cylinder #6 trouble
#1
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cylinder #6 trouble
Does anyone know if cyl #6 is notorious for trouble? I did a compression test on my 2jz-ge this weekend in preps for a turbo kit. All my cylinders gave me a reading of 210# except #6 which was much lower. I put a little oil in that cylinder to see if it was the valves or piston/rings. It then read 210# like the others. So I guess it is the piston/ring (hopefully the cylinder wall is ok). Looks like repairs are required.
I know the EGR valve comes off the exhaust from that cylinder thus making it run slightly leaner. I didn't think this was a problem for NA cars though. All my sparkplugs were white though. I am going to clean my fuel system and hopefully things will run less lean.
My engine has 130000 miles, this might be a bit much for a turbo system, anyone think so?
I might block the EGR valve somehow too.
Getting to those two middle plugs is a real pain! Damn intake plenum.
1JZ might be the way to go after all.
I know the EGR valve comes off the exhaust from that cylinder thus making it run slightly leaner. I didn't think this was a problem for NA cars though. All my sparkplugs were white though. I am going to clean my fuel system and hopefully things will run less lean.
My engine has 130000 miles, this might be a bit much for a turbo system, anyone think so?
I might block the EGR valve somehow too.
Getting to those two middle plugs is a real pain! Damn intake plenum.
1JZ might be the way to go after all.
#2
there seems to be no specific cut-off for when a GE can't handle NA-T, but rather it depends largly on the health of the engine.
the EGR system can be removed simply using a two block-off plates ($20-30), and a single 10k ohm 1/2 watt resistor (a pack of 4 @ radioshack is 99 cents)
you could go 1JZ, but another viable option to just putting in another GE -- they're rediculously cheap because they never die, hence no demand for them.
Compression numbers all up around 210 sounds odd -- the factory specs call for the numbers to be around 160 (IIRC). Was the engine warm when you did this?
Regarless, the actual numbers will be helpful (if you have them) and also, a search on Supraforums will turn up tons of good info.
John
the EGR system can be removed simply using a two block-off plates ($20-30), and a single 10k ohm 1/2 watt resistor (a pack of 4 @ radioshack is 99 cents)
you could go 1JZ, but another viable option to just putting in another GE -- they're rediculously cheap because they never die, hence no demand for them.
Compression numbers all up around 210 sounds odd -- the factory specs call for the numbers to be around 160 (IIRC). Was the engine warm when you did this?
Regarless, the actual numbers will be helpful (if you have them) and also, a search on Supraforums will turn up tons of good info.
John
#3
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Alex, I didn't know you were going turbo my man? Sounds cool. I had an issue with that same damn cylinder but found out it was because I had a fouled plug in that location. It was chipped and not functioning properly. I too am dealing with EGR issues...damnit
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i have found that the # 5-6 injectors tend to clog up more than the others not sure why but it happened to me before and the egr will deffinatly help out. ive seen ppl turbo engine with more miles than that and run fine. like said before it depends on how well the engine was taken care of.
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