sumtingwon

So far, thanx to all of u guys for the much helped input. I still have questions for the upgrades on my sc300.

Does reprogramming your ECU really help increase some serious hp? I heard the stage III ECU chip is about close to $500 (that if you have upgraded your exhaust and intake) and its suppose to give an extra 30-35 ponies. Is this true?

Also, if i clean out the catalytic converter (take out the mesh inside of it) would this increase air flow? I heard some guy saying that this will not help. Cause there is no pressure thus the car actually loses power? Other guys say that this is an alternative to buying a new greddy exhaust system.

What takes place when u push that button for power/normal on our sc3/4? When the power is on, i can see an enormous rev/power.

And lastly, i dont know why but i have stupidly manage to buy this resistor that is suppose to increase some hp too. Here is the description on how to install it.....Give me some feed back to see if this is a hoax.


Looks to me this is just a resistor.


Performance Upgrade Modification Instructions


These instructions are generic to most vehicles, You may have to do some searching to find your IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sending unit is located. It is usually located in the Air Intake Tube (where the air flows into your engine) or it may be located in the intake manifold, or right around your throttle body. It should be a connector /plug with two small wires going to it, and a clip on the side of the plug.



BEFORE PROCEEDING BE SURE TO DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY! THIS IS A MUST!!

1. Locate IAT Sensor plug
2. If it has more then 2 wires, thats not it
3. Unplug IAT sensor by lifting up the tab on the side of the plug and pulling the plug off.
4. Take one Mod supplied and gently bend into a U shape (should already of been done)
5. Put the two wire ends of the MOD into the two open holes located on the IAT plug. (The end
with the wires) One wire into each hole. Gently push it all the way down, but dont force it. Some people
snip the ends of the wire in the MOD a little shorter if it sticks up more then you like
6. Leave plug disconnected, and cover MOD and plug with electrical tape to protect it from the elements. Secure the loose plug with the MOD so it doesnt flop around or get into the fan.
7. Reconnect Battery

I have seen people mention the use of Premium Fuel but it is not Required
Use this at your own risk, I cannot be held responsible for anything you do with this kit, this has been tested and will 100% NOT harm your vehicle or the vehicles computer.

Your "check engine" light may come on, but shouldnt with this new version. If it does double check to make sure the MOD is securely fit.

Thanx,
md

SCV8

That "kit" sounds like a description of a GM vehicle to me; on our cars('92-'95) there's an air temp. sensor located within the MAF housing, you'd need a schematic to tell which wires to add a resistor to.
I've had good results with other vehicles doing this, and it was a heck of alot cheaper than a $$$ ecu upgrade that would've done the same thing. The effect will be added timing advance, better power, and driveability.
As for the catalyst, I wouldn't bother with the roto-rooter plan, not much gain there, and the exhausts are pretty decent on these cars already.

Silverback

Did you ever find out if this Mod was compatable, even more important did it provide positive results?

Thanks

VSsc400

iTrader: (1)

[/B][/QUOTE] Who makes the stage III ECU ship? and what do you mean by "serious HP?"

30-35 ponies from intake and exhaust is highly unlikely. As for me; with the airbox cut open and catback with x-pipe gave me 178rwhp - 202 rwhp so 24rwhp gain. This is on an SC400.

what you refer to "cleaning out the cat" is commonly known as "gutting the cat" This will pass the visual part of your emissions inspection but will fail in the actual emission part of the test.
On N/A vehicles with gutted cats; most likely you will lose some low end power but gain on top end.
a new greddy exhaust system does not include a catalytic coverter so this would be different issue.

The ECT power button that you refer to enables the engine to revv higher before switching gears. With our cars making max power in the 5k-6k rpm range you will have more power at those rpm's than on the lower rpm ranges. The car does not make more power because you have the ECT pushed it. It just changes the rpm point when the car is driven spiritedly. If you are driving the same-ole-granny-style it makes no difference.

I say hoax until we see proof. I have yet to see a proof of power gains. In theory yes.. I can see why it may work. but i have yet to see proof. Not trying to doubt the product. but the resistor would just delay the signal thus fooling the ECU... if you are getting a full ECU upgrade you will no need this... no cheap way out.
Be cheap now and pay for more repairs later. always works out that way

I hope this has helped you in your quest for more power.
The search button is your friend. You will find answers to your questions in more ways than one. It may feel cumbersome but you are more likely to have your answer immediately then to have to wait for answers..

If you are an SC3 owner supraforums can provide many upgrade answers as for you share the same engine and tranny with them.

good luck.

did I mention "search button" is your best friend here?