2.5tsoarer

iTrader: (3)

I have the typical not tach, hot temp, airbag light on all the time. plus I have a slight sputter at high rpm right before the tranny shifts, and sometimes around corners.
I know the tach works with MSD tach adapter.
as for the temp gauge I tried 330ohm and it was too much , the needle barely moved.
also tried the 220 ohm and same thing happend.
then tied 100 ohm and it wasnt enough.
If someone with stock engine could tell us voltage this would help.
I sold my 2jz so I can swap out temp sensor to rule that out.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

tell me where I can measure the voltage for the water temp and I'll tell you

i'll measure cold voltage and warmed-up voltage and we can prolly draw a pretty decent curve there

I'd assume you need a 150 ohm resistor or something thereabouts...

2.5tsoarer

iTrader: (3)

yeah I have to goto radio shack and see what they have in between

kaotiq

I had a RPM read failure due to a faulty crank pulley. That was about it. It was a hard diagnostic for a while.

groovinSc3

my rpm doesnt work and my oil light stays on. i have no clue why the oil light stays on.

2.5tsoarer

iTrader: (3)

what about your water temp

ki_soarer

mteele has the oil and air bag lights on... (AB light on non stop!) and no tack or temp gauge. let us know what you find out. thanks.

mteele

iTrader: (5)

What he said

It also sounds like I may be misfiring some, at idle atleast. I need to pull the sparkplugs. The NGK 3330's drop right in, correct? If its not plugs, could be the damn knock sensor, but i extended it with shielded USB cable....

mteele

iTrader: (5)

Oh, I also already have a tach adapter ordered: MSD-8920 MSD Magnetic Pickup Tach Adapter

CleanSC

2JZ-GE Water Temperature Sensor Outputs

All temps in F.

-4F = 15k ohms.
32F = 5k ohms
68F = 2k ohms
104F = 1k ohms
140F = 500 ohms
176F = 200 ohms
212F = 100 ohms

mteele

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info Jose!!!

Now someone figure out how to use it

Bean

iTrader: (1)

easy... you find the same data for the 1jz-gte soarer variation (which its possibly the same as all 1jzs)

in fact, if you can find a way to measure it on your own car; if you start it up and check the resistance we should be able to get an accurate conversion

so far as tach and other dash problems, i wanted to make sure everyone saw this

http://www.jzgte.com/tech/1jzgte/1JZAnalogGauges.pdf

the key to the tach, is since tach signals are pretty universal, a I6 gives the same signal as a I6 with the same cam configuration... we need to find out where the 2jz-ge gets its tach signal from, and where the 1jz-gte gets its signal from... because some ECUs have a "tach" output feature... whereas I distinctly remember when wiring my AFC on the 2jz-ge that I hooked up to the IG1 wire instead and used that...

one car has a coil-on-plug configuration, the other uses a distributor...

does the tach not work at all? or does it just give a crazy reading?

http://www.jzgte.com/images/tech/1jzecu_diagram.gif
shows the ignition junk being over on the X-plug....
17 is the RPM1 pin and I BET YOU that the dash gets its signal from this; anyone wanna trace a wire?
someone could TRY to get the signal from #23 which is RPM2 and IGT1 just to see if it works that way...

can also find park-safety switch here for auto-ecus

mteele

iTrader: (5)

Bean, I'm to tired to even think about responding to your whole post. But the tach doesnt work at all. But I ordered that tach adapter today from summit racing, so once i get it in i can see if it works.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

hope it works too i still would rather just rewire stuff than spend more money... would be nice to have the info out there for people on a budget

mteele

iTrader: (5)

For less than $50, I think its worth the price. I've spent enough doing this, whats another $50....lol