Removal NX200t Badge - Keeping Fsport On !
04-06-15, 02:38 AM
#16
Lexus Test Driver
Wax is not a remover of anything. You needed a fine polish to get rid of the residue. Then you glaze and wax over it to reseal it.
Also, soap and water does not remove adhesives well. Get something that does. Like goo gone.
Last edited by Swacer; 04-06-15 at 04:50 AM.
04-06-15, 05:12 AM
#17
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04-06-15, 06:18 AM
#18
for the scratch lines that are now there from using a brillo pad (
) you have to polish that area. looks like you will need a compound, then a polish.
NEVER use a brillo pad or sponge's abrasive side on a car. and regardless of material, you should never have to use that much pressure when using something on a painted surface. let the product do the work. if it isnt working, youre using the wrong product.
something like meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish should be available at advance auto and perhaps walmart. pick up a pack of microfiber towels and use those. follow the directions on the bottle and you should be fine. do the compound, then polish, then use wax after that. you want to work in circles, not back and forth lines (as you did with the brillo pad, causing those horizontal scratches).
p.s. if you have any interest in getting the tools to detail your car, now is a great time. even if you go the cheap route, you can get a random orbital buffer, 3 pads, and a 3" backplate with pads for $100 or less at harbor freight. then all you would need is compound and polish of your choice.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57...her-69924.html $70 for buffer, Ive seen it cheaper on sale, especially if you get the flyer in your email or mail with a coupon!
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-co...pad-60311.html $5, pad for compound
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-po...pad-60309.html $5, pad for polish
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-fi...pad-60310.html $5 pad for wax/sealant (or even finer polish)
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-mi...-pc-69335.html $15 3 inch backplate with pads. I recommend this kit to everyone, because it makes detailing in tight areas where you can only get the edge of a 6" pad, so much easier (around mirrors, around lights, around badges, etc)
all of that is $100 even if my math is right. with a coupon, probably under $80. The harbor freight random orbital is the best value buffer on the market in my opinion, especially if you can get it for $50 or less with a coupon like I did. For reference, I picked it up as a spare to my griots garage 6", and its pretty much replace the GG6 as I find it has more power.
look on www.autopia.org for tons of information on using detailing tools and getting the best results and how.
so forgive me for derailing the thread, but if you want to fix that spot and have tools/products to last you for a while for future detailing of your car, it really doesnt cost all that much.
) you have to polish that area. looks like you will need a compound, then a polish. NEVER use a brillo pad or sponge's abrasive side on a car. and regardless of material, you should never have to use that much pressure when using something on a painted surface. let the product do the work. if it isnt working, youre using the wrong product.
something like meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish should be available at advance auto and perhaps walmart. pick up a pack of microfiber towels and use those. follow the directions on the bottle and you should be fine. do the compound, then polish, then use wax after that. you want to work in circles, not back and forth lines (as you did with the brillo pad, causing those horizontal scratches).
p.s. if you have any interest in getting the tools to detail your car, now is a great time. even if you go the cheap route, you can get a random orbital buffer, 3 pads, and a 3" backplate with pads for $100 or less at harbor freight. then all you would need is compound and polish of your choice.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57...her-69924.html $70 for buffer, Ive seen it cheaper on sale, especially if you get the flyer in your email or mail with a coupon!
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-co...pad-60311.html $5, pad for compound
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-po...pad-60309.html $5, pad for polish
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-fi...pad-60310.html $5 pad for wax/sealant (or even finer polish)
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-mi...-pc-69335.html $15 3 inch backplate with pads. I recommend this kit to everyone, because it makes detailing in tight areas where you can only get the edge of a 6" pad, so much easier (around mirrors, around lights, around badges, etc)
all of that is $100 even if my math is right. with a coupon, probably under $80. The harbor freight random orbital is the best value buffer on the market in my opinion, especially if you can get it for $50 or less with a coupon like I did. For reference, I picked it up as a spare to my griots garage 6", and its pretty much replace the GG6 as I find it has more power.
look on www.autopia.org for tons of information on using detailing tools and getting the best results and how.
so forgive me for derailing the thread, but if you want to fix that spot and have tools/products to last you for a while for future detailing of your car, it really doesnt cost all that much.
04-06-15, 03:46 PM
#19
Lexus Test Driver
for the scratch lines that are now there from using a brillo pad () you have to polish that area. looks like you will need a compound, then a polish.
NEVER use a brillo pad or sponge's abrasive side on a car. and regardless of material, you should never have to use that much pressure when using something on a painted surface. let the product do the work. if it isnt working, youre using the wrong product.
something like meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish should be available at advance auto and perhaps walmart. pick up a pack of microfiber towels and use those. follow the directions on the bottle and you should be fine. do the compound, then polish, then use wax after that. you want to work in circles, not back and forth lines (as you did with the brillo pad, causing those horizontal scratches).
p.s. if you have any interest in getting the tools to detail your car, now is a great time. even if you go the cheap route, you can get a random orbital buffer, 3 pads, and a 3" backplate with pads for $100 or less at harbor freight. then all you would need is compound and polish of your choice.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57...her-69924.html $70 for buffer, Ive seen it cheaper on sale, especially if you get the flyer in your email or mail with a coupon!
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-co...pad-60311.html $5, pad for compound
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-po...pad-60309.html $5, pad for polish
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-fi...pad-60310.html $5 pad for wax/sealant (or even finer polish)
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-mi...-pc-69335.html $15 3 inch backplate with pads. I recommend this kit to everyone, because it makes detailing in tight areas where you can only get the edge of a 6" pad, so much easier (around mirrors, around lights, around badges, etc)
all of that is $100 even if my math is right. with a coupon, probably under $80. The harbor freight random orbital is the best value buffer on the market in my opinion, especially if you can get it for $50 or less with a coupon like I did. For reference, I picked it up as a spare to my griots garage 6", and its pretty much replace the GG6 as I find it has more power.
look on www.autopia.org for tons of information on using detailing tools and getting the best results and how.
so forgive me for derailing the thread, but if you want to fix that spot and have tools/products to last you for a while for future detailing of your car, it really doesnt cost all that much.
) you have to polish that area. looks like you will need a compound, then a polish. NEVER use a brillo pad or sponge's abrasive side on a car. and regardless of material, you should never have to use that much pressure when using something on a painted surface. let the product do the work. if it isnt working, youre using the wrong product.
something like meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish should be available at advance auto and perhaps walmart. pick up a pack of microfiber towels and use those. follow the directions on the bottle and you should be fine. do the compound, then polish, then use wax after that. you want to work in circles, not back and forth lines (as you did with the brillo pad, causing those horizontal scratches).
p.s. if you have any interest in getting the tools to detail your car, now is a great time. even if you go the cheap route, you can get a random orbital buffer, 3 pads, and a 3" backplate with pads for $100 or less at harbor freight. then all you would need is compound and polish of your choice.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57...her-69924.html $70 for buffer, Ive seen it cheaper on sale, especially if you get the flyer in your email or mail with a coupon!
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-co...pad-60311.html $5, pad for compound
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-po...pad-60309.html $5, pad for polish
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-fi...pad-60310.html $5 pad for wax/sealant (or even finer polish)
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-mi...-pc-69335.html $15 3 inch backplate with pads. I recommend this kit to everyone, because it makes detailing in tight areas where you can only get the edge of a 6" pad, so much easier (around mirrors, around lights, around badges, etc)
all of that is $100 even if my math is right. with a coupon, probably under $80. The harbor freight random orbital is the best value buffer on the market in my opinion, especially if you can get it for $50 or less with a coupon like I did. For reference, I picked it up as a spare to my griots garage 6", and its pretty much replace the GG6 as I find it has more power.
look on www.autopia.org for tons of information on using detailing tools and getting the best results and how.
so forgive me for derailing the thread, but if you want to fix that spot and have tools/products to last you for a while for future detailing of your car, it really doesnt cost all that much.
To fix his car, he is looking at an ultimate polish, followed by a scratch x (with no pressure applied, you're using it was a filler), followed by #9 glaze and a high end black sealant wax. Do not leave the polish step until almost your entire scratches are gone. The rest are just filling in the horrors you committed to your clear coat.
The damage you've done should be fixable with a hand and applicator. It will take you a few hours of rubbing, but they will eventually come out. You're never learn to use an orbital on a car you love. And especially not a cheap Chinese knock off.
Now this is all assuming you only cut the clear coat and didn't ruin the paint. If you ruined the paint...whole different problem.
04-06-15, 04:41 PM
#20
Personally, I wouldn't buy anything cleaning wise from harbor freight. While they are good for a cheap tool, their stuff is exactly that....cheap and low quality. And your results match the money you invest.
To fix his car, he is looking at an ultimate polish, followed by a scratch x (with no pressure applied, you're using it was a filler), followed by #9 glaze and a high end black sealant wax. Do not leave the polish step until almost your entire scratches are gone. The rest are just filling in the horrors you committed to your clear coat.
The damage you've done should be fixable with a hand and applicator. It will take you a few hours of rubbing, but they will eventually come out. You're never learn to use an orbital on a car you love. And especially not a cheap Chinese knock off.
Now this is all assuming you only cut the clear coat and didn't ruin the paint. If you ruined the paint...whole different problem.
To fix his car, he is looking at an ultimate polish, followed by a scratch x (with no pressure applied, you're using it was a filler), followed by #9 glaze and a high end black sealant wax. Do not leave the polish step until almost your entire scratches are gone. The rest are just filling in the horrors you committed to your clear coat.
The damage you've done should be fixable with a hand and applicator. It will take you a few hours of rubbing, but they will eventually come out. You're never learn to use an orbital on a car you love. And especially not a cheap Chinese knock off.
Now this is all assuming you only cut the clear coat and didn't ruin the paint. If you ruined the paint...whole different problem.
04-06-15, 04:50 PM
#21
before:
after:
with a $50 tool.
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