PHML

iTrader: (33)

Im looking to do this soon....never done this before.

Ive seen someone do this long ago.....I think he just turn the heater on...then drain the radiator while inserting a running water hose to the top of the radiator fill opening....and let it run for several minutes. Or something like that.

Can anyone give me step by step procedures to do this the easy way?

Much appreciated guys!!

Pete

gserep1

I was able to locate and remove the block drain plugs on both sides of the engine on the GS4. This was after I replaced the timing belt and water pump at 90,000 miles. Even though I drained the radiator before removing it, there was still considerable coolant still left in the block. That was evident when I removed the old water pump. Coolant was still running everywhere. I think I will drain the block first before doing the timing belt the next time.

The best way to do it is on a lift. Standing directly underneath the engine, the plugs are visible on each side if you look straight up. To remove them easiest requires a socket , a very LONG extension and a breaker bar or ratchet. I put 2 long extensions together and slowly took them out.

The only warning is the fact that extreme care must be employed when removing the plugs on a hot engine. To minimize scalding, LOOSEN the plugs instead of removing them. The attaching fitting has a small curved tube that is angled downward so the coolant can be captured and disposed of properly. Open the radiator cap to allow air into the system, and the flow out will be much quicker.

I removed the plugs for speed, after which I discovered that I didn't really have to. The threads on the brass plugs are really fine, so use care putting them back in, or you can strip them easily.

Next time I will probably just loosen them and wait a bit longer for the coolant to drain.

Just my $.03 worth.

PHML

iTrader: (33)

Isn't part of replacing the coolant is to "flush out" any contaminents?

Will just draining the radiator and block drains do this?

I assume most like to use the garden hose or compressed air method to loosen/blow out any contaminents from the system before refilling.

Pete

gserep1

I have found that by using the red toyota fluid, and changing it every 60,000 miles, there is very LITTLE sludge or contaminates in the system at all.

In fact, the few times I have seen contamination is when the system has been neglected for a long period of time, or water has been used instead of the proper coolant mixture.

If you have a normally running system that has a fluid change in the last 30,000 to 60,000 miles, draining and refiling with the same fluid is about all you have to do. I use distilled water instead of tap water, and this helps tremendously.

RPH74

Yes, when flushing the "old fashioned way", running the engine for 5 minutes at a time does the flushing for you. It is much more time consuming than the newer way using a hose, but is still equally, if not more effective. At least an hour. Mechanics did it this way for many years-my buddy said when he left the profession in the early 90's they were still doing it that way.

Tammy

The old fashioned way contaminates the cooling system when using tap water from the hose. This is not a problem if the block is made of old fashioned cast iron.
Use only "Steam Distilled" water from the gallon jug when washing out the system with the engine petcocks or drains open.
Just remember that our aluminum engines don't rust like cast iron engines so old coolant may look good and not discolored.
The new "Super Long Life Coolant" (pink) recommends using the premixed coolant to flush the system and adding no water at all. I would not use a coolant system cleaner of any brand in an aluminum engine.