Adding Freon
#1
Pit Crew
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Adding Freon
Does anyone have a "how-to" on adding frion to a SC400. I'm not sure where the high and low pressure valves are located. Any help would be appreciated.
#3
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I'd second that advice. If your charge is low you've got other problems as well. Moisture is destructive. The AC system needs to be fully purged and recharged. I found a good speciality shop that specializes in Toyota that will do this for $139. That's a good price considering the cost of the coolant. I don't think its Freon in these, btw.
This work is probably not worth do it yourself.
This work is probably not worth do it yourself.
#7
Not only is there a color code system to keep people from screwing this up but the inlets are threaded differently. In other words you have to really "out Darwin" yourself to mix the 2 refrigerants up. BTW its R-12 (freon) and R-134A
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#8
Any service center should be able to to a Leack check and re-charge for less than $120. Me personally managing a multi-million dollar service center actually talk my customers into converting over to R134A. R12 isn't as readily available as it used to be and I don't even think it's really manufactured anymore. You can buy a conversion kit from places like PepBoys and Advanced Auto Parts. Fairly a simple process. But get the system checked for leaks first before you go any further.
#9
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If your system has the old style freon, by law, a shop cannot recharge your system without repairing the cause of the leak first (or upgrading the system to R-134). You also cannot purchase this type freon yourself. Point is, be prepared for a repair bill if it's the old style. With the new style system, you can buy and recharge yourself but it's still good advice to have a pro evacuate, dry and recharge your system.
You are not compelled by law to repair the new system...Let us know how it went.
You are not compelled by law to repair the new system...Let us know how it went.
#11
Originally Posted by SinisterSC
Any service center should be able to to a Leack check and re-charge for less than $120. Me personally managing a multi-million dollar service center actually talk my customers into converting over to R134A. R12 isn't as readily available as it used to be and I don't even think it's really manufactured anymore. You can buy a conversion kit from places like PepBoys and Advanced Auto Parts. Fairly a simple process. But get the system checked for leaks first before you go any further.
#12
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Originally Posted by SinisterSC
Any service center should be able to to a Leack check and re-charge for less than $120...
#13
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just did this
OK, this is very easy.
First, AC Compressor on drivers side, near lower front of engine block. It has two hoses going into it. On the front of it is a valve. It has a small schraeder valve stem inside it (like a bicycle tire). Hit that to see if there is positive pressure.
On the top of where you would think of the radiator is, drivers side, is another valve fitting. This is the high pressure side (you don't really need to do anything here).
If the system is still R12, there will be screw on fittings on both. If R134a then they will be quick connect fittings.
If there is little or no pressure and you want to give it a whack yourself, go to the auto parts store and get two kits. First a leak test kit (it will have UV dye, an ultraviolet penlight and yellow glasses and leak sealant). Second, an R134a conversion kit. This will have fittings to change from screw to quick connect, freon (with oil mixed in) and a fill gauge. Also get a valve stem tool and some new valve stems.
If there is R12 left (any appreciable amount) you need to get the system evacuated. They convert it with the fittings and change the valve stems. You should get it vacuumed, but I had a little pressure left, so didn't. Then follow the directions on the kits.
First, AC Compressor on drivers side, near lower front of engine block. It has two hoses going into it. On the front of it is a valve. It has a small schraeder valve stem inside it (like a bicycle tire). Hit that to see if there is positive pressure.
On the top of where you would think of the radiator is, drivers side, is another valve fitting. This is the high pressure side (you don't really need to do anything here).
If the system is still R12, there will be screw on fittings on both. If R134a then they will be quick connect fittings.
If there is little or no pressure and you want to give it a whack yourself, go to the auto parts store and get two kits. First a leak test kit (it will have UV dye, an ultraviolet penlight and yellow glasses and leak sealant). Second, an R134a conversion kit. This will have fittings to change from screw to quick connect, freon (with oil mixed in) and a fill gauge. Also get a valve stem tool and some new valve stems.
If there is R12 left (any appreciable amount) you need to get the system evacuated. They convert it with the fittings and change the valve stems. You should get it vacuumed, but I had a little pressure left, so didn't. Then follow the directions on the kits.
#15
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Periodic Check up for the AC system
This thread made me wonder if periodic maintenance is needed for the AC system or not.
My 95 SC4 has 90K miles on it. AC blows really cold air and works very well.
But I am wondering that I should do some maintenance work or not to prevent future problem. So far, I haven’t done anything for the AC system.
We all know very well about scheduled maintenance such as timing belt, water pump, etc.
How about AC system?
My 95 SC4 has 90K miles on it. AC blows really cold air and works very well.
But I am wondering that I should do some maintenance work or not to prevent future problem. So far, I haven’t done anything for the AC system.
We all know very well about scheduled maintenance such as timing belt, water pump, etc.
How about AC system?
Last edited by techsc400; 04-20-06 at 06:45 PM.