19psi

get the actual code and i'll tell you what to buy...

scottie24

hey guys, i got my problem figured out. i had a bad MAF sensor as well. O changed it and the O2 sensor in bank 1 after teh cat and the car runs perfectly fine. I believe it was the MAF sensor though that fixed the problem.

fallabel

Code is PO135.

19psi

P0135 is the heater circuit in the 02 sensor. definitely is the 02 sensor.

fallabel

Follow-up question:

I told the Check Engine Code # to the garage, and they still are going to charge a diagnosis fee because "our inspection is very thorough and takes an hour, compared to the 20 second check that AutoZone did".

Are they fleecing me, or is that legitimate? Should I find a garage that will just replace the part based on the code?

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

If you brought it to my shop, I would tell you the same thing...

Here's the deal, it's a cover your *** situation... On the internet here, I am free to make suggestions based on a code and symptoms, but in the real world, guessing (even an educated guess) just doesn't cut it...

if they replace that part, and the light comes back, it leaves them open to complaint "well, you replaced this, but it didn't fix it, the light is back" Which they are trying to avoid obviously... whereas if they do the diagnostic (which will be more intense than just pulling a code - they'll probably test the circuit and such), they'll be sure that what they are going to do will fix the issue... chances are if you want them to just replace the part, they'll have you sign something saying that you understand it may/may not take care of the problem...

here's the scenario with your code which is o2 sensor heater circuit, iirc... there are a couple things that cause that - faulty sensor, bad wiring, bad ECM... if they guess and replace the o2 sensor, and the problem still exists, trying to appease a pissed off customer could mean replacing the ECM, which is not a cheap task... so, they err on the side of caution...

keep all of this in mind.... obviously replacing the o2 sensor is the cheapest (short of splicing a frayed wire), and is where I would start if I was guessing at a fix, it is the most common...

19psi

^ what he said. nobody wants to be held accountable for something they didn't get to verify the first time.

Gunnut

I agree but have to ask:
Why don't they ever question you if you come in for an oil change?

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Because it's so straight forward, and if we find an issue with what they want, at most its like a $25 ticket, and the problem if any is found quickly (leaky drain plug, leaky filter, stripped drain plug, so on and so forth)

But, things I do question people about, specifically:
alignments (most people think an alignment will fix all pulling and shaking, where it might be a tire issue)
engine parts replacement (obvious, as mentioned above)
coolant flush (probably not going to fix an overheating car)
transmission flush/service (if the trans is slipping, its a good chance this will not fix the issue unless its severely low)

There are others I'm sure, I just can't think of...

I will tell you this, somewhat recently, I did ask a lady why she wanted an oil change - I was asking her what type of oil she wanted, asked what type of driving she did, and she responded with, oh, I've just never changed the oil in this truck... it was a 4.7L Toyota Tundra, 2002 model... Assuming she just bought it, I asked how long she had had the truck, to which I was told, "since new" Meaning, she had 5 years and 42000 miles on the original oil.... there was only about 3 quarts in the crank case, and was starting to smoke...

what an idiot...

truth is, as a shop service manager, it's very hard to trust customers, so you get as much information as possible - customers lie, they leave out important information all the time - which I don't understand, it's like they feel guilty about something and don't want us to find out, where all we are trying to do is help...

19psi

what is it with people going so long on oil changes lately? i've seen a bunch of htem esp. on the 3.0 lexus/toyota engine going 20k + between oil changes. makes me think they're just taking advantage of that recall toyota volunteered for the sludgers...

Gunnut

Thanks for the insightful reply. You can work on my car anyday. Luckily, I have a mechanic who treats his customers as you do. Selling only what needs sold and thinking of the customer first.
JimA

fallabel

That's shocking to hear about oil changes...how can people not know that you're supposed to do that? When I bought my car (used), I was paranoid if I got to 3001 miles, since I'd always heard that 3000 miles was the proper interval. Owners' manual says 7500; should I be changing it more often than that since the car is old and has alot of mileage (140000)? I change it approximately every 4000 miles currently.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

I'll tell you what I tell my customers and what I do myself... 3000-5000 mile interval... It's hard to say exactly at what mileage it really needs changed, but most manufacturers are saying 5000 miles, including Toyota... everyone drives differently, has different lengths of drive, and it all matters... so, if you get it in that window, you should be good...

basis for that suggestion - if you know 5000 is the upper limit, but know you should do it as early as every 3000 miles, it'll give you a good sized window to do it at your convenience...

gumbyslex

ok guys. so im ready to change my sensor that went out..., the only problem is that i dont know which one exactly it is that i have to change... its the bank 1 sensor 2 on the 02 is300 model...can anyone help me out and tell me if its the one under the sear or before the cat conv..

19psi

it's going to be the one after the cat.