The worst 2 hours of my life...Changing my Fuel Filter
09-18-04, 06:23 PM
#31
Originally posted by /Aerostar\
There is only one, and it is located in front of the rear driver wheel under the car. And have fun trying to clamp down the HARD lines around the filter
There is only one, and it is located in front of the rear driver wheel under the car. And have fun trying to clamp down the HARD lines around the filter
09-18-04, 10:30 PM
#34
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Originally posted by johnee78
You should disconnect the fuel sender sensor and run the car until it dies than you remove/replace the fuel filter and plug the sensor back in and start your car without the rash..
You should disconnect the fuel sender sensor and run the car until it dies than you remove/replace the fuel filter and plug the sensor back in and start your car without the rash..
. Even when you run the fuel "out" of the line when it is disconnected, the fuel line comes out the bottom of the tank. It will naturally siphon out of the tank. Most cars have main line out of top of tank and the siphoning process usually will not happen. As for clamping the line over differential, yes this helps but it may damage the line since it is not a soft flexible line. It is a semi rigid line and can be damaged and restricted due to clamping.
09-18-04, 10:41 PM
#35
Originally posted by SC300-95-TMM
Rash hmmmmmm I got that for sure!!!! . Even when you run the fuel "out" of the line when it is disconnected, the fuel line comes out the bottom of the tank. It will naturally siphon out of the tank. Most cars have main line out of top of tank and the siphoning process usually will not happen. As for clamping the line over differential, yes this helps but it may damage the line since it is not a soft flexible line. It is a semi rigid line and can be damaged and restricted due to clamping.
Rash hmmmmmm I got that for sure!!!!
. Even when you run the fuel "out" of the line when it is disconnected, the fuel line comes out the bottom of the tank. It will naturally siphon out of the tank. Most cars have main line out of top of tank and the siphoning process usually will not happen. As for clamping the line over differential, yes this helps but it may damage the line since it is not a soft flexible line. It is a semi rigid line and can be damaged and restricted due to clamping.
09-18-04, 10:47 PM
#36
Lexus Champion
Originally posted by SC300-95-TMM
Rash hmmmmmm I got that for sure!!!! . Even when you run the fuel "out" of the line when it is disconnected, the fuel line comes out the bottom of the tank. It will naturally siphon out of the tank. Most cars have main line out of top of tank and the siphoning process usually will not happen. As for clamping the line over differential, yes this helps but it may damage the line since it is not a soft flexible line. It is a semi rigid line and can be damaged and restricted due to clamping.
Rash hmmmmmm I got that for sure!!!!
. Even when you run the fuel "out" of the line when it is disconnected, the fuel line comes out the bottom of the tank. It will naturally siphon out of the tank. Most cars have main line out of top of tank and the siphoning process usually will not happen. As for clamping the line over differential, yes this helps but it may damage the line since it is not a soft flexible line. It is a semi rigid line and can be damaged and restricted due to clamping.
09-18-04, 11:02 PM
#37
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Originally posted by nthach
Mercedes uses the same setup as Toyota used on the UZZ/JZZ/UCF chassis, but i never had fuel gush out of a Mercedes tank when I changed the filters. Toyota on the other hand, i had gas gush out of a fuel line on a 1983 Cressida with a engine-mounted fuel filter after i disconnected the feed line from the filter.
Mercedes uses the same setup as Toyota used on the UZZ/JZZ/UCF chassis, but i never had fuel gush out of a Mercedes tank when I changed the filters. Toyota on the other hand, i had gas gush out of a fuel line on a 1983 Cressida with a engine-mounted fuel filter after i disconnected the feed line from the filter.
Well That is possible also. May have had tank still pressurized due to cap being left on tank. All I know is that the filter change out is a chore...
07-02-05, 07:47 AM
#38
I Did The Fuel Filter On My 99 Gs4
I recently changed the filter on my 99 GS4, and it was pretty easy. I really sypathize with owners of earlier Lexus cars. I DO think that using theproper tools and soaking the fittings prior to disassembly would have gone a long way towards minimizing your troubles.
On the newer Gs's, the filter and pump are inside the tank, and the tank does NOT have to be dropped to get it changed.
One has only to disconnect the battery, remove the rear seat, and open a sealed access door in the floorboard. The pump and filter assembly is removed as a single piece. Once the filter element is replaced, the entire assembly is replaced back inside the tank, and the electrical lines are reconnected.
Reassemble the access door, (making sure the seal fits securely, reattach the battery terminals and start up. This filter deteriorates so slowly that it id hard to tell when it goes bad. My 99GS was made in December of 1998, so it was time after nearly 7 years of operation.
Next is the timing belt when I hit 90,000 miles. Time to do the major service.
GSEREP1
On the newer Gs's, the filter and pump are inside the tank, and the tank does NOT have to be dropped to get it changed.
One has only to disconnect the battery, remove the rear seat, and open a sealed access door in the floorboard. The pump and filter assembly is removed as a single piece. Once the filter element is replaced, the entire assembly is replaced back inside the tank, and the electrical lines are reconnected.
Reassemble the access door, (making sure the seal fits securely, reattach the battery terminals and start up. This filter deteriorates so slowly that it id hard to tell when it goes bad. My 99GS was made in December of 1998, so it was time after nearly 7 years of operation.
Next is the timing belt when I hit 90,000 miles. Time to do the major service.
GSEREP1
12-08-05, 06:48 PM
#40
Racer
More like three hours for me....
Just finished this awful chore, and since misery loves company, I thought I'd post here. I could have posted many places but I chose this tread because its title sums it up quite nicely.
Like many others, I also had problems with the soft metal of those connectors, even though I had a 14mm flare wrench. It was more like a 14.3mm wrench- it did not fit that tight. Once the edges of the connector get rounded (easy to do since they are so hard to turn), you are on a slippery slope. Since the other side of my 14mm flare wrench was 13mm, I tried to Dremel the edges slightly smaller so the 13mm end would fit, but it was on too tight and I could feel the new edges rounding . What a nightmare. I was ready to give up till I searched and saw a post that recommended a pipe wrench. I borrowed my neighbor's pipe wrench and that did the trick.
The other problem was getting the connectors back on the new filter nice and straight- you gotta really strongarm the new filter and fuel lines to get them lined up right.
And after all that, the dirty gas that came out the inlet side once I removed it did not look all that bad. But of course, you don't know that until you remove it (they need windows on those things).
So for those that really want to install a new filter, unless you are a hard-core DIYer, I'd recommend you just keep a new filter in your trunk at all times, and the next time your car needs to be on a lift for some other work, smile as you ask the mechanic "oh yeah, can you also put this on for me?"
Like many others, I also had problems with the soft metal of those connectors, even though I had a 14mm flare wrench. It was more like a 14.3mm wrench- it did not fit that tight. Once the edges of the connector get rounded (easy to do since they are so hard to turn), you are on a slippery slope. Since the other side of my 14mm flare wrench was 13mm, I tried to Dremel the edges slightly smaller so the 13mm end would fit, but it was on too tight and I could feel the new edges rounding . What a nightmare. I was ready to give up till I searched and saw a post that recommended a pipe wrench. I borrowed my neighbor's pipe wrench and that did the trick.
The other problem was getting the connectors back on the new filter nice and straight- you gotta really strongarm the new filter and fuel lines to get them lined up right.
And after all that, the dirty gas that came out the inlet side once I removed it did not look all that bad. But of course, you don't know that until you remove it (they need windows on those things).
So for those that really want to install a new filter, unless you are a hard-core DIYer, I'd recommend you just keep a new filter in your trunk at all times, and the next time your car needs to be on a lift for some other work, smile as you ask the mechanic "oh yeah, can you also put this on for me?"
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