Technical Help (by Mitsuguy and ArmyofOne)
06-25-13, 07:30 PM
#286
06-29-13, 01:01 AM
#287
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Intermitent "TRAC" light?
On my '93 SC400 (with ~209,000 miles), the "TRAC" light recently started turning on and off at random times. Sometimes when I'm sitting still in Park, sometimes when I'm cruising on the highway - it'll just spontaneously light up for a few minutes, and then turn off on it's own. Has anyone seen this problem before?
A little background: I recently completed some extensive maintenance work on the car - strictly for maintenance - not because it was experiencing any problems. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, idlers, tensioner, distributor caps and rotors, plugs and wires, valve cover gasket sets, vacuum lines, air filter, oil/coolant/fan-fluid flush, and oil pan gasket, as well as pressure-washing the under-carriage. While I was working on the motor, I had to take the throttle body off to get the valve cover off, which meant I had to disconnect the accellerator cables. I also removed the solenoid for one of the throttle plates (the first one) before I figured out that it wasn't necessary. I also replaced the vac lines for the traction control. The TRAC light started coming on as soon as I completed all this work, so It's gotta be related to that. I'm just not sure where to start looking for my mistake... could I have reversed the vac lines? Did I not get the throttle plate clocked to the right position? I'm not even sure how to adjust that properly... could it be the cable adjustment? Any other ideas? I'm open to suggestions.
Aside from the TRAC light coming on, everything seems to be running much better. It's running smoother, it has better power and throttle response, and I even gained about 2.5 mpg. The TRAC light doesn't seem to be causing any problems - it's just annoying me, and if I decide to sell the car, then it would lower the value.
Thanks!
~Laken
A little background: I recently completed some extensive maintenance work on the car - strictly for maintenance - not because it was experiencing any problems. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, idlers, tensioner, distributor caps and rotors, plugs and wires, valve cover gasket sets, vacuum lines, air filter, oil/coolant/fan-fluid flush, and oil pan gasket, as well as pressure-washing the under-carriage. While I was working on the motor, I had to take the throttle body off to get the valve cover off, which meant I had to disconnect the accellerator cables. I also removed the solenoid for one of the throttle plates (the first one) before I figured out that it wasn't necessary. I also replaced the vac lines for the traction control. The TRAC light started coming on as soon as I completed all this work, so It's gotta be related to that. I'm just not sure where to start looking for my mistake... could I have reversed the vac lines? Did I not get the throttle plate clocked to the right position? I'm not even sure how to adjust that properly... could it be the cable adjustment? Any other ideas? I'm open to suggestions.
Aside from the TRAC light coming on, everything seems to be running much better. It's running smoother, it has better power and throttle response, and I even gained about 2.5 mpg. The TRAC light doesn't seem to be causing any problems - it's just annoying me, and if I decide to sell the car, then it would lower the value.
Thanks!
~Laken
06-30-13, 12:18 AM
#288
That is an odd one for sure...
follow these instructions to see if any codes are set due to it... http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html
follow these instructions to see if any codes are set due to it... http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html
07-01-13, 02:16 PM
#289
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I made a thread but I was hoping someone would be able to provide a quicker response here.
I got a p0305 and p0300 code on a long trip (CYL 5 & Randome Misfire). My car was idling roughly and then stalled out (Check Engine flashing, VSC ON and OFF illuminated.
I changed the plugs (found coolant in the 5 & 6 valley). I determined there was no coolant leak, cleaned and fired everything up with the new Denso plugs in. She ran fine for an hour and stalled out once more. Soon after, I had check engine flashing, VSC ON and OFF lights illuminated again. I had it towed to my local Toyota dealer and after them saying nothing was wrong with the car, It happened again. I took it back for a second time. Then.....AGAIN so I dropped it off for the third time and they just called me saying they determined it wasn't the plugs or coils but the actual wiring harness itself "must be losing voltage somewhere on its way to the coils" and needs to be replaced.
Now I know this sounds stupid, seeing how I paid 139$ for the diagnostic. It seems like they're just guessing at what it could be. The manager explained that they cannot just splice new wires into a harness since it seems like one is shorting and it will cost a WHOPPING $1,872 for a new one installed. I am at a loss for what to do because I am a poor student. Do you guys have any ideas?
Thanks for your time fellow GS lovers.
I got a p0305 and p0300 code on a long trip (CYL 5 & Randome Misfire). My car was idling roughly and then stalled out (Check Engine flashing, VSC ON and OFF illuminated.
I changed the plugs (found coolant in the 5 & 6 valley). I determined there was no coolant leak, cleaned and fired everything up with the new Denso plugs in. She ran fine for an hour and stalled out once more. Soon after, I had check engine flashing, VSC ON and OFF lights illuminated again. I had it towed to my local Toyota dealer and after them saying nothing was wrong with the car, It happened again. I took it back for a second time. Then.....AGAIN so I dropped it off for the third time and they just called me saying they determined it wasn't the plugs or coils but the actual wiring harness itself "must be losing voltage somewhere on its way to the coils" and needs to be replaced.
Now I know this sounds stupid, seeing how I paid 139$ for the diagnostic. It seems like they're just guessing at what it could be. The manager explained that they cannot just splice new wires into a harness since it seems like one is shorting and it will cost a WHOPPING $1,872 for a new one installed. I am at a loss for what to do because I am a poor student. Do you guys have any ideas?
Thanks for your time fellow GS lovers.
07-01-13, 02:38 PM
#290
Assuming you are in a 6 cyl GS, none of that stuff is very easy to get to unfortunately...
The random misfire in conjunction with cyl #5 can be a little misleading, however, their diagnosis could be accurate. Unfortunately, through the dealer or many repair shops, replacing pieces of an engine wiring harness just aren't part of how they fix things, and the fact that the wiring harness is all one piece, that may be their only option.
That being said, got some things we can try, just none super easy... first off - ensure it isn't a coil - if it was a coil, typically you would be seeing misfires on cylinder #2 as well - and you may be (that may be part of the random misfire)... either way, the key would be to remove the coil and wire for cylinder $5 and #2 and swap it for 1 and 6 or 3 & 4... if the code and misfires follow where the coil is now installed, it is a coil problem... i If it doesn't follow, then it is wiring harness, ignitor or something wrong with the coil boot or spark plug (or something internal engine related which is unlikely)... replacing wires isn't the end of the world but it is definitely a pain... might be just the pigtail where the wire goes into the clip for the injector - much easier, still hard to get to....
The random misfire in conjunction with cyl #5 can be a little misleading, however, their diagnosis could be accurate. Unfortunately, through the dealer or many repair shops, replacing pieces of an engine wiring harness just aren't part of how they fix things, and the fact that the wiring harness is all one piece, that may be their only option.
That being said, got some things we can try, just none super easy... first off - ensure it isn't a coil - if it was a coil, typically you would be seeing misfires on cylinder #2 as well - and you may be (that may be part of the random misfire)... either way, the key would be to remove the coil and wire for cylinder $5 and #2 and swap it for 1 and 6 or 3 & 4... if the code and misfires follow where the coil is now installed, it is a coil problem... i If it doesn't follow, then it is wiring harness, ignitor or something wrong with the coil boot or spark plug (or something internal engine related which is unlikely)... replacing wires isn't the end of the world but it is definitely a pain... might be just the pigtail where the wire goes into the clip for the injector - much easier, still hard to get to....
07-01-13, 02:40 PM
#292
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Assuming you are in a 6 cyl GS, none of that stuff is very easy to get to unfortunately...
The random misfire in conjunction with cyl #5 can be a little misleading, however, their diagnosis could be accurate. Unfortunately, through the dealer or many repair shops, replacing pieces of an engine wiring harness just aren't part of how they fix things, and the fact that the wiring harness is all one piece, that may be their only option.
That being said, got some things we can try, just none super easy... first off - ensure it isn't a coil - if it was a coil, typically you would be seeing misfires on cylinder #2 as well - and you may be (that may be part of the random misfire)... either way, the key would be to remove the coil and wire for cylinder $5 and #2 and swap it for 1 and 6 or 3 & 4... if the code and misfires follow where the coil is now installed, it is a coil problem... i If it doesn't follow, then it is wiring harness, ignitor or something wrong with the coil boot or spark plug (or something internal engine related which is unlikely)... replacing wires isn't the end of the world but it is definitely a pain... might be just the pigtail where the wire goes into the clip for the injector - much easier, still hard to get to....
The random misfire in conjunction with cyl #5 can be a little misleading, however, their diagnosis could be accurate. Unfortunately, through the dealer or many repair shops, replacing pieces of an engine wiring harness just aren't part of how they fix things, and the fact that the wiring harness is all one piece, that may be their only option.
That being said, got some things we can try, just none super easy... first off - ensure it isn't a coil - if it was a coil, typically you would be seeing misfires on cylinder #2 as well - and you may be (that may be part of the random misfire)... either way, the key would be to remove the coil and wire for cylinder $5 and #2 and swap it for 1 and 6 or 3 & 4... if the code and misfires follow where the coil is now installed, it is a coil problem... i If it doesn't follow, then it is wiring harness, ignitor or something wrong with the coil boot or spark plug (or something internal engine related which is unlikely)... replacing wires isn't the end of the world but it is definitely a pain... might be just the pigtail where the wire goes into the clip for the injector - much easier, still hard to get to....
I assume at dealerships they use the scan tool to get air,fuel, ignition, timing etc? I wonder why nothings showing up if they ARE using that type of tool.
07-01-13, 02:57 PM
#293
Thanks for the response. They swapped out the plugs and coils to see if that was the problem and they said they were in working order.
I assume at dealerships they use the scan tool to get air,fuel, ignition, timing etc? I wonder why nothings showing up if they ARE using that type of tool.
I assume at dealerships they use the scan tool to get air,fuel, ignition, timing etc? I wonder why nothings showing up if they ARE using that type of tool.
each coil is only two wires... you could easily buy the plugs and run the wires back to the ECU yourself...
07-01-13, 03:57 PM
#294
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They definitely are... which makes it likely they are on the right track... just doesn't seem right that the car would die completely... I had a couple injectors unplugged on accident and my car still started and ran once like that... that is way worse than a misfire...
each coil is only two wires... you could easily buy the plugs and run the wires back to the ECU yourself...
each coil is only two wires... you could easily buy the plugs and run the wires back to the ECU yourself...
Also is there any writeups on how to do it or is there a type of specialty shop I should take it to?
07-01-13, 04:05 PM
#295
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Supra...-/230968340193
something like that... buy some 18 gauge wiring, find where the wires go into the ECU box and connect them there...
doubtful there is a write up, and to be honest, may not need to even run the whole wire, it is most likely just the connector itself, but, might as well be on the safe side...
something like that... buy some 18 gauge wiring, find where the wires go into the ECU box and connect them there...
doubtful there is a write up, and to be honest, may not need to even run the whole wire, it is most likely just the connector itself, but, might as well be on the safe side...
07-01-13, 04:25 PM
#296
http://forums.jdmvip.com/Aristo_JZS1..._Aristo-5743-t
Hey guys, I have a good update and hope this helps others. I believe the issue is solved since I was surprised that the car went past the infamous 30 minute record and went for two hours until I decided the issue should be resolved.
What was the problem?
It was ignition, specifically the front coil pack connectors, the housing for the leads that connect to the coil pack was broken (the leads going into the housing are broken for all of them).
What did you initially think the problem was?
1. A mechanic told me it was the fuel pump.
2. When the fuel pump didn't solve it, I thought it may be the FPR.
What did you learn (sorry for my own reference somewhat to update threads/make new threads)?
1.) The VVTi JDM 2JZ-GTE uses TE1 and TC connectors to report fault codes, not the TE1 and E1 that other models including even tudor's 1JZ-GTE uses. I find this to be quite strange and I only found out by fluke when I was searching.
2.) The Aristo JZS161 must use the Walbro GSS342 and not the 341 (the 341 will not fit the assembly as it is oriented the wrong way).
a.) Not all gaskets are required for the assembly but they must be inserted in the correct way (not orientation) but in a correct order and a certain side. (if you hear splashing in your gas tank, assume you've assembled it wrong).
b.) You need to use the connectors supplied by Walbro, it appears the stock connectors fit but they actually won't work because they don't make contact internally properly (verified by a start condition).
I did a bunch of troubleshooting and at first the coil pack connectors looked fine but they are actually all broken, but the front set was the issue. They were twisted and not making full contact, the solution was to slide them out of the already broken connector housing and plug them in directly (I'll try and get a pic here when I can) as the connector was actually the issue.
Thanks to everyone but specifically the info that helped and stuck in my mind was hunter's coil pack issue, though I question if he's still having an issue (not sure if it's resolved for him 100%) maybe his coil pack (despite the arcing) is fine and the connectors are the issue like with my case? The reason I say that is because they're all bad on my car. I also remembered RyanV's insistence that I check the coil pack connections (I believe it was him by memory at least lol) and also very important was Megatol's quick help in verifying the fault codes here to be based on the ignition.
Here's a question for experts/Megatol?
1. What's wrong with the design that the failure or lack of electricity/contact through a single coil pack can cause the whole car to die? In most cars a bad coil pack/connection would mean you would lose a single cylinder but the whole car won't die. I do notice that it seems the coil pack setup is weird, it seems one is an actual coil pack that sits on the spark plug, and then a second boot daisy chains off it.
What was the problem?
It was ignition, specifically the front coil pack connectors, the housing for the leads that connect to the coil pack was broken (the leads going into the housing are broken for all of them).
What did you initially think the problem was?
1. A mechanic told me it was the fuel pump.
2. When the fuel pump didn't solve it, I thought it may be the FPR.
What did you learn (sorry for my own reference somewhat to update threads/make new threads)?
1.) The VVTi JDM 2JZ-GTE uses TE1 and TC connectors to report fault codes, not the TE1 and E1 that other models including even tudor's 1JZ-GTE uses. I find this to be quite strange and I only found out by fluke when I was searching.
2.) The Aristo JZS161 must use the Walbro GSS342 and not the 341 (the 341 will not fit the assembly as it is oriented the wrong way).
a.) Not all gaskets are required for the assembly but they must be inserted in the correct way (not orientation) but in a correct order and a certain side. (if you hear splashing in your gas tank, assume you've assembled it wrong).
b.) You need to use the connectors supplied by Walbro, it appears the stock connectors fit but they actually won't work because they don't make contact internally properly (verified by a start condition).
I did a bunch of troubleshooting and at first the coil pack connectors looked fine but they are actually all broken, but the front set was the issue. They were twisted and not making full contact, the solution was to slide them out of the already broken connector housing and plug them in directly (I'll try and get a pic here when I can) as the connector was actually the issue.
Thanks to everyone but specifically the info that helped and stuck in my mind was hunter's coil pack issue, though I question if he's still having an issue (not sure if it's resolved for him 100%) maybe his coil pack (despite the arcing) is fine and the connectors are the issue like with my case? The reason I say that is because they're all bad on my car. I also remembered RyanV's insistence that I check the coil pack connections (I believe it was him by memory at least lol) and also very important was Megatol's quick help in verifying the fault codes here to be based on the ignition.
Here's a question for experts/Megatol?
1. What's wrong with the design that the failure or lack of electricity/contact through a single coil pack can cause the whole car to die? In most cars a bad coil pack/connection would mean you would lose a single cylinder but the whole car won't die. I do notice that it seems the coil pack setup is weird, it seems one is an actual coil pack that sits on the spark plug, and then a second boot daisy chains off it.
07-01-13, 05:02 PM
#297
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I figured I would just buy the 3 plastic connector clips. I'm not sure what the metal fork things are in the picture. Do I have to get those too? I didn't see those things when I replaced my spark plugs the first time. (amateur mechanic :/ )
If this is the problem I cannot believe the Toyota tech didn't see that the clips were broken like I did. It's obvious. Do you think I would be out of line asking for my $136 diagnosis fee back? I feel like just saying "yeah its the harness, $1800 please" is not a diagnosis.
Thanks for the help by the way. You're a life saver.
07-01-13, 05:05 PM
#298
I figured I would just buy the 3 plastic connector clips. I'm not sure what the metal fork things are in the picture. Do I have to get those too? I didn't see those things when I replaced my spark plugs the first time. (amateur mechanic :/ )
If this is the problem I cannot believe the Toyota tech didn't see that the clips were broken like I did. It's obvious. Do you think I would be out of line asking for my $136 diagnosis fee back? I feel like just saying "yeah its the harness, $1800 please" is not a diagnosis.
Thanks for the help by the way. You're a life saver.
If this is the problem I cannot believe the Toyota tech didn't see that the clips were broken like I did. It's obvious. Do you think I would be out of line asking for my $136 diagnosis fee back? I feel like just saying "yeah its the harness, $1800 please" is not a diagnosis.
Thanks for the help by the way. You're a life saver.
Unfortunately, they told you what was wrong, they charge a flat rate for diagnosis, whether it is a vacuum line that came off or a severe problem...
07-08-13, 04:05 PM
#299
so the rear left control arm went bad. i was @ dealer and that what they said it..to be more specific they said lower rear most control arm. so i was wondering how hard is it to change and do i need to like special precautions? or just unbolt, remove, and put in new one. i dont want to go to dealer
01-06-14, 11:50 AM
#300
Trying to figure out if my air-mix servo(s) are acting up or is it just the normal operation.
I have noticed this particularly when it is very cold (below 30 is very cold for us the South) and the car has been sitting overnight but it seems the temperature is kind of wacky. For instance, I am driving to work, car is fully warmed up and I normally don't take my jacket or fleece off so I don't want it to be 80 degrees in the cabin. I set my system to manual mode and put the temp to lets say 68 degrees. The air coming out of the vent will be much hotter, like around 80 degrees.
At times, it just seems to be getting really hot so I set it to max cold and it works as it should. Pumping in full cold air form the outside. Anyway, the servo's are not making any weird noises or anything as in normal failures. Just trying to figure out how much is manual and how much is the system doing things by itself. Basically, is it normal to have a 15 or 20 degree difference between max cold and 66 degrees. This does not seem right but if the servo is looking at cabin temperature vs air temperate coming out the vent then maybe it is.
Also, I think there is some kind of mode you can put the HVAC in to let you know if the servo detected any error. Don't know if anyone knows about this. A few Lexus dealers I called mentioned that they system is very automated, even in manual mode and LS430's are not known to have problems with the air/mix servo's compared to other models.
I have noticed this particularly when it is very cold (below 30 is very cold for us the South) and the car has been sitting overnight but it seems the temperature is kind of wacky. For instance, I am driving to work, car is fully warmed up and I normally don't take my jacket or fleece off so I don't want it to be 80 degrees in the cabin. I set my system to manual mode and put the temp to lets say 68 degrees. The air coming out of the vent will be much hotter, like around 80 degrees.
At times, it just seems to be getting really hot so I set it to max cold and it works as it should. Pumping in full cold air form the outside. Anyway, the servo's are not making any weird noises or anything as in normal failures. Just trying to figure out how much is manual and how much is the system doing things by itself. Basically, is it normal to have a 15 or 20 degree difference between max cold and 66 degrees. This does not seem right but if the servo is looking at cabin temperature vs air temperate coming out the vent then maybe it is.
Also, I think there is some kind of mode you can put the HVAC in to let you know if the servo detected any error. Don't know if anyone knows about this. A few Lexus dealers I called mentioned that they system is very automated, even in manual mode and LS430's are not known to have problems with the air/mix servo's compared to other models.