TGRich

I was just wondering if any of you with 5 speeds have ever had to adjust the clutch pedal, or even if that's possible. Normally the clutch would grab the most around the middle of letting off on the pedal. My clutch over the last 1.5 years seems like now it gets mostly to the top (almost all the way let off) before the main grabby part happens. There is no play in the pedal when I put my foot under the bottom and pull towards me. And the clutch is not going bad, it just seems like the point where it grabs is farther away from the floow then it was when I first got it.
Any ?'s let me know- I didn't explain this the best.

Thanks guys

motorheaddown

Yeah... there is a nut on the piston rod to the clutch master cylinder. It's connected to the clutch pedal; you can't miss it. Just loosen that thing up and adjust the piston rod to get the engagement point you need.

-scott

TGRich

Cool, thanks Scott. Took a closer look today and found it. Do you really have to take any of the interior panels off down there to adjust it correctly?

Oh, and you gonna be at the 11/22 meet down there?

motorheaddown

Interior panels should not have to be removed.

I looked up your post on the regional forums about the meet, but I haven't heard much else about it.

-scott

mrshabo

will this affect clutch engagement if it grabs too high up?

TGRich

No, unless it's so high that its engaged at the pedal full up position- then you have a problem.
I just don't like where it engages, I guess it's mostly a matter of personal preference.

TGRich

Scott,
I finally had time to do the adjustment today, but I had a problem. I tried to loosen the nut so I could turn the rod, but the nut wouldn't budge. And I tried both directions, just in case. I even had a pair of vise grips to hold the part where the rod connects to the pedal b/c I thought I was going to break the dang connection point.
Any ideas? Was it hard for you?

Tim

motorheaddown

Don't use vise grips; you'll need to use open end metric sockets that are sized correctly. And yes, the nut could be very tight.

-scott

TGRich

I only used vice grips to hold the assembly in place and keep it from twisting apart. I used a 12mm open end wrench for the nut, but like I said, I felt like the thing would break before it would come loose.

/Aerostar\

iTrader: (2)

You're lucky, my car ('88 Tercel) grabs at the very bottom which is REALLY annoying, because I have to press the clutch all the way down when shifting and when it engages after only lifitng it about an inch. kinda annoying

also, could you use a socket wrench on that bolt? Socket wrenches are the best, Im sure it could loosen that bolt in second

TGRich

Actually, it's not good having the engagement too close to the top either. It tends to make driving a bit "jumpy".

TGRich

Wow, this thread is pretty old! But I wanted to update you guys for anyone doing a search on this in the future. I went back under today (how long has it been?) and I tried again. This time I got it with a single open end 12mm wrench. And to clarify, you have to turn the nut ccw when looking at it from the front of the car. Kinda confusing since you actually have to get it from the back.

Hope this helps
Tim

Haydo

i have a 2000 is200 and my clutch seems to be grabbing right at the bottom. is there anyway i can adjust it to have it near the top. thanks

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

that would be using the rod, remember you need a 1/4" to 1/2" of free play at the top of the clutch pedal, meaning you have to push it down some before anything starts to happen. If you don't do this, there is a chance the clutch will not engage and disangage fully. make sure you have that 1/2" of free play.

also if you cannot get the adjustment to change much no matter how much you change the rod length, that means your master is on its way out. if you occasionally find your clutch on the floor and it in general engages very low no matter how you adjust it, its generally the master. Disconnect the line to the slave and pump the pedal, (a little bit that was left in the line should come out) but then if it stops pushing fluid and the master reservoir is full, then you def need a new master. If it keeps shooting out fluid very fast, then the master is still ok and try the adjustment again on the pedal or check the slave.