After speaking to a Toyota master tech, he gave me a good tip on what tool to use for my 120k service. So now I need a 36" chain wrench which holds the harmonic balancer in place while you break the 239 ft lb nut loose at the crankshaft. If there's anyone in SoCal that would be gracious enough to lend this tool to me for a couple of days, I would greatly appreciate it. I would even be willing to pay shipping to borrow one from farther away. I'm also willing to pay a fair rental fee, if you so deem. I would buy the tool myself, but the cheapest I found it online is $155 w/out shipping
Thanks for your help guys,
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expensive tool, you are changing the timing belt ? I remember changing a timing chain on a car once and that bolt on the crank can be a PITA to get off. Let me know how this turns out and maybe post a pic of the tool.
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Harbor Frieght!!! I picked one up for my last supra I did, I think I paid 15 bux for it. Not the best tool in the world, but worked fine, and I've used it a few times since. Just make sure you put a peice of belt under it (between the chain/pulley) or you will damage the pulley.
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Originally posted by GS3InPhx Harbor Frieght!!! I picked one up for my last supra I did, I think I paid 15 bux for it. Not the best tool in the world, but worked fine, and I've used it a few times since. Just make sure you put a peice of belt under it (between the chain/pulley) or you will damage the pulley.
I was just about to recommend Harbor freight too. I have the Snap On chain, and then I bought the one from harbor frieght just for kicks cause its cheap. Well it works just as well as the Snap On chain.
I just finished swapping in a new timing belt and water pump. Tried everything, including a 650ft lb torque Ingersol Rand impact wrench for the crank bolt. In the end, after talking to most mechanics in the area including the Toyota guys, I wound up using the tried and true 1/2" wrench, 22mm or 7/8" socket, 3 ft cheater bar, disconnected the ignition coil wire, and had a buddy hit the starter. Trust me, the only way. Had a little help from the local Snap On guy. After the bolt is off, its cake with a pully puller. Get an impact wrench to put it back on. The water pump is not fun to put back on. If you need any more info, PM me. PS, be sure to scrape the old gasket off of the back half of the water pump before you put on the new one. I would also replace the thermostat since it is housed in there. Get one of the TRD 160 degree thermostats too. Not expensive but important. Might want to drop a few more bucks for a new radiator cap.
I am glad to see that someone else used my old trick...(learned from YEARS of wrenching in the Ground Support Equipment shops in the Marine Corps.
When I did my belt on my old GS4, NOTHING else would do the trick. I was already frustrated by then, bevcause so manyo ther mechs on the shop were using up all the air for my air tool. So I did what I always do....and it worked fine. After I did the water pump, bearings, and thermostat, I totaled the car the very next week...bummer! I used a 22 MM socket to get the bolt off.
Now I have another 99 GS4 with 59,000 miles, so it will be awhile before this one needs the belt and other accessories. I will know what to do when the time comes. I MAY give this wrench deal a try when I want to torque the bolt back on, however!
Cameron- I was just weary of that b/c I read a post where someone blew up there batt or something crazy like that doing it that way. Anyway, I went to Harbor Freight and dropped $70 on a 300 ft lb torque wrench and another $15 on a 24" chain wrench (the largest they had- hopefully its big enough). Someone brought up a point- why do you need a chain wrench to hold the harmonic balancer when in theory if I shift into first gear, that would keep anything from turning?
Cam- your # still the same? If it is, I'll call you if I need any advice
I also was weary about the battery exploding thing, but I ran out of options. Replacing a $50 battery is better than tearing up a grooved pully with a chain wrench. I tried the keeping the car in gear theory, but there was just too much slack. You have to have a hard impact to break the bolt loose. I even tried jamming a large screwdriver in the yolk behind the tranny and wound up pusing my 270 lbs roomate out from under the car. I ran the risk of damaging a quarter panel if it had broken then with the cheater bar. I also tried jamming the flywheel with a large screwdriver. It came down to one of two things. One, you can take the gear off of an old starter, weld it to a bar, and placing it where the starter is, or breaking it loose while hitting the starter. The latter was a better alternative. You just have to have a hard hit to break it loose. You cannont have any slack. When Toyota says its torqued on, it means it.
PS: On replacing the water pump, go ahead and pull the whole thing. The toughest bolts are the two 10mm's holding on the top feed tube. Use a universal joint to get under the distributer. You will see what I mean about going ahead and swaping the thermostat. Also, remember that there are TWO drain plugs on the radiator. Make sure both are in place. They are just about an inch from eachother, but easy to miss.
Great forum found what I came for in the first hour. Wow you learn something new every day. Never thought to use the starter to break the bolt loose. I wore myself out today trying to break her loose. 625ft/lb air gun didn't even budge it. I was thinking maybe I was turning it the wrong way or something. Me and my brother both on a cheater pipe no luck. I will try the starter tomorrow. Thanks. btw Its my girls lexus...You guys can have all the lexus you want I am sticking with my nissan. 240's over Charlotte!!!!!! Check out www.240sxforums.com for any type of nissan questions if you ever need them.