Distributor O-ring Replacement Write Up
04-18-09, 04:48 PM
#33
Pole Position
I hate to bring this back from the dead, but this is some serious stuff that every owner that has at the min 80k miles should check out. If oil leaks out of the distributor, it leaks directly on your alternator and will ruin it. This o ring is less than $10, but a new alt from Lexus is over $300 and a reman runs between $140-$160 (w/core) depending on where you go.
02-06-10, 12:24 AM
#34
This thread was very helpful when I replaced the O-ring on my SC300 (1995).
Here are some more pics to help others when attempting this repair.
After removal of distributor cap:
Side view:
Leaking oil will drip on the alternator and ultimately ruin it
:
Close up of leakage (the alternator broke a few days after and I had to replace it
):
My rotor was worn also:
As per instruction, position is marked before disassembly:
Top view:
Also note the position of this 12mm nut(mark not shown in the pic):
As the distributor unit slide out, it rotates counter-clockwise.
Worn O-ring:
Of course, don't forget to replace the O-ring with a new one!
To put everything back, just reverse the process and you're done! Thank you Club Lexus again for a informative thread.
Here are some more pics to help others when attempting this repair. After removal of distributor cap:
Side view:
Leaking oil will drip on the alternator and ultimately ruin it
:Close up of leakage (the alternator broke a few days after and I had to replace it
):My rotor was worn also
:As per instruction, position is marked before disassembly:
Top view:
Also note the position of this 12mm nut(mark not shown in the pic):
As the distributor unit slide out, it rotates counter-clockwise.
Worn O-ring:
Of course, don't forget to replace the O-ring with a new one!
To put everything back, just reverse the process and you're done! Thank you Club Lexus again for a informative thread.
Last edited by uras300; 10-07-10 at 02:15 PM.
10-05-10, 08:18 PM
#37
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Hello from a new member (1st post!)...
I registered for this forum mostly because we're thinking of selling our SC in the near future and some local (South FL) friends told us to get on here and advertise... I used to be very active in the aftermarket/tuner world, but haven't been in a few years...
Aaaaanyway, the alternator crapped out on our SC last night, so after rescuing my fiance on the side of the road, I started the replacement of the alternator. I initially thought the VC gasket was leaking, but closer inspection confirmed it was this same o-ring. So, I'll be doing this in addition tomorrow when I pick up the new alternator.
Much thanks to all of you for the help, pictures, and also to the search button, that allowed me to find and revive this thread from the dead!
I'll be posting more often around here now...
I registered for this forum mostly because we're thinking of selling our SC in the near future and some local (South FL) friends told us to get on here and advertise... I used to be very active in the aftermarket/tuner world, but haven't been in a few years...
Aaaaanyway, the alternator crapped out on our SC last night, so after rescuing my fiance on the side of the road, I started the replacement of the alternator. I initially thought the VC gasket was leaking, but closer inspection confirmed it was this same o-ring. So, I'll be doing this in addition tomorrow when I pick up the new alternator.
Much thanks to all of you for the help, pictures, and also to the search button, that allowed me to find and revive this thread from the dead!
I'll be posting more often around here now...
04-11-11, 12:43 PM
#39
OK all is good with my car Now, Big Thankx to T0ked & deruvian for all there help, O Yeah And ALLDATA & my Good Friend Cory .
So If any of you did not have the opportunity to mark there dizzy prior to removal. Don't Trip, there is HOPE.!!
1) Disconnect Distributor Connector
2) Disconnect high-tension cords (Wires) from Distributor
3) Remove the Oil Cap
4) Look through the OilFill Hole and turn the Crankshaft Clockwise until the Cam Nose can be seen.
5)Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise approximately 120Deg.
6)Turn the crankshaft again clockwise approximately 10-40 Deg so that the timing belt cover TDC mark and the crankshaft pulley TDC mark are aligned.
7) Remove the Distributor housing, remove nut.
8) pull out the Distributor and remove the old O-ring, install new Distributor o-ring and lightly coat with Oil.
9)Align the Groove of the Distributor housing with the protrusion on the drive gear.
10) Install the Distributor, aligning the center of the flange with that of the stud bolt and the cylinder head. After that put it all back together and you Done.
for all there help, O Yeah And ALLDATA & my Good Friend Cory . So If any of you did not have the opportunity to mark there dizzy prior to removal. Don't Trip, there is HOPE.!!
1) Disconnect Distributor Connector
2) Disconnect high-tension cords (Wires) from Distributor
3) Remove the Oil Cap
4) Look through the OilFill Hole and turn the Crankshaft Clockwise until the Cam Nose can be seen.
5)Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise approximately 120Deg.
6)Turn the crankshaft again clockwise approximately 10-40 Deg so that the timing belt cover TDC mark and the crankshaft pulley TDC mark are aligned.
7) Remove the Distributor housing, remove nut.
8) pull out the Distributor and remove the old O-ring, install new Distributor o-ring and lightly coat with Oil.
9)Align the Groove of the Distributor housing with the protrusion on the drive gear.
10) Install the Distributor, aligning the center of the flange with that of the stud bolt and the cylinder head. After that put it all back together and you Done.
Good Info here as always, this is exactly what I was looking for..
10-27-12, 10:37 PM
#42
Thanks for the heads up with this post. My heatshield/oil catch was filthy!
Because there's no gasket, how about widening the drain hole, use an applicable size tubing with grommet, and route the the tube to allow the overflow to go onto the splash guard? Sort of a backup to a faulty 0-ring.
Because there's no gasket, how about widening the drain hole, use an applicable size tubing with grommet, and route the the tube to allow the overflow to go onto the splash guard? Sort of a backup to a faulty 0-ring.
11-17-12, 07:23 PM
#43
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I just successfully replaced the O ring and rotor, took it out for a nice 30 mile drive , came back and checked for oil leaking, and to my disappointment it is still leaking oil on my alternator, has any of you encountered that problem , I know i got the correct size O ring , wut else do you guys think it could be?
thanks
thanks
11-17-12, 08:41 PM
#44
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Gonna do this ASAP! Thanks for the info. My Nissan has the same type of distributor and we always set engine to TDC on compression stroke. Then when putting back we know that the rotor will point to the #1 cylinder. But to be honest this way is easier. Good write up! I hate not knowing what to do when it comes to the timing of an engine!
