replacing the stater on GS400
01-06-13, 09:53 AM
#31
Driver School Candidate
07-10-17, 08:30 AM
#33
Driver School Candidate
A couple notes I think anyone wanting to do this should know to make it easier.
1. The entire intake manifold should be removed with the throttle body. It can be done and does not require you to pull them apart. Yes, there is a hose on the bottom side of the throttle body that you may have some fun getting too, but
its was worth it to me to not have to disassemble it from the intake manifold. The other tube that comes from the side of the thermostat housing to the underside of the throttle body is holding antifreeze. Pull off and plug with something. Its not a big leaker in general, less than a quarter cup at most. I plugged it with an ear plug.
2. You do not need to drain the radiator at all. Totally unnecessary step.
3. You will need to have the following special tools: long needle nose pliers, a swivel head box end ratchet wrench - 14mm, Flarenut wrench for the fuel line. Do not attempt to undo that without one. You will probably destroy the fitting.
Of course you will need the 3/8 ratchet, universal joint, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 14 mm socket, minimum of 6" extension, breaker bar possibly for starter bolts. The swivel head box wrench is needed for one starter bolt. Using that tool will
then enable you to not remove the coolant bridge in the rear over the starter. WIth that wrench, it will save you an hour alone.
4. You must vacuum out the intake area after removal of the manifold. All the old wire heat wrap will drop down all over your open manifold very easily. This is probably the most important part of doing this, Take very special attention to getting all
the dirt, debris and tape out of this area before reinstallation. Taping over the manifold is highly recommended after cleaning it all out.
5. When reinstalling the starter, recommend getting both 14 mm bolts as tight as you can, hit the back of the starter with a soft mallet to make sure its absolutely flush with the mount. Then tighten to spec.
6. There is the coolant temperature sensor located very close to the front corner passenger side of the intake manifold. Be very careful of that when reinstalling the manifold. Easily breakable when putting it back in. Yes, I did it and thankfully its a local pickup part at any auto store.
7. Torque the manifold down very carefully. hand tighten them all, then go back and start at the middle working out on the bolts, 14 lbs I believe was the spec.
I did mine this past weekend. Took less than 4 hours with never touching one like this before. Its not that difficult as is time consuming and an awkward thing to lift off. Its pretty self intuitive on how you need to remove and replace it all.
Good luck and dont sweat it, you can do it.
1. The entire intake manifold should be removed with the throttle body. It can be done and does not require you to pull them apart. Yes, there is a hose on the bottom side of the throttle body that you may have some fun getting too, but
its was worth it to me to not have to disassemble it from the intake manifold. The other tube that comes from the side of the thermostat housing to the underside of the throttle body is holding antifreeze. Pull off and plug with something. Its not a big leaker in general, less than a quarter cup at most. I plugged it with an ear plug.
2. You do not need to drain the radiator at all. Totally unnecessary step.
3. You will need to have the following special tools: long needle nose pliers, a swivel head box end ratchet wrench - 14mm, Flarenut wrench for the fuel line. Do not attempt to undo that without one. You will probably destroy the fitting.
Of course you will need the 3/8 ratchet, universal joint, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 14 mm socket, minimum of 6" extension, breaker bar possibly for starter bolts. The swivel head box wrench is needed for one starter bolt. Using that tool will
then enable you to not remove the coolant bridge in the rear over the starter. WIth that wrench, it will save you an hour alone.
4. You must vacuum out the intake area after removal of the manifold. All the old wire heat wrap will drop down all over your open manifold very easily. This is probably the most important part of doing this, Take very special attention to getting all
the dirt, debris and tape out of this area before reinstallation. Taping over the manifold is highly recommended after cleaning it all out.
5. When reinstalling the starter, recommend getting both 14 mm bolts as tight as you can, hit the back of the starter with a soft mallet to make sure its absolutely flush with the mount. Then tighten to spec.
6. There is the coolant temperature sensor located very close to the front corner passenger side of the intake manifold. Be very careful of that when reinstalling the manifold. Easily breakable when putting it back in. Yes, I did it and thankfully its a local pickup part at any auto store.
7. Torque the manifold down very carefully. hand tighten them all, then go back and start at the middle working out on the bolts, 14 lbs I believe was the spec.
I did mine this past weekend. Took less than 4 hours with never touching one like this before. Its not that difficult as is time consuming and an awkward thing to lift off. Its pretty self intuitive on how you need to remove and replace it all.
Good luck and dont sweat it, you can do it.
03-07-19, 05:59 PM
#34
Driver School Candidate
Advice on this thread = worth weight in gold
2. You do not need to drain the radiator at all. Totally unnecessary step.
3. You will need to have the following special tools: long needle nose pliers, a swivel head box end ratchet wrench - 14mm, Flarenut wrench for the fuel line. Do not attempt to undo that without one. You will probably destroy the fitting.
Of course you will need the 3/8 ratchet, universal joint, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 14 mm socket, minimum of 6" extension, breaker bar possibly for starter bolts. The swivel head box wrench is needed for one starter bolt. Using that tool will
then enable you to not remove the coolant bridge in the rear over the starter. WIth that wrench, it will save you an hour.
Good luck and dont sweat it, you can do it.
3. You will need to have the following special tools: long needle nose pliers, a swivel head box end ratchet wrench - 14mm, Flarenut wrench for the fuel line. Do not attempt to undo that without one. You will probably destroy the fitting.
Of course you will need the 3/8 ratchet, universal joint, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 14 mm socket, minimum of 6" extension, breaker bar possibly for starter bolts. The swivel head box wrench is needed for one starter bolt. Using that tool will
then enable you to not remove the coolant bridge in the rear over the starter. WIth that wrench, it will save you an hour.
Good luck and dont sweat it, you can do it.
This helped me sooooo much!
Only thing I did differently was unbolt the throttle body from the manifold and I left all the hoses connected. Didn't even have to plug any coolant hose. My friend and I did this on my "new" 99 GS 400 over the weekend and it took us less than 3 hours. Look up all the videos you can and watch them a few times and it will help you feel more comfortable with what your doing if your like me and have limited mechanical experience.
BUY ALL THE TOOLS THIS MAN SAID. Spent $80 on tools to save $350 on the lowest starter replacement labor estimate. Thanks for all your help guys!
09-05-22, 07:35 AM
#36
Driver School Candidate
Hey can any one tell me how many fasteners are on the lower intake...I've removed four nuts from the corners and two bolts from the middle (one each side) but the intake wont budge (It's now 23 years old I'm assuming it's just being stubborn but the whole thing being made out of aluminum makes me hesitant to continue beating on it further). The only thing I see that could be holding it on fastener wise is what appears to be two torx on each side around the injectors but I'm thinking those are to hold the injector mounting plates to the manifold. Again I assume it's just being stubborn but I've already beat it like it owes me money with a rubber mallet and a deadblow, If I use my 2.5 pounder the manifold will certainly crack/brake/deform. 
help me plz.
help me plz.
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bmanke
SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)
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