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Stripped ATF plug

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Old 04-13-05, 10:40 PM
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yoji6365
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You'd have to drop the pan each time to do a drain and fill or a filter change since you wont be able to loosen the nut. This fix would at best be temporary . Its a trick I use in construction.
Old 04-13-05, 10:51 PM
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PERRYinLA
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It might be a better trick to use a properly-sized compression plug. That's a rubber cylinder sandwiched between 2 washers, with a nut and bolt going through the whole thing. Tightening the bolt squeezes the rubber, expanding the sides like a barrel and sealing up the hole.
Old 04-14-05, 01:25 AM
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Jimbo2828
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try to buy that over sized bolt with a little plug on it and jus force it into the hole on the pan. they sell them at most auto parts stores
Old 04-14-05, 09:57 AM
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hyperopt
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Originally Posted by PERRYinLA
It might be a better trick to use a properly-sized compression plug. That's a rubber cylinder sandwiched between 2 washers, with a nut and bolt going through the whole thing. Tightening the bolt squeezes the rubber, expanding the sides like a barrel and sealing up the hole.
If I understood this solution correctly and took a cross section after the installation, I would see a bolt head, washer, rubber, pan, washer, then nut. Correct?

I suppose these solutions are good for trans pan but impractical for oil pan. Is there a way for oil pan without pan replacement or rethreading?
Old 04-14-05, 10:20 AM
  #20  
PERRYinLA
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Default A temporary solution, but yeah, that's it

Yes, the expanded rubber and pan hole would be in the same plane. This same plug, in a larger version, can also seal up that leak-prone coolant level sensor hole in the coolant overflow tank. They are usually sold in hardware stores in those yellow plastic drawers where a bunch of other handy small parts are kept (mirror clips, heat-shrink tubing, t-nuts, hole plugs, cane tips, brass grommets, etc.)
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