View Poll Results: Would you get K&N air filter?
Voters: 328. You may not vote on this poll
K&N Air filter: worth it?
11-17-06, 01:25 PM
#16
Does the dirt increase actually increase engine wear? Many UOAs, or Used Oil Analysis, indicates no additional metal wear from independent lab reports: iron, copper, aluminum, and lead PPM do not increase.
Please don't assume, scientific data please...
I have serious reservation on K&N oil cause damage to MAF, if one over oils the filter, Can't he just unscrew two phillip screws and spray some brake cleaner to hose off the oil buildup. If one know how to use a screw driver, he can do this DIY job < 5 minute.
Paying $187 for a new MAF, wow!!!
11-22-06, 06:43 PM
#17
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About 3 years ago, I read in a Porshe dealer magazine not to use an oil/guaze filter except on a race engine, which I assume would at least be torn down after an event. GM has one of those hidden notices they can void your warrenty if you use a K&N or oil/guaze. I have a typhoon intake with AEM dryflow filter.
11-22-06, 10:38 PM
#18
Of course, dealers do not want anyone to use any aftermarket.
To condition owner's warranty just because of using aftermarket parts is a violation of federal law.
Before someone says K&N filter does not follow OEM spec, please tell me what is OEM spec in air filter?
I am not against OEM filter, just that many claims are made against K&N lacks scientific data. If anyone can show in an UOA that the engine wear increases with K&N, please post.
To condition owner's warranty just because of using aftermarket parts is a violation of federal law.
Before someone says K&N filter does not follow OEM spec, please tell me what is OEM spec in air filter?
I am not against OEM filter, just that many claims are made against K&N lacks scientific data. If anyone can show in an UOA that the engine wear increases with K&N, please post.
Last edited by TunedRX300; 11-22-06 at 11:24 PM.
11-25-06, 04:54 PM
#19
The performance has been speculative and having had K&N in past cars, the hassle of cleaning it wasn't IMO worth it. Easier to buy a new filter as needed and toss the old one. With a K&N, you wash it, let it dry...then oil it up. This for me was a 3-4 hour remove-replace.
My oil analysis showed more particulates with the K&N, without it hit nominal levels and nearly matched what it had for a baseline test. YMMV, I choose not to use this filter.
My oil analysis showed more particulates with the K&N, without it hit nominal levels and nearly matched what it had for a baseline test. YMMV, I choose not to use this filter.
11-26-06, 03:09 PM
#20
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I've had 3 K&N filters 2 drop-in 1 Conical style, All exceeded my expectations.
Clean and reuse simple enough. The only true measurable difference I could observe was the small increase in MPG. little more sound at WOT.
Is it worth it? Maybe not there drop in, but for Aftermarket CAI its better than a others I seen.
Clean and reuse simple enough. The only true measurable difference I could observe was the small increase in MPG. little more sound at WOT.
Is it worth it? Maybe not there drop in, but for Aftermarket CAI its better than a others I seen.
11-26-06, 04:43 PM
#21
Both flow and filteration are vital for engine operation and reliability.
Higher silicon in UOA does not equal to higher wear. Many virgin oil analysis has shown silicon in lab's spectral analysis because silicon is an additive. Also many sealant has silicon containt, take a UOA for a new engine, silicon is usually found in high ppm. The high silicon does not hurt the engine in both cases because they are not abrasive in nature.
To cause more engine wear, dirt (contains high silicon or sand) must be
abrasive, which means particles 1) large 2) many to cause higher wear rate in Fe, Al, Cu, or Pb in ppm.
In addition, if anyone claim flow is not important, why do we change OEM filter in the first place? Dirty paper filter has higher filteration rate and let in less dirt paricles than a new OEM paper filter.
I have done UOA of my 1mzfe and Mobile 1 5w20 synthetic oil with K&N for 8200 miles, all wear particles are equal or less than other UOA with fewer miles.
For summer dusty months, I use OEM filter for better filteration. Of course this is a balance I found, backed by UOA.
IMHO, I don't think it is fair to make blanket statement filter A is not worth than filter B. Opinion are welcome in this forum, but opinions with scientific data are just more valuable to other members to make their own decisions.
Higher silicon in UOA does not equal to higher wear. Many virgin oil analysis has shown silicon in lab's spectral analysis because silicon is an additive. Also many sealant has silicon containt, take a UOA for a new engine, silicon is usually found in high ppm. The high silicon does not hurt the engine in both cases because they are not abrasive in nature.
To cause more engine wear, dirt (contains high silicon or sand) must be
abrasive, which means particles 1) large 2) many to cause higher wear rate in Fe, Al, Cu, or Pb in ppm.
In addition, if anyone claim flow is not important, why do we change OEM filter in the first place? Dirty paper filter has higher filteration rate and let in less dirt paricles than a new OEM paper filter.
I have done UOA of my 1mzfe and Mobile 1 5w20 synthetic oil with K&N for 8200 miles, all wear particles are equal or less than other UOA with fewer miles.
For summer dusty months, I use OEM filter for better filteration. Of course this is a balance I found, backed by UOA.
IMHO, I don't think it is fair to make blanket statement filter A is not worth than filter B. Opinion are welcome in this forum, but opinions with scientific data are just more valuable to other members to make their own decisions.
Last edited by TunedRX300; 12-30-06 at 09:16 PM.
11-26-06, 10:47 PM
#23
Lexus Test Driver
i have a 2000 gs400 with a K/N drop in this would be the third one I think cause I just replace them every 20K. I also worried about the oil on the MAF so instead of clean I dispose and buy new.
I don't think I felt a big performance difference but i do think that it does let the engine breath a little easier and get up through the rpms quicker.
never any problems with the K/N I think the GS stall issue showed that as many people stall with reg oem air filters then after market ones.
in fact my stall issue is now gone almost for a year or more.
the car is at 60K and i'm currently running no A/C for about 4 months and no stalls. Gas millage is about 19 mix hwy/city.
I don't think I felt a big performance difference but i do think that it does let the engine breath a little easier and get up through the rpms quicker.
never any problems with the K/N I think the GS stall issue showed that as many people stall with reg oem air filters then after market ones.
in fact my stall issue is now gone almost for a year or more.
the car is at 60K and i'm currently running no A/C for about 4 months and no stalls. Gas millage is about 19 mix hwy/city.
11-28-06, 02:29 PM
#25
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Here's an interesting video that addresses this issue:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/e...7e01799b19.htm
Javier
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/e...7e01799b19.htm
Javier
i think ill give K&N a try since my local toyota dealership wants $42 USD for the OEM air filter for my 01 GS300!!
11-28-06, 02:51 PM
#26
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11-28-06, 04:40 PM
#27
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12-12-06, 01:53 PM
#29
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12-12-06, 07:43 PM
#30
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-Tc