SpinAll4

There are a lot of misconceptions about Synthetic motor oils. I see some here on Clublexus, and hear people talking about it elsewhere. Some of the stuff people come up with is just unbelievable.

This thread is not:

A place to make unsupported claims about oil. Please research and post a link to a website where you have found your information, so you are backed up.

Common misconceptions (other people feel free to ad to this list):


Does synthetic oil CAUSE oil leaks?
Links:


A: Motorhome magazine http://www.motorhomemagazine.com/output.cfm?ID=1175905

Answer:
Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. The only thing it will do is make any existing leaks (big or small) leak more because it penetrates better than conventional oil does- and it will make really small leaks more visible (a blessing in disguise?). So if your car has an oil leak, fix it before you switch, save yourself some money.

My daily driven 250k mile Honda civic has AMSOIL in it. There were a couple of small oil leaks in it when I got it, and they haven't gotten any bigger in the 10k mi of me driving on full synthetic AMSOIL.

Is synthetic oil thinner than conventional?

Answer: Modern motor oils (both synthetic and dyno) need to meet Auto manufacturer and SAE requirements for viscosity. 5W30 synthetic is 5W30. It is the same viscosity as 5W30 conventional. It has to be in order to have the SAE stamp of approval!

Can I switch to synthetic oil on an engine with high miles on it?
Links:
A: Mobil’s website http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/..._Vehicles.aspx
B: Krane’s Synthetic Oil Bible http://www-d0.fnal.gov/~jkrane/cars/synth_survey.html

Answer:
Yes, you can definitely switch to synthetic motor oil in a high mileage engine. The only possible draw back is an increase in the SIZE of any existing oil leaks. Basically it makes small leaks more noticeable. It in no way “causes” leaks. If you have huge oil leaks, fix them before you switch to save yourself some money..

Can you use synthetic motor oil as a break in oil?

Answer:

I sell full synthetic, and I would not recommend it for break in. It has nothing to do with compatibility, rings seating, ect.

Its all about cost. When we break in a built motor, its started on the cheapest crap oil we can find (Walmart cheapo works well), the motor warms up and we change out the oil and filter. Then it depends on how **** you builder is. If it were my motor, I would do one again after 25 miles, 250 miles, 500 miles and again at 1000 mi to the Synthetic oil of choice. It seems stupid to risk a built motor over a couple of dollars worth of oil. There are tons of crap in your oil when breaking in a motor, and you want to get that crap out as quickly as possible by changing the oil alot.


Switching back and forth:
Quote: I've heard once you use synthetic oil that you can't switch back to conventional oil. true/false?

Answer: false.
You can switch back and forth all you want. You can also mix them if you want.


I would like to invite anyone to ask questions, and comment on this.


There are manufactures our there calling group III hydro cracked oil a "synthetic". Beware of what you put in your car based on hype. Why do I like AMSOIL so much? Because out of all the manufactures they push used oil analysis to actually determine when its the right time to change your oil.

socalJD

Not sure why this thread is in the Vendors Marketplace, but I gotta be honest with you, it doesn't inspire me to buy syn oil . . .

jcrome04

Good info for people who might be curious or interested though.


I'm a Mobil1 5W30 full synth guy

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Let me just one make one statement here... If your car is under warranty, whether manufacturer or extended aftermarket, and you have a lubrication failure or oil leak of any sort, or even any type of internal engine failure, and you do not follow the manufacturers oil change interval, you WILL be **** out of luck when you take your car in for warranty service if you can't provide proof of scheduled maintenance, no matter what the oil company tells you is ok... For instance - Mobil1 has their oil that they internally rate at 5000 mile oil change intervals, however, Ford still says change the oil every 3000 miles... If you have an engine problem on that Ford, and you didn't follow Ford's oil change intervals, your warranty claim will be denied... Then when you go to Mobil1, you'll have to prove that their oil caused the failure...

SpinAll4

We got it moved!

SpinAll4

Lets go even one step further. When you have a problem, the manufacturer will do everything possible to not pay for the warranty claim. Its simple, less warranty claims means more profits.

I'm not saying everyone has to jump on board and do an oil change every 35k miles when they have a brand new car with a warranty the want to keep. If you look in the owners manual, most manufactures don't even recommend a 3,000 mi oil change interval for most normal drivers. Most recommend 4,5,6 thousand miles or more.

Now, I'm the type of person where what I do to a car, with all the modds, ect the last thing I'm worried about is the oil change interval I followed voided the warranty. If some people are worried about it, AMSOIL makes a 6,000 mi oil change interval synthetic blend. Or you could run one of the cheaper full synthetics from AMSOIL and drain every 6,000 mi.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Correct, most manufacturers now call for 5k oil change intervals, but not all... Ford is still 3000, Toyotas are 5000, Nissan 3750, Chevy - once a year or when the computer says so... obviously there are exceptions, but you get the idea... Anyways, if you mod a car, the manufacturer would have to prove that your modification caused the damage to void that particular parts warranty per the Magnusson Moss Act... But if you aren't changing the oil on time, it's automatic void of the complete engine warranty...

Rock-a-Lex

iTrader: (4)

Great write-up Spinall4! This should be a sticky! Thanks again...

bondman2

nice write up.... and good information Mobil 1 is all i've ever used in my 03 Cobra and now my 06 IS 350

MrG4Life

iTrader: (14)

I'm under the belief that synthetic oil is somewhat thinner than conventional and because of this, I have been switching to this type during the colder months. I do this thinking that the oil (because its thinner) will better circulate throughout the engine after you start it when you have temps in the single digits or teens the night before. But since I have a remote-start, I wonder if its even worth it to pay more for synthetic. I was doing this to make sure that my car's engine parts were properly lubricated after I pull off. And there are those mornings where you are running late and tend to to drive a bit hard at first when your late.

SpinAll4

What you really need to find is an oil with good cold flow. Synthetic oil will generally have a better cold pour point. I'm going to post up some comparative testing later on today that will show you which oils are good at it.