fried_rice

iTrader: (20)

Metric 3.5x23
Inner Diameter- 23mm or 0.905"
Outer Diameter- 30mm or 1.18"
Thickness- 3.5mm or 0.13"

It's easiest to bring the oring with you if you can.

skytechja

hey guys...

though this is the SC forum it applies to all that have the 2jz-ge engine ....
firstly i drive a 1st gen gs300

anyways.... yall engines look CLEAN compared to mine... lol
and my distributor o-ring is leaking like hell n i really will not be buying a new alternator... lol

so im trying to understand all what is being said here and the different procedures nad what to mark......

but let me say this..... my timimg is out from the car is bought!!!
idles rough until warm n sometimes even when warm and at the stop light... it odles like i have some serious cam timing going one... (i know for a fact it isnt the computer)

so i was watching the following video on youtube


what yall think about getting back timimng....

i changed timing belt the other day and made sure the crack pulley was aligned to the 0 mark on the cover and my cam-gears were aligned via the marks... (according to the vido... it should be TDC when those are aligned)

so my next challenge is to change my distributor o-ring n ensure that my ignition timing is set...

please not e i do not have a ingition timing light...

what ayall think of the video by the way and also following waht has already been posted by memeber on what to mark

RUSSIAN300

Okay ide like to thank everyone who participated in this thread, this was the best set of instructions I've ever come across, for R&R on a GE distributor body without having to re-time the entire engine. As someone who has very little time outside of work hours to do any kind of work on cars, let alone work that would be involved more then just remove and replace, I'm looking info just like this on CL when something goes wrong of maintenance has to be done to keep my beloved SC300 running well. I Gotta say the task looked alot more dunting then it's was, it took me longer to get prepared and started, once I did it only took about 30 min to do it all. I wasn't just replacing an oil seal, bit rather the whole unit, since she was letting oil through the middle of of the housing, just line the new part same as the one that failed, put the same marks in all the same places according to instructions, everything line up and aside from me forgetting to transfer the heat shield, (all done now) she fired right up, So a big thanks once again to all that pitched in!

RUSSIAN300

I found an Original factory unit for 213+ Tax and shipping vs. 325 at the local dealer, through McGregor Toyota in Richmond Virginia by typing in the part number into the ol Google, the only one that beat that price was some site I wasn't too sure about and the unit was supposedly​ would be coming from EAD for 167+ shipping