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Technical Help (by Mitsuguy and ArmyofOne)

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Old 10-11-11, 10:04 PM
  #121  
Cartune
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thank you!
Old 10-12-11, 05:31 AM
  #122  
imherenow
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Originally Posted by mitsuguy
So, our cars (as well as most every car made today), actually cut fuel from the injectors completely under deceleration... You can still coast down the hill with your foot off the gas, and still not waste any gas, in fact, you are probably using more fuel by putting it in neutral. When in gear and coasting down the hill, the inertia of the car keeps the engine spinning, even though it is not adding fuel to the engine. When you pull it out of gear to coast, now, the computer has to add fuel to keep the engine running...

Sitting at a stop light, well, hard to say whether it is helping fuel mileage or not... perhaps I'll datalog some stops and see how much fuel is used either way over a certain period of time...

it s not hurting the transmission at all either way...
ah gotchya thanks.....its just because i was reading somewhere that in some newer cars the engine shuts of completely when ur @ stop sign..plus wirh sooo much traffic sometimes i feel to put it in neutral to relieve the "stress" on engine..
just tryin to save gas/ and improve the life of engine..i love my Es300
Also i was thinking of removing full size spare tire and replacing with air pump and seal gel can instead...but then i do drive on hwy so incase the tires blow out badly, those seal gel can wont help
Old 10-12-11, 06:18 PM
  #123  
mitsuguy
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Originally Posted by imherenow
ah gotchya thanks.....its just because i was reading somewhere that in some newer cars the engine shuts of completely when ur @ stop sign..plus wirh sooo much traffic sometimes i feel to put it in neutral to relieve the "stress" on engine..
just tryin to save gas/ and improve the life of engine..i love my Es300
Also i was thinking of removing full size spare tire and replacing with air pump and seal gel can instead...but then i do drive on hwy so incase the tires blow out badly, those seal gel can wont help
There is a difference in new cars that the engine shuts off completely. They are typically hybrids, which means they can start moving as soon as you press the accelerator pedal, and while they start moving, they are restarting the engine as well. Also, hybrids generally use an Atkinson cycle engine, which is similar to an Otto cycle engine (common car engine), but uses differing valve timings and compressions to allow quicker startup. Besides, they are turning off completely, not just going into neutral.

The engine is not under any more stress while in drive and at a stop than it is in neutral. Perhaps a little more as far as the transmission is concerned, but nothing it wasn't designed to handle.

Removing excess weight is a definite way to save some fuel, but I highly doubt 50 lbs would be enough to be noticeable...
Old 10-12-11, 09:04 PM
  #124  
istarzan
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I know this is a Lexus thread but thought it wouldn't hurt to ask. My beater daily driver just died recently. Its a 96 Camry coupe I4. Bascialy I ran the engine with no oil, I know I know. And now it needs a new engine. Its in the shop now and was quoted $2300k parts and labor. The car is only worth 2-3k running.

I need advice on whether to fix it or not? I don't plan on selling it ever, and its my 1st car since I was 18 bought new. So there are some sentimental value to me. 2 door Camrys are rare, about 5000 produced . Its either fix, or sell to the scrapyard for $250.

I don't really need a second car as I hardly drive my IS350. I gotta make a decision by tomorrow. Thoughts, suggestions? Thanks.
Old 10-12-11, 09:09 PM
  #125  
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thats alot of $$$ for a I4. cant find a cheaper swap? GL
Old 10-12-11, 09:13 PM
  #126  
istarzan
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Originally Posted by Cartune
thats alot of $$$ for a I4. cant find a cheaper swap? GL
$850 is the cheapest engine I can find with 150k miles. They wanna put in a JDM engine for $2000 with 50k lol. So you think $850 is too much for I4?
Old 10-12-11, 09:42 PM
  #127  
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i guess they charging you arm and leg for the labor swap. engine wise that a decent price.
Old 10-13-11, 07:10 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by istarzan
I know this is a Lexus thread but thought it wouldn't hurt to ask. My beater daily driver just died recently. Its a 96 Camry coupe I4. Bascialy I ran the engine with no oil, I know I know. And now it needs a new engine. Its in the shop now and was quoted $2300k parts and labor. The car is only worth 2-3k running.

I need advice on whether to fix it or not? I don't plan on selling it ever, and its my 1st car since I was 18 bought new. So there are some sentimental value to me. 2 door Camrys are rare, about 5000 produced . Its either fix, or sell to the scrapyard for $250.

I don't really need a second car as I hardly drive my IS350. I gotta make a decision by tomorrow. Thoughts, suggestions? Thanks.
Sounds like a lot of money to spend on an older vehicle that really isn't anything special... Realistically, for the money you would spend on a used engine plus labor, you could probably buy a whole car and even if it had a few questionable bits, transfer from your existing car...

Just my opinion, of course...
Old 10-13-11, 07:17 PM
  #129  
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Any feedback about my question?
Old 10-13-11, 07:23 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Cartune
Any feedback about my question?
Sorry, its been busy at work... I haven't even had a chance to look up the wiring diagram for my car...

Let me see if I can find anything here...
Old 10-13-11, 07:24 PM
  #131  
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Its ok i understand
Old 10-13-11, 07:27 PM
  #132  
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Here ya go... someone with a Sienna had a similar / same problem - he was pretty thorough, and accurate as well... The Evap systems should be the same between your car and the Sienna - though the parts may be in different places, they still work the same....

http://www.findonefindall.com/toyota...evap_P0446.htm
Old 10-13-11, 08:19 PM
  #133  
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Thank you.hope its just a gas cap and my is300 is back to normal.
Old 10-14-11, 12:50 AM
  #134  
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I have a 2000 GS400 sometimes on a really hot day if i'm drivng really slow especially on an incline the car just stall but it turns back on without issues. What could be the cause of this? Bad fuel pump, voltage drop or maybe not enough ground? Thanks in advance.
Old 10-14-11, 11:09 AM
  #135  
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I am inclined to think fuel pump due to it being temperature related, but there could be other causes. We need more info. Do you have to wait to turn the vehicle back on or does it fire right back up? In either case, sounds like it could be very difficult to diagnose over the net. It could even be one of those things that difficult to recreate period.


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