TT 1UZ Rebuild
09-25-05, 08:54 AM
#16
Driver
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Illinois
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sc400t--i actually never measured the pistons--i sent the block and pistons to a buddy.. he had the machine work done in 2 days,, it was rdm who told me .020--so i assumed it was what he had told me..
we got the crank in yesterday--it is a nice heavy forged piece,, and you should place it in the block with 2 people..one thing also--the thrust bearing on these engines are "individual".. in other words,, they are seperate from the main bearings,, and should be carefully placed before you position the crank,, because they may move on you....we took some pictures to help explain..
the crank was just cleaned--not even polished.. it was also in tip top shape..
i know im gonna get alot of $^#$ for this,, but we decided to reuse the toyota bearings that were in the engine..
its not that rdm is cheap or didnt want new ones,, its the fact that i like the bearings that toyota makes,they were in great shape, and they were originally individually fitted to the engine at the factory.. you will notice on the engine-stampings all over..these are stamped onto the block when they measure and assemble everything originally.. when you replace the bearings,, you will probably need to seek these out at your lexus dealer,, that is unless the crank needs to get cut in which case you will need to get aftermarket bearings..
and one of the main reasons for my decision-- like i had stated before--LOOSEness--or being on the high side of the clearances makes for a loose motor which IMO make a bit more HP..
but being LOOSE on a street motor in which you want to use alot is not really a good idea..
anyway,, il get rdm to post pics tomorow--today we should have the shortblock assembled..
i keep remembering stuff after i post,, so these post may seem a little scattered--but its worth noting that there are 2 different head gaskets--one right and one left--make sure you use the correct one where it belongs.. and,, the oem pistons are also L-left and R-right.. the after market ones we have can be used on either side-but there is a forward and back because of the valve relifs.. im guessing toyota/lexus has a R/L because they may have offset pins.. i think OEMS do this to help keep the pistons quite--but i could be wrong..
ps,, we happen to have "file to fit piston rings"--ARGH
,,, these take forever,, and patience is very important in this part of the "rebuild-freshening up"..always check and recheck during assemly..
we got the crank in yesterday--it is a nice heavy forged piece,, and you should place it in the block with 2 people..one thing also--the thrust bearing on these engines are "individual".. in other words,, they are seperate from the main bearings,, and should be carefully placed before you position the crank,, because they may move on you....we took some pictures to help explain..
the crank was just cleaned--not even polished.. it was also in tip top shape..
i know im gonna get alot of $^#$ for this,, but we decided to reuse the toyota bearings that were in the engine..
its not that rdm is cheap or didnt want new ones,, its the fact that i like the bearings that toyota makes,they were in great shape, and they were originally individually fitted to the engine at the factory.. you will notice on the engine-stampings all over..these are stamped onto the block when they measure and assemble everything originally.. when you replace the bearings,, you will probably need to seek these out at your lexus dealer,, that is unless the crank needs to get cut in which case you will need to get aftermarket bearings..and one of the main reasons for my decision-- like i had stated before--LOOSEness--or being on the high side of the clearances makes for a loose motor which IMO make a bit more HP..
but being LOOSE on a street motor in which you want to use alot is not really a good idea..
anyway,, il get rdm to post pics tomorow--today we should have the shortblock assembled..
i keep remembering stuff after i post,, so these post may seem a little scattered--but its worth noting that there are 2 different head gaskets--one right and one left--make sure you use the correct one where it belongs.. and,, the oem pistons are also L-left and R-right.. the after market ones we have can be used on either side-but there is a forward and back because of the valve relifs.. im guessing toyota/lexus has a R/L because they may have offset pins.. i think OEMS do this to help keep the pistons quite--but i could be wrong..
ps,, we happen to have "file to fit piston rings"--ARGH
,,, these take forever,, and patience is very important in this part of the "rebuild-freshening up"..always check and recheck during assemly..
Last edited by chrisman; 09-25-05 at 06:03 PM.
09-26-05, 07:47 AM
#22
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
The Corect way to Torque the mains (With a large Pipe)
JK!!! If I remember correctly, but double check, it was 18 FtLbs, and then an additional 90 degrees
Who is that Sexxy guy in the Rolling rock T-Shirt any way!
JK!!! If I remember correctly, but double check, it was 18 FtLbs, and then an additional 90 degrees
Who is that Sexxy guy in the Rolling rock T-Shirt any way!
09-26-05, 08:48 AM
#29
Driver
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Illinois
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rdm--im gonna kill you.. yep--= thats me getting the spiral locks in the pistons.. this also takes some time.. each piston has 4,, and they take a little "ambidextarity" JK,, remember,, that the rods go in a certain way-- with the oil squirt hole facing the oposite side.. and never mix up the caps...and keep them in order.. the rods do have markings on them,,letters where the cap and rod split,, so you can match them-but they are not numbered, position wise-but dont tempt fate,, and keep yourself and parts organized..
oh yea,, a few pics back rdm stated that the rods barely fit--hes totally right,, they are so beefy, that they barely fit in the bore.. i bet if toyota made them any bigger,, they wouldnt fit..
a pleasent suprise,, and makes me feel better about the rods handling some power..
oh yea,, a few pics back rdm stated that the rods barely fit--hes totally right,, they are so beefy, that they barely fit in the bore.. i bet if toyota made them any bigger,, they wouldnt fit..
a pleasent suprise,, and makes me feel better about the rods handling some power..
Last edited by chrisman; 09-26-05 at 08:57 AM.
09-26-05, 09:10 AM
#30
Driver
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Illinois
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
has anybody ever weighed or know what the original pistons weigh? the new ross pistons were 363 grams..- im a little curious, thats why i ask,..
also,, ive seen guys intall piston rings a thousand times by " winding" them onto the pistons.. i would highly recomend not doing this.. get a ring instalation tool.. it slightly spreads the rings open, enough to get them on,, and thats it.. IMO,, when you wind them onto the pistons,, they may take a "set" and have a kinda twist to them.. that twist doesnt need to be there..its kinda like when you were a kid and made funny faces--your mother would say-"dont do that, your face is gonna stay like that"
im saying the same thing,, "dont install your rings like that, there gonna stay like that"
also,, ive seen guys intall piston rings a thousand times by " winding" them onto the pistons.. i would highly recomend not doing this.. get a ring instalation tool.. it slightly spreads the rings open, enough to get them on,, and thats it.. IMO,, when you wind them onto the pistons,, they may take a "set" and have a kinda twist to them.. that twist doesnt need to be there..its kinda like when you were a kid and made funny faces--your mother would say-"dont do that, your face is gonna stay like that"
im saying the same thing,, "dont install your rings like that, there gonna stay like that"