun" that would become...Plus, the cost of just the clutch from between 4k to 6k was not very palatable as well....
With the clutch installation pics of the previous post, I thought a reply regarding the quoted posts above was necessary.
I have a +700hp/600ft-lb torque sc300 with a Tilton clutch, and I would like dispell the myth that the Tilton (insert multi-disk clutch of choice here) is "on-off".
I could drive my car everyday in stop-and-go traffic if needed. When properly installed, the Tilton is just a little more challenging than stock to drive not due to pedal pressure but mainly due to clutch disk engagement. Is the engagement shorter?... Yes. Does it rattle?... Yes, if the RPMs drop below about 800rpm. Is it pricey?... Yes, but I paid well less than $4k for a new Tilton, and the investment was well worth the price.
The clutch is simply a work of art and engineering. Combined with the 12lb flywheel, the driveability is awesome and the response of the motor is much better than with the OEM TT FW. Additionally, I've dumped the clutch at 6000k RPMs doing burnouts and launching off the line, and it doesn't even blink under the stress.
If you buy a Tilton or any high-quality multidisk clutch, it's not nearly as hard to drive as most think.
BTW, I am not a spokesman for Tilton - just a satisfied customer.
-scott
P.S. Nice build-up! I'm very impressed with your efforts!
Last edited by motorheaddown; 01-11-07 at 01:43 PM.
01-12-07, 09:21 AM
#55
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Thanks Scott!!!
And as you quoted me earlier, yes Chrisman won the discussion of the 6-speed vs the auto (Which is the right choice) Right? LOL
I have a QM 7.5" clutch on a corolla, and agree that they scare you about the clutch more then they should.
You should have seen the hoops I had to jump through just to purchase it.
I was worried about this cars weight over the corollas light weight, but thanks, you made me feel much better about it.
And as you quoted me earlier, yes Chrisman won the discussion of the 6-speed vs the auto (Which is the right choice) Right? LOL
I have a QM 7.5" clutch on a corolla, and agree that they scare you about the clutch more then they should.
You should have seen the hoops I had to jump through just to purchase it.
I was worried about this cars weight over the corollas light weight, but thanks, you made me feel much better about it.
01-12-07, 09:26 AM
#56
Thanks Scott!!!
And as you quoted me earlier, yes Chrisman won the discussion of the 6-speed vs the auto (Which is the right choice) Right? LOL
I have a QM 7.5" clutch on a corolla, and agree that they scare you about the clutch more then they should.
You should have seen the hoops I had to jump through just to purchase it.
I was worried about this cars weight over the corollas light weight, but thanks, you made me feel much better about it.
And as you quoted me earlier, yes Chrisman won the discussion of the 6-speed vs the auto (Which is the right choice) Right? LOL
I have a QM 7.5" clutch on a corolla, and agree that they scare you about the clutch more then they should.
You should have seen the hoops I had to jump through just to purchase it.
I was worried about this cars weight over the corollas light weight, but thanks, you made me feel much better about it.
) I'm not a spokesman for RLTC, but it's saved my butt more than once, and it's really fun beating up on Vipers from a roll with OEM 16" rims and stock tires. 
-scott
01-16-07, 10:25 AM
#57
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Hey Guys, Chris & I got the Transmission mated up to the motor last night.
it was actually a pain.
Taking it out while in the car is going to suck!
Anyway, here are some photos!
Sorry, this photo kept coming out blurry. it kind of hard to take a picture inside the bell housing.
This is a photo of the clutch, and throw out bearing.
it was actually a pain.
Taking it out while in the car is going to suck!
Anyway, here are some photos!
Sorry, this photo kept coming out blurry. it kind of hard to take a picture inside the bell housing.
This is a photo of the clutch, and throw out bearing.
01-16-07, 02:07 PM
#58
Lexus Test Driver
Awesome writeup!
This project is what everyone else WANTS to do!
Including me...
It's really not that expensive to get a flywheel redrilled like yours is it? It seems like I've heard that it's fairly cheap to have it done-- they just need the specs right?
What all is involved in using the auto flex-plate and the TT flywheel together? And it seemed like you stated that it was a better option for "QM and MOI"--- Why is that if you don't mind me asking? Do you just mean that the motor will get the flywheel turning more quickly due to lighter weight, or that the extra weight will smooth the powerband?
This project is what everyone else WANTS to do!
Including me...
It's really not that expensive to get a flywheel redrilled like yours is it? It seems like I've heard that it's fairly cheap to have it done-- they just need the specs right?
What all is involved in using the auto flex-plate and the TT flywheel together? And it seemed like you stated that it was a better option for "QM and MOI"--- Why is that if you don't mind me asking? Do you just mean that the motor will get the flywheel turning more quickly due to lighter weight, or that the extra weight will smooth the powerband?
01-16-07, 08:16 PM
#59
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Hey MJHSC400. Thanks!
QM is Quarter Master. This is the company who made the flywheel, clutches, and pressure plate.
Quarter Master makes most of the clutches for NASCAR, and lots of other big race teams. I believe IRL, and Formula 1
they can use the same clutch for multiple applications. We brought them the back of a 1UZ crank, and they now can make a flywheel to fit it. but making a starter ring gear, and overall diameter would make the clutch more difficult to build, and cost more.
They don't take another flywheel, and redrill it, they make the button style flywheel in house.
by using the auto flex plate behind the flywheel we no longer have the problem of the ring gear.
This entire unit Flywheel, Clutches, & Pressure Plate weigh less then the stock TT Flywheel.
MOI is Moment Of Inertia. this is a measurement of what it takes to rotate. Less weight makes the motor rev faster, but placing the weight closer to the center also make it rev quicker. so if you have 2 flywheels of the same weight, the smaller diameter one will rev quicker.
not having a ring gear can help make this clutch smaller.
A twin disc clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate cost around $1100 I believe, and has a torque capacity of 400 ft-lbs per disc, or 800 ft-lbs for the dual disc.
QM is Quarter Master. This is the company who made the flywheel, clutches, and pressure plate.
Quarter Master makes most of the clutches for NASCAR, and lots of other big race teams. I believe IRL, and Formula 1
they can use the same clutch for multiple applications. We brought them the back of a 1UZ crank, and they now can make a flywheel to fit it. but making a starter ring gear, and overall diameter would make the clutch more difficult to build, and cost more.
They don't take another flywheel, and redrill it, they make the button style flywheel in house.
by using the auto flex plate behind the flywheel we no longer have the problem of the ring gear.
This entire unit Flywheel, Clutches, & Pressure Plate weigh less then the stock TT Flywheel.
MOI is Moment Of Inertia. this is a measurement of what it takes to rotate. Less weight makes the motor rev faster, but placing the weight closer to the center also make it rev quicker. so if you have 2 flywheels of the same weight, the smaller diameter one will rev quicker.
not having a ring gear can help make this clutch smaller.
A twin disc clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate cost around $1100 I believe, and has a torque capacity of 400 ft-lbs per disc, or 800 ft-lbs for the dual disc.
01-17-07, 07:38 AM
#60
Lexus Test Driver
Thanks for the info--
I bet I can get a 7m flywheel and hd clutch + R154 with a modded tail section to work by getting a shop to weld and redrill the 7m flywheel--- BUT-- It seems like a better fitment option using the flex plate and custom flywheel-- Seems reasonable too-- I wonder how much they would charge to build a flywheel to work with a R154? Or would this one work with it?
I doubt I would need a dual disc-- so a standard h/d clutch would work fine with an n/a setup-- the manual swap is what I'm interested in for starters--
I bet I can get a 7m flywheel and hd clutch + R154 with a modded tail section to work by getting a shop to weld and redrill the 7m flywheel--- BUT-- It seems like a better fitment option using the flex plate and custom flywheel-- Seems reasonable too-- I wonder how much they would charge to build a flywheel to work with a R154? Or would this one work with it?
I doubt I would need a dual disc-- so a standard h/d clutch would work fine with an n/a setup-- the manual swap is what I'm interested in for starters--