All About Oil, Additives, and Oil Filters Superthread
List of filters and associations, Main Manufacture
--Sub- names of Brand filters using the main company to manufacture their filters. If you see a discretion, speak up with back up and I'll change the list.
Fram Extra Guard (std)
Fram Tough Guard (different media?)
Fram X2 (Silicone ADBV, Fuzzy media)
Fram Extended Guard(same as the X2)
Honda (although some are alleged to be made by Filtech)
Chrysler line up except for the Cummins
Car and Driver
AutoZone Value Craft
Some AC Delco
Napa Silver (lower quality with nitrile ADBV)
Kralinator (in Canada)
ALLIANCE (Freightliner aftermarket)
Purolator (Arvin Meritor)
Purolator premium plus (nitrile adbv)
Purolator Pure One (silicone adbv, different media)
Maxlife Valvoline (some)
Quaker State (less media)
Advanced Auto Total Grip. (less media)
Pep Boys Pro Line
Denso Toyota Mann+Hummel Mann Volvo
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As a former Product Engineer for one of the household name filter manufacturers on the list, I'd like to add some perspective on filters:
1. You can bet that all filters made by a manufacturer are NOT equal. Filter makers make filters they supply to thier OE (original equipment) customers (i.e. Ford, GM, etc) to specs the customer sets. The filter makers are free determine specs for filters they sell in the aftermarket under their own label. Those filters may be of a better or lower quality than the OE filter. Areas where filters can differ include filtration efficiency (the percentage of particles of a particular size that are removed), capacity (amount of contaminant the filter can hold before becoming restricted), burst strength, pressure drop, etc, etc. Efficiency and capacity are determined for the most part by the filter paper, the performance of different papers can vary greatly, and differences are not possible to see by eye........lab tests under carefully controlled conditions are required. There's a lot of 'black majic' in what the paper manufacturers do and also a lot of jockying for position to get exclusive rights to the best paper to get an advantage over filter competitors.
2. If a filter manufacturer supplies OE (original equipment) filters to a car or engine manufacturer, then they are familiar with the specs required for those filters. (Whether the filters actually meet all the specs is a different question depending on the integrity of the filter maker. Filters are a comodity and the market is extremely competitive; I've actually seen out-of-spec product get knowlingly shipped just to keep production running and revenue coming in.)
3. If a filter maker doesn't provide OE filters for a particular application, they may not have access to the official specs for that filter and must "reverse engineer" their own filter to copy an OE filter. They obtain OE filters however they can, usually from a dealer. The quality of the final product depends on the skill and integrity of the filter maker.
4. Unfortunately, it's impossible for the the consumer to independantly determine which filter is best, and it's difficult to know which filter maker to trust. It's important to me to buy a filter that's most likely to meet the specs set by the engine or car manufacturer......it's their reputation that's "on the front lines" if there's a failure.
To maximize the chance of putting the best filter on any car I really care about, I either buy a filter from a (trusted?) filtermaker that I'm confident has access to the official product specs, or from the car dealer. I always buy the best filter available for the application. To me it's worth the extra money. I use filters from 5 different sources (some dealer-bought, some aftermarket) for the variety of cars we now own.
P.S. It's been a number of years, but I contacted the maker of a widley used "performance" filter for some technical info. The info they provided proudly showed a reduction in pressure drop which would result in greater performance. However, what I did not like was that the efficiency in removing particles of a particular size dropped from 98% to 97%. This may seem like an insignificant change, but if one considers that the number of particles of that size getting thru increases from 2% to 3%......a 50% increase in dirt that filter allows into the engine! .......but not my engine.....not for just another 2-3 hp near redline.
2006 RX330, 2002 Explorer Sport Trac, '66 327/350 'Vette Roadster, '67 327/350 Vette Coupe, '67 911S, 2003 Honda S2000, 1993 Mustang Cobra, 1995 Contour, ERA Cobra (R.I.P.)
Last edited by Rufus; 07-05-08 at 06:58 AM..
Reason: To add a P.S.
Toyota genuine oils are unique products designed by Toyota for Toyota vehicles, even when Toyota hires American companies like Mobil to formulate Toyota oils. Mobil even admits this on it's own website in regards to transmission fluid: See: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...smissions.aspx
"Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and Mobil Multi-Vehicle ATF are suitable for use in Toyota applications where Toyota T-IV type product is recommended. However, the Toyota/Lexus ATF is specifically designed for those vehicles and will provide optimum performance."
I emailed Lexus Canada for oil weight information (it was a detailed email) and this is what they sent me. Keep in mind it's from Lexus Canada. Lexus USA might have different recommendations, though I don't know why they would - the engines are the same, Canada or USA.
The small print at the bottom shows -
""TCI has made all possible efforts to ensure accuracy of this document. In the event of specification dispute and/or inconsistency, the owner's manual prevails. Note: Engine oil viscosity on oil filler cap specifies oil viscosity utilized during engine factory fill. For service refill, other oil grade options may be available for the model. This information is also available on ETAS: Dealer Communication (16) *Please discard all previous versions."
I am closing this thread until I have time to prune it. It will stay sticky'd and if anyone has any more info to put in it, PM myself or MitsuGuy and we will add it in. I will be trimming this down and turning it into an "All about oil-Superthread" and reopening it. I am doing this to try to trim down the number of stickies we have at the top of the forum, in the hopes the maintenance forum will get a little more activity/visibility.
Again, nobody has done anything wrong, this is strictly an organizational thing.
EDIT: Ok, trimming done, Thread is open again. Lets keep this thread on topic and the chit chat to a minimum, just so that we can maintain only correct info in this thread. If you have valuable input, by all means put it here, but lets leave the "I have been using xxxx-brand oil for xx,xxx miles..." etc, out of this thread so we can keep all the info in one place and people dont have to go sifting through the random stuff looking for it. Thanks all.
Cummins, PACCAR, CAT, International, Detroit, ASE Certified.
-2014 Mazda CX-5 Touring in Sky Blue Mica-2.5L of SkyActiv Awesomeness-20% tint all around, 5000k HID's w/ projector's--
2002 Ford Focus ZTW Limited Wagon-loaded, slammed, tinted, tunes and commuting. 170k miles and counting...
-cody: maintenance forum moderator
- Bridgestone/Firestone, Michelin/BFGoodrich certified
- ASE certified, Motor Vehicle Inspector, HVAC Licensed
- Lots more certs, too many to list here!
2001 Lexus IS300 - 500whp/476wtq (Mustang Dyno)PTE 6765/Custom AEM EMS - Auburn Sky Pearl (1 of 1348)
1999 Isuzu VehiCross 285/75-16 Destination MT's - Astral Silver Metallic (1 of 1021)