Lex Luthor

Gene, I guess I should have figured out the Wally World thing, you got me on that one. As far as getting by in NY, you may have me on that one too. In regards to the coolant contamination issue, I wasn't concerned about the intervals, I am a type A as well, I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't a potentially corrosive environment to the aluminum. When you refer to those 'few teaspoons,' I must assume you mean converting the coolant in reference to longevity, not corrosiveness, correct? I'm not even sure what's in there now, if it's the DexCool or not, I just want to be prepared for either contingency, what with being a type A and all, i'm sure you understand. I guess the real question is how thoroughly does the system need to be flushed in regards to maintaining the anti-corrosive properties of the new, red coolant? If I might stray off on a tangent, I'll probably replace the t-stat and o-ring as well, I wonder if that TRD 170deg t-stat fits the 1UZ? Also, while i'm sitting here ordering parts, any input on plug wires? I know the OE wires are excellent, but Magnecor makes some of the best wires in the business, any thoughts? I figure i'll also use the Denso Iridium plugs, .040 gap should be otay, unless there's something mas bueno.........

Mean Gene

Lex - Yep, my Texaco sources say that the contamination will affect only the longevity issue IF the "other" coolant was certified OK for use in aluminium radiators. Most of the newer coolants ( since the mid-90's, I'd guess ) were redesigned for aluminium so if U know what was used before the advent of the DexKool stuff, U're up to speed on things. Concerning ignition stuff - I've used Jacob's Electronics parts for years & think extremely high of their products & business ethics. I E-beamed them a few months ago about improving the GS4 ignition & they returned the correspondence the same day with the statement that " as much as they'd like to do business with me, they HADN'T been able to improve the stock ignition system enough to justify offering anything for the GS4 model!!":eek: How's that for honesty?! As a side note, my fellow Audio moderator Percy swears by TorqueMaster plugs. www.torquemaster.com I haven't tried them as of yet but plan on ordering a set ( at $8/plug, they BETTER be good!! ) & making a trip to my friend's speed shop where I do my dyno testing. Gonna do a baseline test with old & then new Lexus iridium plugs & then a third test with the TM plugs. Thank God it's a simple matter to change the plugs on the GS - I'll do it while the car's cooling down between dyno pulls. Won't be until next year but I'll post whatever I come up with at that time. Might want to do some more research before U do that T-stat change to a cooler one. I've heard that the Lexus ECU is calibrated for a certain coolant temperature range & if U stray too far out of, that wonderful "Check Engine" light comes on!! Just something to look out for - doesn't it get cold enough up there for U as it is??!!

Lex Luthor

Gene, as usual, thanks for the rapid response. Rest assured, anytime you're up my way, you'll have a space to keep your GS in. OK, this is where i'm at - got 6qts 5W30 M1 and M1 102 filter, can motor flush (my first oil change since I bought it, I like to flush whenever I purchase a used vehicle), 2gals Havoline DexCool ($7.49ea @PepBoys, not bad), 2gals Poland Spring distilled, Prestone Flush-n-Fill kit, 2qts M1 75W90 gear lube, 20oz Techron, and F.I. air intake clnr (you know, for the t-body/IAC deposits).
Next - pr. caps and pr. rotors from Lexus, Lexus plug wires (or Magnecor or Vitek, if anyone has tried them, let me know), set of Denso Iridium plugs (OE is Denso Platinum, no? Know a decent source for the Iridiums? I'd rather not pay $11/plug. Plan to gap to .040, should give a complete burn, Lexus PCV valve, Lexus fuel filter, chg fan fluid, pressurized injector cleaning (just for peace of mind), and trans fluid and filter. Come Monday, i'll call Red Line and Royal Purple re: something compatible with the T4 fluid, i'll let you know Gene (yes, i'll ask about my 4spd OD and your 5spd OD).
Gene, concerning Jacobs, I have used them as well and have found their ignition components to be top-notch, but I don't feel their plug wires are the best out there (unless you mean those ceramic-boot beauties), nor am I aware of a set they make for either my SC4 or your GS4. I have to admit though, I have never seen such candor from a manufacturer before, that's definitely refreshing, plus now you know you won't be buying a GS OmniPack anytime soon! I've heard some good things about the Torque Master plugs, as well as the Splitfire (same basic principle, as you know), but having seen some dyno sheets showing decent gains, and hearing about how the Iridiums have cleared up the top end on some boosted/juice motors, i'd like to give them a try. In regards to the TRD t-stat, you raise a very valid point re: the ECU's sensitivity to coolant temp range, I remember building up a few tuned port motors about ten years ago, and a lower t-stat would affect the transission from open-loop to closed-loop, and vise-versa, so I think i'll wait a bit on that one, until I can do more research (matter of fact, I doubt i'll change the t-stat at all, probably not necessary, even for preventative reasons). Anything i've missed? I haven't even received my service manual yet, but as far as I understand it, there is no timing adjustment, it is all controlled through the ECU, correct? That's a shame, now i'll have to figure out how to have a retard function for the juice system i'm designing, the ECU probably puts it somewhere around 10-13deg BTDC, no good for the hit.

Mean Gene

Lex - Yes, I understand that all the timing's controlled by the ECU system. According to my shop manual it appears that about all we can do is to change plugs & check the continuity of the plug wires ( FYI - Lexus calls for a maximium new plug gap of .043 ). Still waiting on Venom/Python Injection to complete testing/development of their computer controlled nitrous kit for the GS4. Run plenty of squeeze over the years so I know that I'll need to drop down to a colder plug range ( at least 1 step for certain ). Latest info from them still shows them to be a few months away so I might get impatient & try the Nitrous Express kit. I had a Lingenfelter TPI Corvette & remember that HyperTech offered a T-stat ( called a "Powerstat" ) but U also needed their CalPak computer chip to properly utilize it or the open loop/closed loop situation U described would occur. Seems like U've got the basics covered for your coolant change & tune up. Gonna be a busy holiday for ya, huh!! Thanks for the offer of shelter for the GS but when I go to NY, I fly. However, I'll keep ya posted the next time I'm due to go there & maybe we can hook up - I'm really a small town boy & don't venture out much when the business day's over. While I'm a huge Atlanta Braves fan, wouldn't mind checking out the Yankees so maybe we can work it out.

Lex Luthor

Yanks/Braves, hmmm. Grew up near Yankee Stadium AND Shea, got to catch plenty of games for both teams, but the best was the two games I went to from the '86 series, the Mets had a great team then. Anyways, TPI was my bread and butter for years (I mean literally, that hidden fogger system paid the rent quite a few times), so i'm very familiar with big John's products, as well as Hypertech, ADS, Myron Cotrell at TPiS (I must have paid for his kid's dental work in the late 80's-early 90's), Ed Hamburger at SLP, Guldstrand, all those guys. I used Hypertech's CalPak along with their 'Powerstat' (simply a 180deg unit in place of the OE 195deg), but the car was still a bit fishy. Then again, I was probably pushing the limits in terms of cam profiles, runner sizing, and the like, but we considered ourselves some of the first to make these tuned port motors boogie on the street, as you probably were as well. When the Accel DFI came along, most guys that were serious went right to that, though I had moved on to turbo Buicks by then. Funny, you can take a brand new LS1 f-body, remove the intake silencer, ice the intake, throw a set of slicks on it, and hit a hi 12 just like that, how times have changed (then again, maybe not, I was turning decent times with an '84 T-Type with '87 GN drivetrain, with just a homemade ram air and a 'fish tank valve'! If you've had any serious street action, you'll know what that one is). As for juice on our cars, I think the future is bright. These 1UZ motors are as over-engineered as the 2JZ, press-in 6bolt mains, forged internals, big-@ss oil pickup, webbed block, IT'S IN THERE! I was looking at the NX kit, or perhaps i'll make my own, but i'm quite sure it'll take a bit hit, Clint Pohler SC300tt agrees. Todd Matsubura 'doublewoosh' from TM Engineering was hitting 12.30s stock SC4 with ignition and a 175-shot NOS Fogger Annular Discharge on slicks n' skinnies, and there's a local guy here with an IS3 with the stock 2JZ running a freakin' 200-shot, he runs 13.0's with a Pro Torque converter and baby 26x8.5 ET Drags. If we can sort out the timing retard issue, these 4-valve heads should flow N2O like a *****', provided the cam profiles don't provide for too much overlap, and the exhaust is opened up, of course. Given the right amount of fuel and the aforementioned retard, I would be comfortable setting up a 150-175hp system, assuming I don't fit a remote bottle opener , that thing is the devil.

Mean Gene

Lex - I agree that the bottom end's already there for squeezing but there seems to be a question concerning the fuel system. SRT claims that in it's stock condition, it can only support 400 engine HP. If U've already done their intake, then U only have ( in theory & IF Mo's right ) about 75 hp more to play with ( & this assumes 100% duty cycle on the injectors which we both know generally go static at about 85% ). Even NOS doesn't have a kit for the returnless fuel line GS system ( yet ) but the NX kit's been around for well over a year. Even a company called Texas Nitrous has done some kits but they fabricate a return line & use a generic kit designed for a FORD!!:eek: Still, several Members have run on the bottle for several months now & report no problems. Just concerned about the fuel issue - it's one thing to grenade a small block Chevy motor that U can pickup in a salvage yard ( been there/done that!! ) & quite another ( from a money standpoint especially ) to do the same to a Lexus ( heard that the GS shortblock goes for upwards of $5k!!:eek: ). Talking with Venom, it seems that their use of computer controlled solenoids & a stand alone ECU to monitor the engine itself before even allowing the nitrous to be injected is the ticket to bring nitrous use into the computer age but they're taking forever ( kit cost should be close to $1200, I'm told ).

Erfan

Good stuff there It makes me want to go out right now and buy a $35K dollar GS400 and rag it out and beat it into the ground and inject nitrous into the block and blow my heads and crack my block, and blow my tranny and make my engine start to burn oil, It is going to be fun

Mean Gene

Be sure & post some pics!!! :eek:

Lex Luthor

Hehehe. Hmmm, I see you're not a big juice fan, Erfan. Gene, since i'm only starting with a paltry 250 hp (175-180 rwhp), a smaller shot will be ok. As far as the mondo hit (175hp or so), I plan to upgrade to an NOS inline pump (noisy?) or a Supra TT in-tank or aftermarket (i.e. Walbro) pump(s). I don't feel the fuel rail or supply line are restricted at that point (but probably close), so the only remaining issue (barring MSD-6AL and rpm switch install, timing retard, colder plugs w/ a bit smaller gap, etc) is the injectors, so let's tackle that. First of all, I never do any calculations based on a 100% duty cycle, the pulse width is garbage, and other problems arise, but you knew that. So, let's assume that we won't go a drop past 85% duty cycle. Now, I haven't done the math (yet), but Mo seems to be a bit conservative on that one. Granted, there's a 75hp difference between my 1UZ and a 1UZ VVT-i with intake, but we're still talking about a max of 400 flywheel hp either way, on stock injectors. I can't recall, what are our injectors rated at? Are they the same between my non-VVT-i motor and your VVT-i motor? If so, i'd like to start doing some calculations. If we can refer back to TPI, I was running a 150-shot through a single fogger (not recommended, crappy distribution for that much juice, but it had to be hidden) with stock injectors and stock in-tank pump for awhile, on an L98 motor (If I remember correctly, injector sizing was 19lbs/hr for the 305 and 22lbs/hr for the 350, don't ask me to convert that to cc's, I haven't had my fourth cup of Joe yet) and that motor was making a decent amount of grunt without the hit. Now, while I would never recommend doing that again, I never blew it up (Oh, wait a minute, maybe I did.......). Ok, I guess we'd better start doing some calculations, what is the injector sizing for the two motors? By the by, Erfan, i'd much rather install a blower, but space and time considerations tell me to wait a bit, until I can do a well planned and executed install. In the meantime, there's no reason not to juice it, these motors are rediculously strong, and I / Gene won't 'rag it out,' that's a promise. After all, just look at what they're doing with these things in Australia, twin SC's, methanol, 40lbs of boost, crazy stuff like that. Besides, I purchased an aftermarket warranty (thus nixing the blower install 'till the warranty runs out), so if I pop the motor, I'll hopefully be able to remove the juice setup and make a claim (wonder if they'll ask me why all the piston skirts are missing?). Gene, over 5 grand for a shortblock? Hmm, that's a big nut.

Jayson

That sounds like a load of crap. I too would be very suspicious of them now that they have gone out of their way not to do everything possible to make you, the customer happy. I would have thought a Lexus Service Department would have just eaten the $5.00 they probably bill Lexus USA if it meant making a loyal customer happy. Hmmm...

Jayson

black sc

Dealers don't usually put aftermarket parts. They probably did out of warranty and responsiblility issues. It is not a big deal but, I don't understand why or how the Mobil 1 oil filter is any better than other filters. I saw 2 tests of oil filters that said actually Mobil 1 filters were actually just average or even sub-par. Don't flame me but, can you tell me exactly what the M1 filters have that do make it better than the OEM filters?

I guess I am from the old school and want to know exactly. I know that cutting the filters apart and seeing what exactly is inside is empirical proof. However, I do not work in the petroleum industry so, maybe you enlighten me on exactly how and why the M1 filter is so good. Sorry, if I missed this one. I will try to find the links of the oil filter testing results.


Regarding the Water Wetter. I have used it before several times. This is the first time I have heard that it may actually be bad for the car. Can someone tell me how and why? Is it just a precaution due, to mixing unknown chemicals or is there a reason behind it?

RodF

I have a question regarding oil changes in general. I have always been changing my oil every 3 months/3000 miles. This is my first Lexus, and the service people seem to insist that there is no reason for me to bring it in any sooner than the prescribed 6 months. They said that they would love to see me every 3 months, and would be happy to wash my car for me, but there is no reason to change the oil sooner than 6 months. Any thoughts here?

kreativ

RodF,

They are right. Look inside your owner's manual for the Lexus-recommended intervals (5000 for "severe" conditions, 7500 for normal conditions).
A strange thing to see a service center tell you that. Usually, they're more than willing to see you more often and take your money.

Lex Luthor

1SICKLEX, still have my '86 program and hat. I'm sure you've seen some oil analysis, I feel the oil is somewhat contaminated from leakdown by that time, I prefer to change every 3000, but certainly not any sooner than that. Too bad my oil is $6/qt, my plugs are $15 ea, .......

Erfan

What should i do if i only cover 3,000 miles in 6 months? Should i change my oil regardless of the mileage every 4 months or so? I use Quaker state and toyota oil filters.

Thanks