Hey Ali I'm about to put my block back together and had a question about piston ring gapping. I have a 93 2jz non vvti n/a motor that im preparing for NA-T. I got the block surfaced and bores honed for new rings and head gasket. I bought oem piston rings and was wondering if I can/should gap the rings to oe GTE spec or gap them to its original NA spec? Ive looked at other NA-t build threads and I haven't seen anyone touch the bottom end. THANKS IN ADVANCE!

Sup Ali, quick question... what it be possible to do the TT ECU mod on a 1995 SC300 that was originally an automatic but now converted to a manual with a W 58?

are you familiar with aem setup? i'm trying to go from the tt ecu mod to the aemv2 but am having issue with the ignition start up. im using a tt file but ge distributor file but it seems to be off tming. Any help would be appreciated

hey ali its me to bug you again.
I got a couple of weird questions. I know nothing about turbo yet or fuel pressure for when I get there but Im trying to do all the research I can.
well my main goal is to daily 650 on haltech standalone with na-t. overall I want stronger rods, possibly carillo's, wiseco pistons, i'm looking at fsmoto for their fuel rail since I want a couple of aesthetics, (like the fact that the inlets are on the actual side of the rail and not on top of the side. lol.) I've already talked to you about the ffim stuff, bc stage 2 cams and double valve springs and retainers, idk what turbo kit yet, lq7 qoils, and aftermarket fpr and guage. I know some of this seems overkill for just 650 but i'd rather be safe than sorry, also maybe one day i'll want more than 650hp.
anyways, I was looking at the specs for tt fuel pump

Ali,

It is a dealer here in Arizona, however they have a ebay listing they have both sides.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331454152589

I didnt want to post it to the forum, since I havent bought mine yet.

Hi Ali,

Ive been reading everything I can on R154s, and i found pretty much everything I need to know. Im going to extend the shifter housing and use a straight necked shifter. the beech short throw shifter, which ide like to have, but its a swan neck. ebay short throw mkiii shifter with straight neck is $100 less @150 but probably not as good in quality. not really a question here, just bouncing my info off someone who knows better than me. ill extend 4" and make a "custom" hole for the shifter. my question here however is what to do about the rear diff. last time i checked, a TRD auto lsd was $900, now they are $1600...and most aftermarket ones are also $1600 and are 2 way. im trying to find a 1.5 way for under $1000. i can find jdm auto lsd's from vvti aristos for ~500; any idea if this would work? or point me in a direction?

I didnt want to start a new thread and ive been searching and havent found much. your time is always appreciated so thank you very much,
Ed