donteatbug

Since I couldn't find a write-up on this job I decided to make one myself. There are plenty on the 2JZ , but none on the 1UZ.

Oring part I used Viton 1/16" thickness, 3" ID, 3 1/8" OD

First off, this leak was found inside the timing covers and behind the timing belt sprocket. The oil was running down the covers and leaking onto the exhaust.

You can follow the timing belt replacement guide to get down to the cam gears. Dont remove the timing belt yet. When you get there it should look like this but with the plug still in the end. Remove the plug on the end of the timing gear.




You will have to hold the crank pulley while you break the allen bolt loose inside the cam gear. They are pretty tight. I used an impact.

You can then take the timing belt and sprocket off.



Mark the pulley position and the pin position on the outer pulley. Then remove the torx head screws that say DO NOT REMOVE on them. Be careful because there is a large spring behind it and lots of oil in it. Put lots of rags under the pulley.




You should have this now.



Clean up the oil and seal grove with rags. Make sure not to get oil on the timing belt.

Hopefully the whole gear came out as one piece. Mine didnt.

I have 3 pieces that came out seperately.





I scraped the old oring off with a razor blade and grey scuff pad. Make sure you mark the position of the notches. They have to go back the same way they came out.

The only way I know to reassemble the gears is with a hammer and brass punch. Insert the smallest gear into the middle gear. This will take some wiggling of both pieces. Dont force it. Then set both of them into the outer housing. Make sure the shims are in the bottom of it before you do though.




Make sure the oil wiper has started in the groove and the gears are lined up to go it the right spot. Use a small hammer and brass punch and tap on the little circles on the middle gear. This will spread the teeth and let it slide down into the outer gear. Alternate on the circles to start it evenly.

If you did it correctly then all your match marks will line up.



The important one is the Cam notch and the line up pin. They should be inline with each other.





Now that that hassle is over, You're ready to put it back on with the new oring. I put a couple dabs or grease on the oring to hold it in place.



Put the spring on and make sure the 2 dowel pins are lined up.



Push the pulley on and hold it while you start the small bolts. Dont snug them down yet. Run the allen bolt in , I hit it once with the impact so it wouldn't move. Put a ratchet on it to set your outer pulley back into the same postition. Use the dowel pin you marked earlier as your guide. Once its in the right spot you can tighten the 4 torx bolts. I used 66 in-lbs, same as the timing gear specs.



Now all you have left is the timing belt gear.



Install the timing belt and make a round by hand to make sure everything rotates correctly. Hold the crank pulley and torque the allen head bolt to spec. 81 ft-lbs I think.

If there is anything I left out. I'm truely sorry.

LScowboyLS

very nice work and write up!

FrankT

Nice write up.
Just saw this.
I've been needing to do this job for a while, I'm just waiting for the next interval on the timing belt.

One question; once the VVT assembly is off the cam can you replace the cam seals by by just removing the front cam caps without completely removing the cams?
This might save some time by leaving the cams in place.

Again great write up and thank you for posting the Oring size.

FrankT

To answer my own question...

Here is a diagram of the timing tube, looks like cams need to come out for cam seal replacement.

SHAWN112

question where can u buy this oil ring at