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DIY: A/C compressor removal and installation

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Old 07-15-05, 05:30 PM   #1
O. L. T.
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Default DIY: A/C compressor removal and installation

Well, I could have paid someone to do this for me, but I figured I'd better DIY so I could share pics and info for anyone wanting to do this. (the things I do for you)

So here's a short writeup with pics.

1- remove the battery and tray
2- remove the main belt from the engine by loosening the tensioner.
3- disconnect the main A/C electrical harness and 2 coolant lines
4- go under the car and remove the ground wire bolt and harness
5- (optional) remove the oil filter (you'll thank me later when you go to remove the lower bolt)
6- remove the 3 bolts that hold the compressor in. I prefer to do it from the top front, then top back, then bottom.
7- slide the A/C compressor forward and rotate it for best maneuverability while pulling it out the top of the engine bay.

*Note- there is a small "z" bracket on the ground cable bolt that connects it to the compressor. Make sure you re-install it.

Reverse the directions for re-installation.








Last edited by O. L. T.; 07-15-05 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 07-15-05, 05:32 PM   #2
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Old 07-15-05, 05:33 PM   #3
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This is for an SC400, but hopefully the 300 will not differ much, or any.
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Old 07-15-05, 09:23 PM   #4
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Nice writeup, but please dont tell me I see a Fram oil filter in there? For shame OLT, for shame haha
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Old 07-15-05, 09:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by /Aerostar\
Nice writeup, but please dont tell me I see a Fram oil filter in there? For shame OLT, for shame haha
Yup I did this on my hooptie. It's just used for testing nowadays. It logged 45 miles in the last 5 months I drive my sandstone one as a daily.
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Old 07-15-05, 09:25 PM   #6
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wats wrong with fram?
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Old 07-15-05, 09:34 PM   #7
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looks like u missed the part of evac the system.
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Old 07-15-05, 10:21 PM   #8
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Nothing had to be done other than what I posted.
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Old 07-16-05, 12:09 PM   #9
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So you just charged it up with some r134a and it's been good as new since?

On my SC3 I can't pressurize the a/c system as much as it should be since by doing that the a/c compressor just engages and then disengages every 10-20sec.

The other thing I've noticed is after a drive at a high rpm for 1-2 min (5000+) or a drive at 85 for awhile I'll smell a burning inside my engine, already replaced the waterpump so I think the compressor clutch/compressor itself has to do with that. What caused you to replace yours, just loss of r134a?
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Old 07-16-05, 12:51 PM   #10
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Whats the seceret to getting to the rear upper bolt? My cars been apart for ever because I can't get the AC compressor off to change the water pump.

I boght a 14mm (built-in) universal socket, but have not had time to use it. I can't seem to get a socket up there. Are you accessing from the top or bottom?
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Old 07-16-05, 01:05 PM   #11
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Do you have a 400 or 300, because on the 300 you don't have to take off the a/c compressor to get to the waterpump.
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Old 07-16-05, 02:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMaxxTim
So you just charged it up with some r134a and it's been good as new since?

On my SC3 I can't pressurize the a/c system as much as it should be since by doing that the a/c compressor just engages and then disengages every 10-20sec.

The other thing I've noticed is after a drive at a high rpm for 1-2 min (5000+) or a drive at 85 for awhile I'll smell a burning inside my engine, already replaced the waterpump so I think the compressor clutch/compressor itself has to do with that. What caused you to replace yours, just loss of r134a?
No way dude. I can't stand 134. Doesn't blow cold enough. I use only good old ice cold r12 freon. $65 a pound and worth every dime. I just had all 5 cars charged up with 3 lbs per car...... guess what that cost.

My local Maxi muffler charges r12 systems
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Old 07-16-05, 02:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaSC
Whats the seceret to getting to the rear upper bolt? My cars been apart for ever because I can't get the AC compressor off to change the water pump.

I boght a 14mm (built-in) universal socket, but have not had time to use it. I can't seem to get a socket up there. Are you accessing from the top or bottom?
This should be good avice on both the 300 and 400. If you have a 4 inch extension it will get in there, but not bump the frame on the ratchet end.
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Old 07-16-05, 05:20 PM   #14
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OLT - if you get an under-engine pan your whole engine bay will stay much cleaner - IMHO.
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Old 07-16-05, 06:04 PM   #15
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Doesn't look much like the 300. Good thing you didn't get it from me.
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