Seafoam experts, check in here.
#62
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This reminds me of the old ATF trick
Remember, for those putting it in the gas tank, it will lower the octane a tad. If you're forced induction, make sure to take it easy on the drive.
Personally, I always run Marvel Mystery Oil "MMO" in the gas tank
Remember, for those putting it in the gas tank, it will lower the octane a tad. If you're forced induction, make sure to take it easy on the drive.
Personally, I always run Marvel Mystery Oil "MMO" in the gas tank
#64
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If I were to put Seafoam in my gas tank how much gas should I have when I do it and do I need to change anything after I put it in there and how much of it do I use in the gas tank. This is for the gas tank only. Ive used it for my transmission after it almost gave out on me on the freeway about 2 hours away from my house.
I had drained my transmission oil to the max. Without plugging it back up I had poured about a third of Seafoam down the dipstick tube. I watched it all come out from the bottom of the transmission along with some black nasty burn smelling oil that was still in there. I plugged the tranny back up and poured about another third in there and I let it sit for about 30 mins. I drained it again and this time the seafoam was not as dirty as the first time it had come out so that was a good sign. The oil I'd reccomend to fill your auto tranny with is the Valvoline ATF fully synthetic oil for trannys over 75,000 miles. I had smoother shifts without ever flushing it.
I had drained my transmission oil to the max. Without plugging it back up I had poured about a third of Seafoam down the dipstick tube. I watched it all come out from the bottom of the transmission along with some black nasty burn smelling oil that was still in there. I plugged the tranny back up and poured about another third in there and I let it sit for about 30 mins. I drained it again and this time the seafoam was not as dirty as the first time it had come out so that was a good sign. The oil I'd reccomend to fill your auto tranny with is the Valvoline ATF fully synthetic oil for trannys over 75,000 miles. I had smoother shifts without ever flushing it.
#65
i think the bottle says like half the bottle for a 20 gallon tank. so with a full tank of gas add whatever ratio of seafoam it says on the bottle to a full tank of gas. you dont want to drain out the oil because you will run into a lack of lubrication. suck some up in a vacuum hose to clean the intake manifold, it will smoke like a banshee, and then like a cup of it to the oil. remember you must change your filter when you add it to the oil. its also smart to replace spark plugs when you run it through the gas. good luck with it. it defn makes a noticeable difference.
#68
Lexus Test Driver
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Some people mentioned hearing about turbo cars and the effects. I Seafoamed my 3000GT Twin Turbo last December with very favorable results and no ill effects. Mitsu's are notorious for lifter tick and it took it completely away. Sucked to pass a brand new EVO 8 right when I used the Seafoam and see the smile on his face as he probably thought my engine had grenaded
#70
if you run seafoam through the gas tank, change the plugs after you run thought the full tank of gas and light comes on.
CAUTION: DO NOT DRIVE WITH SEAFOAM IN YOUR OIL. to run seafoam properly in your oil add however much (about half to a full cup) of seafoam and let the car idle for about 10 minutes. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR or else you may have catostrophic engine failure. after about 10 minutes, let the engine cool a bit so you dont burn yourself. once it reaches a tolerable temp, then change the oil. I suggest running on the new oil for a few days and then change it again about a week later as you will still have varnish buildup being flushed out after you change the oil the first time. i also suggest changing the oil filter again on the second oil change, youll see what i mean when you do it.
CAUTION: DO NOT DRIVE WITH SEAFOAM IN YOUR OIL. to run seafoam properly in your oil add however much (about half to a full cup) of seafoam and let the car idle for about 10 minutes. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR or else you may have catostrophic engine failure. after about 10 minutes, let the engine cool a bit so you dont burn yourself. once it reaches a tolerable temp, then change the oil. I suggest running on the new oil for a few days and then change it again about a week later as you will still have varnish buildup being flushed out after you change the oil the first time. i also suggest changing the oil filter again on the second oil change, youll see what i mean when you do it.
#71
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Any of you guys consider what seafoaming does to the cats and mufflers as far as clogging them up with carbon deposits, as all that crap is run out the exhaust? That is my concern.....Any thoughts on the cats clogging up?
#73
Bought three cans of Seafoam today for use in my '95 SC400 with 121k miles. At the auto parts store I added it to the fuel and oil:
* The label says 1 can (a pint) will treat 8-25 gallons of fuel. I had almost a full tank so I put in an entire can.
* For oil, the label says approx 1.5oz of Seafoam for 1 quart of oil. Not knowing exactly how much oil the 1UZ hold (and being too lazy to look it up in the owner's manual, I put in a little over half a can. Poured in where you pour in oil.
Drove about 20 miles afterwards running errands. When I arrived back home I added some through the brake booster vacuum line.
* For adding Seafoam through the vacuum line, the label suggests 1/3 of a can poured slowly into the brake boost vacuum line while warm engine is running at idle. a couple times I poured in a little much causing the motor to stall - she started right back up, though (albeit with a LOT of smoke!). After approx. 1/3 of the can was gone, I shut her down for around 10 minutes. After 10, started her back up and took her for a 10ish mile drive (gave her a couple Italian tune-ups). By the time I returned home I had noticed quite a difference. The engine revs MUCH faster and more freely. Throttle response is better, especially at low RPMs. Butt-dyno says between a 5-10hp gain.
Is it worth it? Definitely. BUT, my stumble at 1500rpm still exists =( Time to clean out the throttle body!
* The label says 1 can (a pint) will treat 8-25 gallons of fuel. I had almost a full tank so I put in an entire can.
* For oil, the label says approx 1.5oz of Seafoam for 1 quart of oil. Not knowing exactly how much oil the 1UZ hold (and being too lazy to look it up in the owner's manual, I put in a little over half a can. Poured in where you pour in oil.
Drove about 20 miles afterwards running errands. When I arrived back home I added some through the brake booster vacuum line.
* For adding Seafoam through the vacuum line, the label suggests 1/3 of a can poured slowly into the brake boost vacuum line while warm engine is running at idle. a couple times I poured in a little much causing the motor to stall - she started right back up, though (albeit with a LOT of smoke!). After approx. 1/3 of the can was gone, I shut her down for around 10 minutes. After 10, started her back up and took her for a 10ish mile drive (gave her a couple Italian tune-ups). By the time I returned home I had noticed quite a difference. The engine revs MUCH faster and more freely. Throttle response is better, especially at low RPMs. Butt-dyno says between a 5-10hp gain.
Is it worth it? Definitely. BUT, my stumble at 1500rpm still exists =( Time to clean out the throttle body!
#74
Careful: Seafoam can cause Misfire
Hello,
SeaFoam is great stuff but you need to know how to use it.
I use it as part of a two-part fuel injection cleaner. I wouldn't pour directly like directions say.
I pour one can in Fuel tank and half can into intake manifold via a vacuum line w/ small valve and container-actually it's more of a drip system-think of I-V line at a hospital. When adding directly to intake it's possible that all the oil and sludge from the intake and valves can wash onto your spark plugs causing misfire...and possible catalytic converter damage. Make sure your cats aren't glowing red after a hard drive-very bad.With severe misfire ,you may notice rough idle, engine stumble and "check engine"/MIL light FLASHING on late model vehicles with OBDII . Also, lots and lots of white smoke. I recommend changing oil and plugs(if misfiring especially) after you completely burn off the stuff. I drive the car around till the smoke goes away but drive it lightly-no heavy loads to avoid cat damage if misfire is present.
Clear hose and brass valve is available at home depot-plumbing section
Last edited by SC300TT!; 08-20-06 at 06:52 PM.
#75
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There seems to be conflicting information here in regards to the use of Seafoam in the oil:
Vipsoarer states:
"CAUTION: DO NOT DRIVE WITH SEAFOAM IN YOUR OIL. to run seafoam properly in your oil add however much (about half to a full cup) of seafoam and let the car idle for about 10 minutes. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR or else you may have catostrophic engine failure."
Most everyone else seems to be driving it around for a day or so before changing the oil. What is the catastrophic engine failure he speaks of and why would it occur from driving with seafoam in the oil for 20 miles or less lets say?
Also, If I add seafoam through the pcv hose, do I then need to change the oil? Or is the oil change only necessary if I add it directly to where you put in new motor oil?
Thanks, SWB
Vipsoarer states:
"CAUTION: DO NOT DRIVE WITH SEAFOAM IN YOUR OIL. to run seafoam properly in your oil add however much (about half to a full cup) of seafoam and let the car idle for about 10 minutes. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR or else you may have catostrophic engine failure."
Most everyone else seems to be driving it around for a day or so before changing the oil. What is the catastrophic engine failure he speaks of and why would it occur from driving with seafoam in the oil for 20 miles or less lets say?
Also, If I add seafoam through the pcv hose, do I then need to change the oil? Or is the oil change only necessary if I add it directly to where you put in new motor oil?
Thanks, SWB