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93 ES300 . Driving= temp ok, stop driving= coolant res boils ???

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Old 03-06-05, 02:34 PM
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mike5.9
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Default 93 ES300 . Driving= temp ok, stop driving= coolant res boils ???

Hey guys.

93 ES 300 - 140,000 miles

I'll drive around for a while and the temperature will remain stable at the mid-way point. Shut off the engine and the coolant res will be boiling.

Start up the engine and the temp shows the same, and the boiling stops.

...

I'm under the impression that the fan is operated pneumatically or hydraulically. Is this correct? I assumed that it should continue to blow air after the car is shut off if the temp is high enough, but it does not.

Any thoughts?
Old 03-07-05, 01:37 PM
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P_M_G
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****e!

The 94 ES I just picked up on Saturday is suffering from the same problem. Just got off the freeway, parked in my lot and noticed steam coming from the engine. Pop the hood and the coolant reservoir is boiling like I'm getting ready to cook pasta!

I noticed that the reservoir cap has 2 connections, one of which is spewing the coolant into the engine compartment

What the heck is going on here???

P_M_G
Old 03-07-05, 01:54 PM
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mburnickas
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Originally Posted by P_M_G
****e!

The 94 ES I just picked up on Saturday is suffering from the same problem. Just got off the freeway, parked in my lot and noticed steam coming from the engine. Pop the hood and the coolant reservoir is boiling like I'm getting ready to cook pasta!

I noticed that the reservoir cap has 2 connections, one of which is spewing the coolant into the engine compartment

What the heck is going on here???

P_M_G
Since I do not work on cars too much, I would check the fans or the sensors that control the fans.
Old 03-07-05, 02:48 PM
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P_M_G
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Dang it...

I just checked it and almost all the coolant has boiled away!

I'm serious.....can anybody out there help me????

P_M_G
Old 03-07-05, 03:11 PM
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VVT-i
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The 92-96 ES used hydraulic fan that run off the Power Steering pump. Make sure the electrical connector on the PS is connected, if it's not connected the cooling fan only run at low speed.

This may explained why your car runs at normal temp. while you're driving( the outside air helps cool it down)
Old 03-07-05, 03:19 PM
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P_M_G
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VVTI....

How do I do that?? I'm a schmuck when it comes to this kinda stuff!!

Where do I look?

Thanks in advance!!

P_M_G
Old 03-07-05, 06:18 PM
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Woogie
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perhaps you need to replace your coolant. the fluid in your radiator is a mix of water and anti-freeze. When the majority of the fluid is water, the boiling point gets lowered thus causing it to steam easier. Just something to think about.
Old 03-07-05, 08:27 PM
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Tammy
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Does the seal of the radiator cap appear to be in good shape, or is there a crack in the rubber seat?
Old 03-07-05, 08:40 PM
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P_M_G
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Thanks to all for the continued help....


Here's the latest deal....

Left from work, within a few minutes the temp needle started to rise, as I was driving about 50mph, it was steady at just a shade over half way....soon as I hit a red light...steam out the right side again and I could literally hear the coolant in the reservoir boiling.

Stopped at an EZ Lube, 3 techs said probably the thermostat...after a cool down period, topped off the coolant in the reservoir and off I went...across the street to a mechanic who also said probably the thermostat....

It was running ok temp wise so went to pick up my kids from school and about 2 miles from them it was off the charts heating up, nearing red so I shut her down and coasted into another gas station with a mechanic. After a cool down, he said that the left side of the radiator was hot and the right side (facing the engine) was cold, probably a bad thermostat.

After another cool down, he filled up with water directly into the coolant intake (not the reservoir) and since it took a gallon he then said bad water pump. Drove the final few miles to school and then 2 more back home with no further incidents. Took her out a few minutes ago to the store (about 5 miles) and no problems (even popped the hood at the store to check)....

I'm SOOOOO confused --- I'm tempted to think that based on Woogie's suggestion, a radiator flush is in order (about $100) or does anyone think replacing the thermostat ($150) will help? Is it the water pump ($500)? I'm not made of money so it's not like I can really afford to do all of them (and $$ quoted are from regular mechanics, not the dealer - I can only imagine what the dealer wants for this kind of work)........

Again...all help and suggestions are appreciated!

P_M_G
Old 03-07-05, 08:41 PM
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P_M_G
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Originally Posted by Tammy
Does the seal of the radiator cap appear to be in good shape, or is there a crack in the rubber seat?
Oh yeah....I didn't take a very hard look at the cap when it was removed, so I can't say for sure, but the mech didn't mention it looked cracked or anything.....

P_M_G
Old 03-07-05, 11:02 PM
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PERRYinLA
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If you can drive steadily at 55 for an extended period and the engine does not overheat, your water pump is probably working. You may have a partial restriction somewhere in the cooling system, and only once you slow down does the water pump not provide enough pressure to overcome the restriction. If the radiator surface is showing large variations in temperature, that's suspect #1. I've heard of heat-sensitive stickers that you can place all over, that change color depending upon how hot they get.

In any case, until you solve the problem, always carry a few jugs of water (preferably distilled) in your trunk! That way, you are not stranded if you overheat again, and you are not wasting money buying coolant that boils away. I had a BMW prone to overheating and I lived that way for quite a while till I solved the problem.
Old 03-08-05, 03:14 AM
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Lexusfreak
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Perhaps the thermostat needs replacing? This might be something you need to take to a mechanic & not let the car keep heating up like that.......eventually it might get damaged. When was the last time a complete cooling system was flushed?
Old 03-08-05, 02:42 PM
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P_M_G
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Looks like the culprit is the thermo. Appears as though previous owner had filled with too much H20 and likely corroded the spring. I'm having that replaced ASAP and will be carrying some distilled in the trunk just in case!

I'll pop in a post if this solves the problem!

thanks again for all the help!!!!!!!

P_M_G
Old 03-08-05, 08:03 PM
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CUMan
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It seems to me that if the problem was the thermostat, you would overheat when the car is moving. If a bad thermostat is blocking coolant flow into the radiator, the air flow from the car moving is not going to help keep the temperature down.

It sounds like the cooling fan is not working properly. When the car is at rest, this fan pulls air through the radiator and keeps the coolant temperature at acceptable levels.

After the car has reached operating temperature, open the hood (with the engine still running) and check and make sure the fan is turning. If not, the problem is either the fan motor or one or more of the switches which control the fan operation.
Old 03-12-05, 05:53 PM
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yoji6365
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I saw a thread somewhere about this exact problem. It wasnt the thermostat. It had something to do with a system obviously tied in. I'll look for it and post it back here. It could have been for one of my other vehicles so it could take a few hours. Wish me luck


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