matzinm2

Alright guys,

here is my *soar* subject... lololol

I am getting a good chunk of money back from a housing deposit I made, my poor soarer has had a rough life, and the paint needs some desperate help, what's more, I have a set of Takata green 18" Work CR-Kai's at home, while the wheels I have now are 17"s and curbed. I was thinking DWP or that IS-F blue. However, money is somewhat of an option.

I am looking for a good shop that I can get base coat/clear to Lexus specs (or at least look factory.

OR,
Do I put a turbo on my high-mileage 2JZ? And does anybody know a good shop/private mechanic that I can chip in (I want to help out/learn more about turbo installs/swaps). However, again, money is an object. Will the turbo drastically reduce my engine's life? I know that 2JZ's are supposedly "bulletproof", but I want to know HOW bulletproof.

What do you guys think?

matzinm2

I also have Soarer badges that must go on.

I'm leaning towards paint.

I'll get pics up of body and engine bay soon... you know, to help along the debate.

sj408

iTrader: (6)

do all your work and turbo first...and paint last. That way if you drop a wrench on your fender you dont freak out cause its a new paint job

my .02

2jzinsider

iTrader: (4)

Do the turbo/engine setup first maybe some suspension after. My first sc I did body and paint first by the time I did the 2jzgte swap I already got tired of working on the car. That being said I sold it and parted out... I wish I did the turbo first and enjoyed the car/driving it. I'm back now with a another sc but doing all the suspension first then engine maybe body in a year or so. I'm from the bay also

cmh

i would do the motor first... as in motor finished. i did paint and motor at the same time and i regret it so bad im selling my car.

i should have done my swap and gone single turbo, injectors, fuel managment, etc..

instead i did the swap, paint, kit and wheels. now it feels like everythig is half way done.

lilSCsteve

iTrader: (71)

Just curious, what's high mileage on your Lexus? Depending on the build spec and price, I would do the motor work first...(this will give you a piece of mind) or reliability, then suspension and handling, and oh don't forget braking...lol. Paint would definitely be last! Just my two cents, good luck...keep us posted.

matzinm2

coils and 18 SSR's are already on it, (SSR's for trade fyi), Do you think a 200k + mileage engine can hold up to a tiny jet engine (~7-9 lbs boost) without failing?

Anferny

Don't forget about your drive train.

matzinm2

I have factory five speed and I've heard good things about the W handling power well. ~450 horse I hear so I figure 20 year old five speed might be able to handle 280-290?

ZSC3

iTrader: (1)

It all depends on your power goals & driving habits... but regardless you should dump the w58 and go straight to a r154, you wont regret it.

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

I say motor then paint. I swapped in a 2jzgte just to get some power, then kitted and painted the car. Now im going with a single turbo, and a nice set of wheels.

2jzinsider

iTrader: (4)

What kind of ssrs do you have? I have 19 te37 with a agressive offsets I might want to let go of.


If you don't mind some headaches and troubleshooting then do the na-t route after awhile and bunch of learning it will run fine and reliable @8psi give or take. You will keep up with them 3series and g35s all over the place... if anything happens latter to the engine. The ge engines can be found for 300-500 easy.


I was na-t and did it with only a $1000 budget but I bet it was more like 1500 after all the run arounds.