Difficulty starting this morning
12-09-02, 12:32 AM
#1
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Difficulty starting this morning
I had a strange experience starting my 2000 GS3 with 40,000 miles on it. Just brought it in for the 40k service a few weeks ago...
Well, anyway, I had not used the car for at least 4-5 days, and it had been cold for a few of those days (maybe in the upper 20's, low 30's, nothing too extreme), and it took me a long time to start the car. I had to crank it a few times, until it finally felt like it was getting ready to start. Then I cranked it a little bit more, and it finally started, but I had to immediately give it some gas to keep the idle up, as it felt as though it would stall. After about 30 seconds of feeling really rough, it finally started to feel normal, and after about a minute, it was fine. Started it up a few more times that day, and each time it was fine.
Strangely enough, it had been another 4-5 days before I started it the last time (so, 8-10 days ago), and even though that was after some 10 degree nights, it started up fine (with only an extra second or two of cranking necessary).
Anyone else ever have this situation? It really surprised me, since I have left the car not used for days at a time before, and have never had any sort of problem starting it, and actually, I was always so amazed at how easily it would start.
Well, anyway, I had not used the car for at least 4-5 days, and it had been cold for a few of those days (maybe in the upper 20's, low 30's, nothing too extreme), and it took me a long time to start the car. I had to crank it a few times, until it finally felt like it was getting ready to start. Then I cranked it a little bit more, and it finally started, but I had to immediately give it some gas to keep the idle up, as it felt as though it would stall. After about 30 seconds of feeling really rough, it finally started to feel normal, and after about a minute, it was fine. Started it up a few more times that day, and each time it was fine.
Strangely enough, it had been another 4-5 days before I started it the last time (so, 8-10 days ago), and even though that was after some 10 degree nights, it started up fine (with only an extra second or two of cranking necessary).
Anyone else ever have this situation? It really surprised me, since I have left the car not used for days at a time before, and have never had any sort of problem starting it, and actually, I was always so amazed at how easily it would start.
12-09-02, 08:07 AM
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Battery Time
Sounds as if your battery is starting to fail. If this is the original battery, it sounds like your experiencing the first signs of battery failure. I find that batteries in all my vehicles only last 2-3 years and I just replaced the one in my GS this weekend. Same symptons as yours ( hard to start and ran poorly) but is good again with new battery!
12-09-02, 10:22 AM
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DuraLast
I bought an AutoZone DuraLast battery. I started running this battery in all 3 of my autos a couple of years ago. Since all my batteries have failed within a 3 year window I switched to this battery because it carries an eight year warranty with a THREE YEAR FREE replacement warranty as well. This is the best battery I have ever run with the best warranty and cost me $70.00 for the GS4 (800 cranking amps). I replaced one in my Chevy Conversion van this past summer and it cost me $0 and ran it for 2 years. Texas summers are pretty hard on batterys.
12-09-02, 02:41 PM
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get an Optima Red top ($110) at local store or Costo
even you are not running high power stereo, dry cell battery is superior to conventional batt in many way including heat and cold resitance. I am running an Optima red top with a high power stereo setup on my other car for 4 year already, still work like new. I am sure many other Optima users can say the same (I am not talking about the extreme stereo ppl, you want nothing but Yellow top battery and still mess it up
)
spend a little bit more money for a good battery, you will thank yourself later.
Anh
even you are not running high power stereo, dry cell battery is superior to conventional batt in many way including heat and cold resitance. I am running an Optima red top with a high power stereo setup on my other car for 4 year already, still work like new. I am sure many other Optima users can say the same (I am not talking about the extreme stereo ppl, you want nothing but Yellow top battery and still mess it up
)spend a little bit more money for a good battery, you will thank yourself later.
Anh
12-09-02, 04:36 PM
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Originally posted by BananaGS
get an Optima Red top ($110) at local store or Costo
even you are not running high power stereo, dry cell battery is superior to conventional batt in many way including heat and cold resitance. I am running an Optima red top with a high power stereo setup on my other car for 4 year already, still work like new. I am sure many other Optima users can say the same (I am not talking about the extreme stereo ppl, you want nothing but Yellow top battery and still mess it up)
spend a little bit more money for a good battery, you will thank yourself later.
Anh
get an Optima Red top ($110) at local store or Costo
even you are not running high power stereo, dry cell battery is superior to conventional batt in many way including heat and cold resitance. I am running an Optima red top with a high power stereo setup on my other car for 4 year already, still work like new. I am sure many other Optima users can say the same (I am not talking about the extreme stereo ppl, you want nothing but Yellow top battery and still mess it up
)spend a little bit more money for a good battery, you will thank yourself later.
Anh
12-09-02, 05:44 PM
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I knew nothing of the Optima batteries before this post , I may have tried one if I knew about them. Did go to their site to find out more about them. They are not a dry cell battery but rather a sealed lead/acid battery with spiral cell technology. They do look interesting. Still happy with my Duralast purchases and figure I will probably not have to pay for another battery for my present cars (or if I do it will be very minumal for prorating).
Here's Optima's FAQs page
http://www.optimabatteries.com/faq.asp
Here's Optima's FAQs page
http://www.optimabatteries.com/faq.asp
Last edited by BLW; 12-09-02 at 05:48 PM.
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12-11-02, 12:33 AM
#8
Almost bought a battery today
The guys at Autozone told me that the Optima has a 1 year replacement warranty vs. the 3 years for Duralast. They did say that they rarely see any Optimas coming back.
Also, the RC rating on my current 84 month battery installed by the dealer under warranty is 130. This is much higher that either the Optima (105 I think)or the Duralast(100). I live in Calif, so the cold cranking superiority of the optima/duralast is not such a big deal right?
Reason I'm looking for as battery is that I left the headlights on for about three hours and the battery was dead. I thought it should last longer than that, but the dealer said my battery was fine after a jump and 20 minute drive.
Also, the RC rating on my current 84 month battery installed by the dealer under warranty is 130. This is much higher that either the Optima (105 I think)or the Duralast(100). I live in Calif, so the cold cranking superiority of the optima/duralast is not such a big deal right?
Reason I'm looking for as battery is that I left the headlights on for about three hours and the battery was dead. I thought it should last longer than that, but the dealer said my battery was fine after a jump and 20 minute drive.
12-11-02, 07:50 PM
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Re: No Matches ??
Originally posted by duster
Optima website lists no battery matches for a '98 GS 300 or 400? Seems odd.
Optima website lists no battery matches for a '98 GS 300 or 400? Seems odd.
12-13-02, 08:57 PM
#11
Lexus Champion
I don't know what's wrong with your car, but I don't think its the battery. If it is your battery, the starter should turn slower or can't even crank the engine. You crank the engine a few times plus the car sat for more than 3-4 days, the battery is fine...
Yes I agree that the battery life last ~3-4 years, but it's not the problem in this case...
This thread got side track on the original problem.
The guy did not ask what kind of battery he should buy
Yes I agree that the battery life last ~3-4 years, but it's not the problem in this case...
This thread got side track on the original problem.
The guy did not ask what kind of battery he should buy
12-14-02, 10:33 AM
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Originally posted by VQT
I don't know what's wrong with your car, but I don't think its the battery. If it is your battery, the starter should turn slower or can't even crank the engine. You crank the engine a few times plus the car sat for more than 3-4 days, the battery is fine...
Yes I agree that the battery life last ~3-4 years, but it's not the problem in this case...
This thread got side track on the original problem.
The guy did not ask what kind of battery he should buy
I don't know what's wrong with your car, but I don't think its the battery. If it is your battery, the starter should turn slower or can't even crank the engine. You crank the engine a few times plus the car sat for more than 3-4 days, the battery is fine...
Yes I agree that the battery life last ~3-4 years, but it's not the problem in this case...
This thread got side track on the original problem.
The guy did not ask what kind of battery he should buy
Last edited by Sovero1; 12-14-02 at 10:35 AM.
12-25-02, 11:47 PM
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I have the same or similar problem....
My car will crank fine but every once and awhile it will feel like a dead cylinder until a few seconds ~20 or so of idleing. It feels like mine is isolated to one cylinder. Injector, Fluke on cold starts, Fuel fowling spark, etc.??
The battery only cranks the car and then the motor and electronics will run off the alternator because it is charging 13+ volts which is more than the battery(12+volts)can put out. I do not see a battery swap fixing rough running of the motor unless the Alternator is not charging for a few seconds until the motor is running for awhile. This would be a new one on me.
What are the normal problems with misfire with cold starts?
TrboHead
My car will crank fine but every once and awhile it will feel like a dead cylinder until a few seconds ~20 or so of idleing. It feels like mine is isolated to one cylinder. Injector, Fluke on cold starts, Fuel fowling spark, etc.??
The battery only cranks the car and then the motor and electronics will run off the alternator because it is charging 13+ volts which is more than the battery(12+volts)can put out. I do not see a battery swap fixing rough running of the motor unless the Alternator is not charging for a few seconds until the motor is running for awhile. This would be a new one on me.
What are the normal problems with misfire with cold starts?
TrboHead
01-05-03, 01:27 PM
#14
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Agreed, this is probably not the problem. I'm having the same issue. Just got my plugs, battery and fuel pump replaced. Car ran great for one month until today. Car refuses to start but I have plenty of battery juice.
So, tomorrow, it's back to the dealer. I'm pissed after writing them an $1100 check.
So, tomorrow, it's back to the dealer. I'm pissed after writing them an $1100 check.
Originally posted by VQT
I don't know what's wrong with your car, but I don't think its the battery. If it is your battery, the starter should turn slower or can't even crank the engine. You crank the engine a few times plus the car sat for more than 3-4 days, the battery is fine...
Yes I agree that the battery life last ~3-4 years, but it's not the problem in this case...
This thread got side track on the original problem.
The guy did not ask what kind of battery he should buy
I don't know what's wrong with your car, but I don't think its the battery. If it is your battery, the starter should turn slower or can't even crank the engine. You crank the engine a few times plus the car sat for more than 3-4 days, the battery is fine...
Yes I agree that the battery life last ~3-4 years, but it's not the problem in this case...
This thread got side track on the original problem.
The guy did not ask what kind of battery he should buy
01-06-03, 01:44 AM
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My wife's SC300 has the same hard starts ..
I couldn't figure it out but it is consistent.
I have replaced the plugs, wires , coil , cap/rotor , fuel filter and the battery .. I heard about the battery thing previously from here. I don't know what else it could be.
I drive a 00 Trans Am WS6 and she is always pi$$ed that I barely turn the key and my car is on versus her cranking all the time .. Let me know if you have any suggestions or can think of anything for me to check ..
I am starting to think something like the fuel pressure regulator ??? or something like that ..
I couldn't figure it out but it is consistent.
I have replaced the plugs, wires , coil , cap/rotor , fuel filter and the battery .. I heard about the battery thing previously from here. I don't know what else it could be.
I drive a 00 Trans Am WS6 and she is always pi$$ed that I barely turn the key and my car is on versus her cranking all the time .. Let me know if you have any suggestions or can think of anything for me to check ..
I am starting to think something like the fuel pressure regulator ??? or something like that ..