mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Hard to tell unless your coolant was badly contaminated to start... Might have to just trust them on this one...

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Personally, extended warranties on a Lexus are next to pointless... If you are worried about things breaking down the line, take the money, put it in the highest interest savings account / whatever that you can and just sit on it... When you don't use it for repairs, use it as part of a downpayment on your next one... The reality is that unless you have a complete engine failure, or multiple big things go wrong with the car, that you will be money ahead...

It is a gamble, a little, but I wouldn't worry about it...

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

I am pretty sure those pieces bolt on from the inside of the car... You will need to remove any interior trim panels covering the backsides of them to get to the bolts holding them on... (again, most likely, just going by how other Lexus models are put together)

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Ok, let me get this straight - you have an aftermarket amp and sub, but the amp stays on all the time because the remote wire is not working properly?

Everything else audio related in the car is stock, it sounds like?

First off, so long as wires are properly insulated, power will not transfer from one to the other (except in certain situations, which will not occur in a car). Even if it did, it wouldn't be the full 12 volts required at the remote turn on lead... Couple things could have happened - sometimes when wiring, a single strand of copper from inside one of the wires crosses from the remote turn on lead to the +12v battery lead... the other thing that could be - your wire was not truly switched, but is +12v all the time...

I do not have a wiring diagram handy for your car, but I am sure one of the factory amp wires has a remote turn on lead you can tap in to. The other option is to probe inside the fuse box for a fuse that is switched on and off with the ignition - some will be, some will not. Once you find the switched power source, run another remote turn on lead to your amp...
Last but not least - is the amp working properly? Perhaps something is wrong with the amp causing it to be on all the time, regardless of the remote wire...

Brittman

Hello I have a LS400 with 215k miles.
My cel came on so I replaced the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, timing belt and water pump. I was receiving codes p0171, 0300, 0301, 0303, 0305, 0307, 1346, and 1349. I then went ahead and changed coils 1, 3, 5, and 7 but still majority of the same codes still appear except for 1346 & 0171 but now p0306 also comes up. I was thinking to change the ocv and check the filter but with this new misfire I'm not sure what's going on. I am a struggling student and in need of some expert advice

ArmyofOne

Thats alot of codes, does the car even run? 0306 is a bad coil I want to say, i will have to look it up.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

That is a lot of codes... Too many for me to not at least start by thinking they are all related... on my mobile right now - what year of car? I would start by checking timing... If its not that, next intuition says something terribly wrong in the wiring harness or ECM...

Check cam timing and get back to us...

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

P1346 & P1349 VVT system malfunction. P0171 system lean bank 1. I would check out the VVT system first. Some people are having the same problem in the RX300 forums also.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Definitely agree, now that I know that those two are VVTI codes, definitely makes sense...

cam timing and vvti system timing are a most likely cause, it sounds like...

definitely should have looked in to getting it fixed right the first time instead of just throwing parts at it...

imherenow

ok i had a question...so as you know it gets very busy in city during peak hours and lots of stop n go. So in order to (i guess) save as much gas as possible heres what i have being doing :
1) On a stop/red sign or when i m idling for sometime (due to traffic back up or accident) i put the shift into Neutral mode and when the traffic resumes i put in on Drive and i keep on doing it until i find that all is cleared and the traffic is flowing
2) Theres a section of road (not sure how long) that is downhill , so as i m approaching it i again put the shift into Neutral mode and let it "glide" thru the downhill road. And offcourse shifting back into Drive mode once the road flattens out

So my question is all this shifting into Neutral to Drive and vice versa ..Is that anyway harming the transmission..or any engine part in anyway..Or is it a good thing ??.. Offcourse i dont do it every second or so..but do it smoothly and hopefully in timied manner..
my car is 2000es300 and has about 100,662 miles onit..and i think transmission fluid was flushed once..

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

So, our cars (as well as most every car made today), actually cut fuel from the injectors completely under deceleration... You can still coast down the hill with your foot off the gas, and still not waste any gas, in fact, you are probably using more fuel by putting it in neutral. When in gear and coasting down the hill, the inertia of the car keeps the engine spinning, even though it is not adding fuel to the engine. When you pull it out of gear to coast, now, the computer has to add fuel to keep the engine running...

Sitting at a stop light, well, hard to say whether it is helping fuel mileage or not... perhaps I'll datalog some stops and see how much fuel is used either way over a certain period of time...

it s not hurting the transmission at all either way...

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

Actually, on any Fuel Injected vehicles, the PCM will cut off fuel during deceleration. That's the reason why you get high vacuum reading during deceleration.

Cartune

iTrader: (3)

Evap code. p0440 and p0446. my mpg is still the same. 20mpg city.

Need help pin pointing exact issue, instead trying this and that. i know its related to evap. checked all the hose, no loose hose. gas cap is good. what else could it be?

thanks for the help.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Actually, that is not why you get high vacuum, but, for the most part, as I already mentioned, you are correct that fuel is not typically injected under deceleration. Not typically, as in certain circumstances, it will be, depending on the vehicle and the circumstance.

The high vacuum reading is because of the higher engine speed upon deceleration pulling vacuum against the now closed throttle plate. You could still inject fuel and get vacuum, I can prove it with my emanage if you don't believe me.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Evap codes have no affect on fuel mileage. The evap system is designed to prevent fuel vapor from escaping the fuel tank and being released into the atmosphere. This vapor is responsible for a large part of emissions that do damage to the atmosphere.

On Toyota based cars, the most common reason for those codes is a failure in the purge solenoid - the solenoid responsible for venting vapor from the tank into the intake manifold to be burned with the intake charge...

I will check the exact codes tomorrow for a little more info...