Strange oil leak on my new SC430 (comments welcome).
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Strange oil leak on my new SC430 (comments welcome).
Car is 4 months old, and had 800 miles when I put it on the rhino ramps. Replaced oil with Mobil1 5W/30 (and OEM filter).
My first question is if I have to completely remove the engine undertray to remove the oil filter without making a mess. I removed it this time to clean and inspect the area, but it was a royal pain; too many bolts.
Anyway, removed second plastic undertray (right behind the engine one) to be able to clean and inspect that area as well, and lo and behold, there was a small puddle of motor oil on the cover. Upon further inspection, it was leaking where the engine and transmission join. I checked everywhere for oil that could have run from the oil filter, but not a drop. I then removed a cover to reveal the converter, and cleaned the oil accumulated there, as well as under the cover. I couldn't find evidence of the engine seal leaking straight down, both by looking with a flash light and touching around the seal (a big relief), so the only other logical explanation is the sump wasn't sealed properly on the back edges of the engine; unfortunately, I could only stick my fingers about an inch from the inside (felt oily, but nothing liquid to wet the shop towel), and couldn't see with my special mirror beyond there due to the small opening. SInce the engine is practically over the frame cross member, it's just as bad. My question is if repairing it requires removal of either engine and/or transmission. As opposed to many cars before (including the GS and LS), this one had all fluid levels perfectly set at the factory, so an overfilled crankcase causing excessive pressure on the seals is (unfortunately) not an explanation. Needless to say, this is a major bummer; especially on a brand new car.
Anyway, I'm still hoping it was a fluke during assembly, and would take the car to the dealer only if the leak reappears.
Anybody with the V8/5-sp tranny have had this problem? Your comments are welcome.
JC
My first question is if I have to completely remove the engine undertray to remove the oil filter without making a mess. I removed it this time to clean and inspect the area, but it was a royal pain; too many bolts.
Anyway, removed second plastic undertray (right behind the engine one) to be able to clean and inspect that area as well, and lo and behold, there was a small puddle of motor oil on the cover. Upon further inspection, it was leaking where the engine and transmission join. I checked everywhere for oil that could have run from the oil filter, but not a drop. I then removed a cover to reveal the converter, and cleaned the oil accumulated there, as well as under the cover. I couldn't find evidence of the engine seal leaking straight down, both by looking with a flash light and touching around the seal (a big relief), so the only other logical explanation is the sump wasn't sealed properly on the back edges of the engine; unfortunately, I could only stick my fingers about an inch from the inside (felt oily, but nothing liquid to wet the shop towel), and couldn't see with my special mirror beyond there due to the small opening. SInce the engine is practically over the frame cross member, it's just as bad. My question is if repairing it requires removal of either engine and/or transmission. As opposed to many cars before (including the GS and LS), this one had all fluid levels perfectly set at the factory, so an overfilled crankcase causing excessive pressure on the seals is (unfortunately) not an explanation. Needless to say, this is a major bummer; especially on a brand new car.
Anyway, I'm still hoping it was a fluke during assembly, and would take the car to the dealer only if the leak reappears.
Anybody with the V8/5-sp tranny have had this problem? Your comments are welcome.
JC
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally posted by nthach
it maybe the M1 that's causing the problem, i would change out to dino oil.
it maybe the M1 that's causing the problem, i would change out to dino oil.
Thanks for your reply.
#4
Lexus Champion
The only problem I ran into this engine is the cam seal. SC430 with 889 miles on it and the cam seal were leaking. In your situation, I would take it the dealership if you see any further leak. Oh yeah, It's not easy to do the cam seal on these.
JPI
JPI
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally posted by JPI
The only problem I ran into this engine is the cam seal. SC430 with 889 miles on it and the cam seal were leaking. In your situation, I would take it the dealership if you see any further leak. Oh yeah, It's not easy to do the cam seal on these.
JPI
The only problem I ran into this engine is the cam seal. SC430 with 889 miles on it and the cam seal were leaking. In your situation, I would take it the dealership if you see any further leak. Oh yeah, It's not easy to do the cam seal on these.
JPI
Unfortunately that sounds just like my problem, because the oil was on the sides, not the middle (crank seal). To make matters worse, it was coming from BOTH sides, so at least one seal on each side might be leaking on my car.
Finally, what does this repair entail? At least it sounds like no engine/tranny removal, right? I'd appreciate your answers very much. Haven't even started the car yet after the oil change last week, but I figure it'd take a look in another 800 miles, so there's enough oil for the dealer to figure out where it's coming from.
Thanks a lot again JPI.
#6
Lexus Champion
Vehicle: SC430
Year: 2003 with 889 miles on the clock
Problem: Cam seals leak on the driver side
This is what happen, the client changed the oil about 300 miles ago. And I thought it was the oil filter wasn't tight enough. I removed the undercover, checked the filter it was tight. So I clean the leak off and Let it run for 2 hrs to see if the leak still there. Two hours later, I brought the car in and take another look. I could see the leak is coming off the cam seal(driver's side). I didn't believe it because this is a new car with only 889 miles. Clean it off again and let it run for another 4 hrs. This time more oil and it's obviously coming off the cam seal and down to the A/C compressor. The cam seals on this vehicle is not that easy at all, I was the first one to do this job. You will have to remove the cam shaft to replace the cam seal. Set the timing past TDC(top death center), otherwise you will bend the valve. And setting the VVT-i gears wasn't that fun
I would check your A/C compressor if there is any oil leak through there. If It is then you will know your cam seal is leaking. Drive it for another 40 miles and check again. Make sure you don't run low on oil.
JPI
Year: 2003 with 889 miles on the clock
Problem: Cam seals leak on the driver side
This is what happen, the client changed the oil about 300 miles ago. And I thought it was the oil filter wasn't tight enough. I removed the undercover, checked the filter it was tight. So I clean the leak off and Let it run for 2 hrs to see if the leak still there. Two hours later, I brought the car in and take another look. I could see the leak is coming off the cam seal(driver's side). I didn't believe it because this is a new car with only 889 miles. Clean it off again and let it run for another 4 hrs. This time more oil and it's obviously coming off the cam seal and down to the A/C compressor. The cam seals on this vehicle is not that easy at all, I was the first one to do this job. You will have to remove the cam shaft to replace the cam seal. Set the timing past TDC(top death center), otherwise you will bend the valve. And setting the VVT-i gears wasn't that fun
I would check your A/C compressor if there is any oil leak through there. If It is then you will know your cam seal is leaking. Drive it for another 40 miles and check again. Make sure you don't run low on oil.
JPI
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Hey JPI, thanks for the detailed explanation. The front and sides of my engine are squeaky clean, so the cam theory is out the window, since there're no cam seals at the back of the engine. It's so tight in there it's hard to see, but if anything, I bet it'll be the oil pan seal towards the back of the engine, where it joins the tranny. Any other place you can have a REAR engine oil leak below the heads, and excluding the crank seal? I can only see the oil pan as a culprit.
Since I buttoned up everything already, I can't offer pictures, but next time I take the cover down I'll take some. I'll do that before even changing the oil, just in case it was somehow related to it. If there's any evidence of oil, the car is going in; no way I'd touch it myself under warranty. I just wanted an expert's opinion since I just don't trust the only dealer in town (and in hundreds of miles around) due to its very low sales volume; every problem I've had they never heard of it before. Hate to be the guinea pig.
Thanks again for your help JPI. Will keep my fingers crossed, and check the that area again in a few hundred miles.
JC
Since I buttoned up everything already, I can't offer pictures, but next time I take the cover down I'll take some. I'll do that before even changing the oil, just in case it was somehow related to it. If there's any evidence of oil, the car is going in; no way I'd touch it myself under warranty. I just wanted an expert's opinion since I just don't trust the only dealer in town (and in hundreds of miles around) due to its very low sales volume; every problem I've had they never heard of it before. Hate to be the guinea pig.
Thanks again for your help JPI. Will keep my fingers crossed, and check the that area again in a few hundred miles.
JC
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#10
Racer
Thread Starter
To recap, the engine is squeaky clean everywhere, except that one area in the back, so nothing at the front is at fault now. It's definitely not the main (crank) rear seal, because it'd leak straight down, and I could both see with a flashlight and touch it with my fingers (after removing the cover that exposes the flywheel), which came back completely dry. The inner edges had oil, however, which permeated to the outside too. Again, I bet whoever glued the oil pan did it on a Friday, and missed a spot at the rear of the engine: I see no other way where motor oil could leak. Other than an internal crack, which would be extremely unlikely. By the way, I'm stumped why Lexus didn't use a proper gasket on the oil pan, rather than just sealant (it's light gray in color, and it's all around the oil pan).
I had to have my bike fixed for a similar leak on the timing chain cover, which was also just glued rather than having a gasket. The spot was the size of a pin tip, but enough to make a mess in 1,000 miles (under oil pressure). The reason I bought that particular BMW model was because it had been in production 6 years, but unfortunately mistakes still happen. And if they happen, they'll happen to ME. And this one also required major disassembly: all plastic, both radiators, valve cover, crank cover, oil radiator, engine oil lines... and the list goes on and on. This happened to many '03 owners as well, which prompted an internal investigation by BMW. The result? Engines were fired up before the sealant was completely cured (cost them big bucks).
One thing I can't stand is mechanical problems, especially the ones (lilke mine) that require substantial disassembly to correct. It's a major bummer for me. I can tolerate creaks, rattles, recalls, etc. that don't affect my car mechanically. If the engine is leaking from where I think, the darn oil pan is sitting squarely at the middle of the front frame cross-member, and clears it by millimeters; I don't even want to think about what's needed to fix a stupidity like that.
Hope everybody enjoyed your weekend.
JC
I had to have my bike fixed for a similar leak on the timing chain cover, which was also just glued rather than having a gasket. The spot was the size of a pin tip, but enough to make a mess in 1,000 miles (under oil pressure). The reason I bought that particular BMW model was because it had been in production 6 years, but unfortunately mistakes still happen. And if they happen, they'll happen to ME. And this one also required major disassembly: all plastic, both radiators, valve cover, crank cover, oil radiator, engine oil lines... and the list goes on and on. This happened to many '03 owners as well, which prompted an internal investigation by BMW. The result? Engines were fired up before the sealant was completely cured (cost them big bucks).
One thing I can't stand is mechanical problems, especially the ones (lilke mine) that require substantial disassembly to correct. It's a major bummer for me. I can tolerate creaks, rattles, recalls, etc. that don't affect my car mechanically. If the engine is leaking from where I think, the darn oil pan is sitting squarely at the middle of the front frame cross-member, and clears it by millimeters; I don't even want to think about what's needed to fix a stupidity like that.
Hope everybody enjoyed your weekend.
JC
#11
Lexus Champion
Let me clear something off here.
1) Toyota used the fipg for a reason. They are a lot better than those gaskets that are used on Honda3. And it's IMPOSSBILE to leak.
2) If your oil pan does leak. It doesn't take that long to reseal it. They will have to take the 4 nuts holding the motor mounts from the cross member. From there they will have to raise the engine up and there it is your oil pan will come out easily.
3) I understand how it's feel to have an expensive vehicle and something goes wrong already
4) Bring it to the dealership and Request a master tech to look at your vehicle.
JPI
1) Toyota used the fipg for a reason. They are a lot better than those gaskets that are used on Honda3. And it's IMPOSSBILE to leak.
2) If your oil pan does leak. It doesn't take that long to reseal it. They will have to take the 4 nuts holding the motor mounts from the cross member. From there they will have to raise the engine up and there it is your oil pan will come out easily.
3) I understand how it's feel to have an expensive vehicle and something goes wrong already
4) Bring it to the dealership and Request a master tech to look at your vehicle.
JPI
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Hey man, you made my day. Hopefully it was some kind of fluke during assembly, which very well could happen, but if it comes back, I'm definitely relieved it's something relatively simple to fix. I obviously wouldn't clean it up again if it happens, so the techs can trace where exactly is coming from. And I'm glad you mentioned a 'master tech'; I'm not sure the small dealership here has one, but if it doesn't, I'll make sure with Lexus and the service manager they know exactly what to do before touching my car.
Thanks again for being so nice and fast to respond to our questions here. I certainly wish you were here.
Good evening to all.
Thanks again for being so nice and fast to respond to our questions here. I certainly wish you were here.
Good evening to all.
#13
Car is 4 months old, and had 800 miles when I put it on the rhino ramps. Replaced oil with Mobil1 5W/30 (and OEM filter).
My first question is if I have to completely remove the engine undertray to remove the oil filter without making a mess. I removed it this time to clean and inspect the area, but it was a royal pain; too many bolts.
Anyway, removed second plastic undertray (right behind the engine one) to be able to clean and inspect that area as well, and lo and behold, there was a small puddle of motor oil on the cover. Upon further inspection, it was leaking where the engine and transmission join. I checked everywhere for oil that could have run from the oil filter, but not a drop. I then removed a cover to reveal the converter, and cleaned the oil accumulated there, as well as under the cover. I couldn't find evidence of the engine seal leaking straight down, both by looking with a flash light and touching around the seal (a big relief), so the only other logical explanation is the sump wasn't sealed properly on the back edges of the engine; unfortunately, I could only stick my fingers about an inch from the inside (felt oily, but nothing liquid to wet the shop towel), and couldn't see with my special mirror beyond there due to the small opening. SInce the engine is practically over the frame cross member, it's just as bad. My question is if repairing it requires removal of either engine and/or transmission. As opposed to many cars before (including the GS and LS), this one had all fluid levels perfectly set at the factory, so an overfilled crankcase causing excessive pressure on the seals is (unfortunately) not an explanation. Needless to say, this is a major bummer; especially on a brand new car.
Anyway, I'm still hoping it was a fluke during assembly, and would take the car to the dealer only if the leak reappears.
Anybody with the V8/5-sp tranny have had this problem? Your comments are welcome.
JC
My first question is if I have to completely remove the engine undertray to remove the oil filter without making a mess. I removed it this time to clean and inspect the area, but it was a royal pain; too many bolts.
Anyway, removed second plastic undertray (right behind the engine one) to be able to clean and inspect that area as well, and lo and behold, there was a small puddle of motor oil on the cover. Upon further inspection, it was leaking where the engine and transmission join. I checked everywhere for oil that could have run from the oil filter, but not a drop. I then removed a cover to reveal the converter, and cleaned the oil accumulated there, as well as under the cover. I couldn't find evidence of the engine seal leaking straight down, both by looking with a flash light and touching around the seal (a big relief), so the only other logical explanation is the sump wasn't sealed properly on the back edges of the engine; unfortunately, I could only stick my fingers about an inch from the inside (felt oily, but nothing liquid to wet the shop towel), and couldn't see with my special mirror beyond there due to the small opening. SInce the engine is practically over the frame cross member, it's just as bad. My question is if repairing it requires removal of either engine and/or transmission. As opposed to many cars before (including the GS and LS), this one had all fluid levels perfectly set at the factory, so an overfilled crankcase causing excessive pressure on the seals is (unfortunately) not an explanation. Needless to say, this is a major bummer; especially on a brand new car.
Anyway, I'm still hoping it was a fluke during assembly, and would take the car to the dealer only if the leak reappears.
Anybody with the V8/5-sp tranny have had this problem? Your comments are welcome.
JC
have you ever figured this out ?
i have similar issue with an ATF fluid cumulation on the connection between gearbox and engine block .. nothing leaking + even the plastic cover is so dry ! its been there almost a year and still as it looks .. i never washed it or did anything
car is 2006 GCC very well maintained and all oils are changed before due times .. mileage is 230k KM
i have zero leak from anywhere and the car performs excellent ..
My Q is shall i add Lucas stop leak ? it says it helps old trans and lubricates !
this topic was long time ago almost 20 years !! but its the only thing explaining exactly what im facing
i hope people still alive and could answer
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