New to the forum and new to owning a 2000 LX470 few questions
01-11-14, 11:37 PM
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New to the forum and new to owning a 2000 LX470 few questions
I just acquired a immaculate 2000 LX470. I am slightly familiar with its LC version So far I love it I love the body style much better than current gen. Anyways My questions and concerns are the engine has a very tiny miss when idling its hardly noticeable I was wondering if that could be maybe because the dealer did not put in Premium gas? Maybe a Tune up? I have only had it for about 48 hours so far so As of right now till i have time its going to be a guess. On the other hand good new would indicate that my AHC seems to be properly working correctly But as I have read and just out of a Pre maintenance I might flush and replace the fluid in that and the brake system even those are working great! It does have High miles and only had 1 previous owner who seems to have taken great care of is , no paint fade no paint chips i dont even notice any normal wear and tear scratches, Inside is just as great! Leather is hardly worn So i am pretty confident it was well taken care of. I notice a small amount of cabin noise witch i am guessing is from the new tires the dealer put on it and non factory rims and or I notice the seals around the doors are no longer as thick as they should be they are all pretty flat So i am going to replace those and see how that works out. Other than that seems pretty perfect other than it only having the secondary non alarm key.. I am guessing I can buy one on ebay and use the programming instruction it just seems silly to have such a nice ride and no keyless entry lol. If you guys would like to give me any advice on key things to check for it and service to get done let me know and if they are DIY please provide details on how to complete the tasks. Thank you all in advance and look forward to being a active member! 
Also I am interested in any retro fitting from newer models to enhance looks or functionality. Such as factory LED tail lights? I am pretty sure they offered them near the end of this run but I could be wrong. How about a Factory HID setup if not a high quality after market system would be fine. In addition I would love to see or know about aftermarket GPS installs or what is needed or recommended? Other than that any other fun advice would be great.
Also I am interested in any retro fitting from newer models to enhance looks or functionality. Such as factory LED tail lights? I am pretty sure they offered them near the end of this run but I could be wrong. How about a Factory HID setup if not a high quality after market system would be fine. In addition I would love to see or know about aftermarket GPS installs or what is needed or recommended? Other than that any other fun advice would be great.
Last edited by CEO714; 01-11-14 at 11:48 PM. Reason: Adding stuff
01-12-14, 07:12 AM
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I'd never assume a vehicle is well taken care of unless you have the records. I know many people that taked their vehicles to be detailed an yet never change the oil anywhere near when they are supposed to.
- AHU flush - as you stated - easy to do
- Brake fluid - as you stated - easy to do
- Front/Rear differential fluid - easy to do
- Transfer case - easy to do
- Filters
- Know your timing belt life. if its got 90K or more on it or worse, you don;t know and kind find out - replace it. Its a good 4-6 hr job.
- I'd change the oil and filter and put something good in it. Sometimes they put in cheap junk
- Repack the front wheel bearings - takes a goiod 3-4 hrs to do right
- Deal with the CV boots seeping cv grease
- Regarding the miss. It's unlikely its the gas. I run mid-grade with high grade once in a blue moon. I find it makes no difference in power, mileage or performance. if you are over 100K miles you probably need new plugs. If you have COP, don;t loose the seals taking the coils out or putting them back in. You can;t purchase them separately and the aftermarket ones are too think - ask me how I know.
The LX seems to be a reasonably reliable vehicle. The only real complain I have is the wearability of the front suspension and front brakes. The front caiper is a 4 piston unit and I find it has issues with even brake wear and freezing. Next go at it I will try rebuilding the calipers myself to see its systemic or what. New calipers are $400+ and the rebiult units are no better quality wise.
- AHU flush - as you stated - easy to do
- Brake fluid - as you stated - easy to do
- Front/Rear differential fluid - easy to do
- Transfer case - easy to do
- Filters
- Know your timing belt life. if its got 90K or more on it or worse, you don;t know and kind find out - replace it. Its a good 4-6 hr job.
- I'd change the oil and filter and put something good in it. Sometimes they put in cheap junk
- Repack the front wheel bearings - takes a goiod 3-4 hrs to do right
- Deal with the CV boots seeping cv grease
- Regarding the miss. It's unlikely its the gas. I run mid-grade with high grade once in a blue moon. I find it makes no difference in power, mileage or performance. if you are over 100K miles you probably need new plugs. If you have COP, don;t loose the seals taking the coils out or putting them back in. You can;t purchase them separately and the aftermarket ones are too think - ask me how I know.
The LX seems to be a reasonably reliable vehicle. The only real complain I have is the wearability of the front suspension and front brakes. The front caiper is a 4 piston unit and I find it has issues with even brake wear and freezing. Next go at it I will try rebuilding the calipers myself to see its systemic or what. New calipers are $400+ and the rebiult units are no better quality wise.
01-12-14, 07:53 PM
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I'd never assume a vehicle is well taken care of unless you have the records. I know many people that taked their vehicles to be detailed an yet never change the oil anywhere near when they are supposed to.
- AHU flush - as you stated - easy to do
- Brake fluid - as you stated - easy to do
- Front/Rear differential fluid - easy to do
- Transfer case - easy to do
- Filters
- Know your timing belt life. if its got 90K or more on it or worse, you don;t know and kind find out - replace it. Its a good 4-6 hr job.
- I'd change the oil and filter and put something good in it. Sometimes they put in cheap junk
- Repack the front wheel bearings - takes a goiod 3-4 hrs to do right
- Deal with the CV boots seeping cv grease
- Regarding the miss. It's unlikely its the gas. I run mid-grade with high grade once in a blue moon. I find it makes no difference in power, mileage or performance. if you are over 100K miles you probably need new plugs. If you have COP, don;t loose the seals taking the coils out or putting them back in. You can;t purchase them separately and the aftermarket ones are too think - ask me how I know.
The LX seems to be a reasonably reliable vehicle. The only real complain I have is the wearability of the front suspension and front brakes. The front caiper is a 4 piston unit and I find it has issues with even brake wear and freezing. Next go at it I will try rebuilding the calipers myself to see its systemic or what. New calipers are $400+ and the rebiult units are no better quality wise.
- AHU flush - as you stated - easy to do
- Brake fluid - as you stated - easy to do
- Front/Rear differential fluid - easy to do
- Transfer case - easy to do
- Filters
- Know your timing belt life. if its got 90K or more on it or worse, you don;t know and kind find out - replace it. Its a good 4-6 hr job.
- I'd change the oil and filter and put something good in it. Sometimes they put in cheap junk
- Repack the front wheel bearings - takes a goiod 3-4 hrs to do right
- Deal with the CV boots seeping cv grease
- Regarding the miss. It's unlikely its the gas. I run mid-grade with high grade once in a blue moon. I find it makes no difference in power, mileage or performance. if you are over 100K miles you probably need new plugs. If you have COP, don;t loose the seals taking the coils out or putting them back in. You can;t purchase them separately and the aftermarket ones are too think - ask me how I know.
The LX seems to be a reasonably reliable vehicle. The only real complain I have is the wearability of the front suspension and front brakes. The front caiper is a 4 piston unit and I find it has issues with even brake wear and freezing. Next go at it I will try rebuilding the calipers myself to see its systemic or what. New calipers are $400+ and the rebiult units are no better quality wise.
I see on almost every thread do not EVER use anything but the LEXUS branded AHU Oil? I have no issue buying that just wondering if after all of these years anything better has came along? Thank you for your input.
01-13-14, 09:36 AM
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AHU is special oil. There is no substitute that I am aware of and there are many examples of very quick dampener membrane failure if you do use a substitute. The AHU oil is pink when new.
I use Mobile 1 5W-30. I am considering switching to the Euro blend. The euro blend has a little different characteristics. My wife's Mercedes takes it at 0W-40. I am not a big advocate for the specialty oils like Royal urple and Amsoil. If you look at their spec's they are almost identical, yet the cost is ridiculous. Royal Purple is really geared for people that intend to use their vehicles hard and change it often. I'm sure I will get some haters on this, but the reality is that you can get a 5qt container of Mobile 1 from Walmart for less than $30. I acutally buy 2 and pour the 2qts from the 2nd on. I don't know what the oil minder timing is, but I think the engine probably uses close to 1 qt between changes, which I consider quite acceptable.
190K is a lot of miles but in the grand scheme of things, its designed for about 500K, so not too bad.
I use Mobile 1 5W-30. I am considering switching to the Euro blend. The euro blend has a little different characteristics. My wife's Mercedes takes it at 0W-40. I am not a big advocate for the specialty oils like Royal urple and Amsoil. If you look at their spec's they are almost identical, yet the cost is ridiculous. Royal Purple is really geared for people that intend to use their vehicles hard and change it often. I'm sure I will get some haters on this, but the reality is that you can get a 5qt container of Mobile 1 from Walmart for less than $30. I acutally buy 2 and pour the 2qts from the 2nd on. I don't know what the oil minder timing is, but I think the engine probably uses close to 1 qt between changes, which I consider quite acceptable.
190K is a lot of miles but in the grand scheme of things, its designed for about 500K, so not too bad.
01-13-14, 10:23 PM
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AHU is special oil. There is no substitute that I am aware of and there are many examples of very quick dampener membrane failure if you do use a substitute. The AHU oil is pink when new.
I use Mobile 1 5W-30. I am considering switching to the Euro blend. The euro blend has a little different characteristics. My wife's Mercedes takes it at 0W-40. I am not a big advocate for the specialty oils like Royal urple and Amsoil. If you look at their spec's they are almost identical, yet the cost is ridiculous. Royal Purple is really geared for people that intend to use their vehicles hard and change it often. I'm sure I will get some haters on this, but the reality is that you can get a 5qt container of Mobile 1 from Walmart for less than $30. I acutally buy 2 and pour the 2qts from the 2nd on. I don't know what the oil minder timing is, but I think the engine probably uses close to 1 qt between changes, which I consider quite acceptable.
190K is a lot of miles but in the grand scheme of things, its designed for about 500K, so not too bad.
I use Mobile 1 5W-30. I am considering switching to the Euro blend. The euro blend has a little different characteristics. My wife's Mercedes takes it at 0W-40. I am not a big advocate for the specialty oils like Royal urple and Amsoil. If you look at their spec's they are almost identical, yet the cost is ridiculous. Royal Purple is really geared for people that intend to use their vehicles hard and change it often. I'm sure I will get some haters on this, but the reality is that you can get a 5qt container of Mobile 1 from Walmart for less than $30. I acutally buy 2 and pour the 2qts from the 2nd on. I don't know what the oil minder timing is, but I think the engine probably uses close to 1 qt between changes, which I consider quite acceptable.
190K is a lot of miles but in the grand scheme of things, its designed for about 500K, so not too bad.
01-14-14, 07:06 AM
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If you look at the spec's for the euro oil it just a tad better (imho). I haven't switched and just changed the oil this weekend. I ended up using the high mileage version of the oil. No clue if that will matter. I needed to do the change and they didn't have regular 5W-30 M1.
01-14-14, 10:09 PM
#7
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Congratulations on a nice find on a 2000 model. It sounds like the owner took good care of it.
A tiny miss - could be bad gas or condensate - not unusual in winter. I have found gumout regane or techron effective as a fuel system treatment for such problems. The difference between regular and premium is more subtle, to doubt octane is the issue. The engine will give several more HP and a bit more torque with premium. 91 octane will run smoother and have more power. On a long trip, I can tell the difference using cruise control on rolling hill terrain. The transmission will downshift more frequently on regular gas. I ran my LC mostly on 87 while my LX has mostly seen 91-93 octane. The smoother shifts and responsiveness make for a pleasant drive. The mileage improvement using premium is minimal, less than 5% improvement. I eventually moved to premium on trips with the LC, and then full time with the LX.
I have used almost exclusively full synthetic oil in mine, typically Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, or Amsoil. I like either the Mobil 1 (M1-209, large but fits) or the OEM filter, With Mobil 1 oil and filter I tend to go with 10K mile intervals. With Mobil 1 Extended or Amsoil,Signature I may go with up to 15K with the M1 filter. The spec is 5W-30, though Amsoil Signature comes in 0W-20.
The AHC fluid needs to be the Toyota branded product, which is clear or a light pink depending on the batch. It should be drained and replaced every 60K miles. You will notice a difference with the new.
You can take the vehicle to any Lexus dealer and have them run the records for the VIn - any service by a Lexus dealer will be available.
The LX470 did not come with HIDs, but I am happy with the projector lens and H1 bulb. I get mine from Europe by Philips or Osram through Powerbulbs. Quite pleased.
The key could be problematic. Check and see if your key will lock the glove box. If so, it is a master. If not, it is a valet key (sub key). You need a master key to program additional keys. There is a process for resetting it all, but it may be worthwhile having the dealer do one master key for you. Sewell sells a master key without the remote buttons for reasonable. The valet is usually gray and the master black plastic. Once you have a master key, so can program other keys.
You can replace the NAV CPU located under the passenger seat with a Gen4 unit. I just did it and it works well. It adds a few menu options but not newer features such as Bluetooth, vehicle info, and backup camera - though it has those capabilities if you want to add systems. Some have connected a backup camera effectively.
Enjoy!
A tiny miss - could be bad gas or condensate - not unusual in winter. I have found gumout regane or techron effective as a fuel system treatment for such problems. The difference between regular and premium is more subtle, to doubt octane is the issue. The engine will give several more HP and a bit more torque with premium. 91 octane will run smoother and have more power. On a long trip, I can tell the difference using cruise control on rolling hill terrain. The transmission will downshift more frequently on regular gas. I ran my LC mostly on 87 while my LX has mostly seen 91-93 octane. The smoother shifts and responsiveness make for a pleasant drive. The mileage improvement using premium is minimal, less than 5% improvement. I eventually moved to premium on trips with the LC, and then full time with the LX.
I have used almost exclusively full synthetic oil in mine, typically Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, or Amsoil. I like either the Mobil 1 (M1-209, large but fits) or the OEM filter, With Mobil 1 oil and filter I tend to go with 10K mile intervals. With Mobil 1 Extended or Amsoil,Signature I may go with up to 15K with the M1 filter. The spec is 5W-30, though Amsoil Signature comes in 0W-20.
The AHC fluid needs to be the Toyota branded product, which is clear or a light pink depending on the batch. It should be drained and replaced every 60K miles. You will notice a difference with the new.
You can take the vehicle to any Lexus dealer and have them run the records for the VIn - any service by a Lexus dealer will be available.
The LX470 did not come with HIDs, but I am happy with the projector lens and H1 bulb. I get mine from Europe by Philips or Osram through Powerbulbs. Quite pleased.
The key could be problematic. Check and see if your key will lock the glove box. If so, it is a master. If not, it is a valet key (sub key). You need a master key to program additional keys. There is a process for resetting it all, but it may be worthwhile having the dealer do one master key for you. Sewell sells a master key without the remote buttons for reasonable. The valet is usually gray and the master black plastic. Once you have a master key, so can program other keys.
You can replace the NAV CPU located under the passenger seat with a Gen4 unit. I just did it and it works well. It adds a few menu options but not newer features such as Bluetooth, vehicle info, and backup camera - though it has those capabilities if you want to add systems. Some have connected a backup camera effectively.
Enjoy!
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01-14-14, 10:36 PM
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Congratulations on a nice find on a 2000 model. It sounds like the owner took good care of it.
A tiny miss - could be bad gas or condensate - not unusual in winter. I have found gumout regane or techron effective as a fuel system treatment for such problems. The difference between regular and premium is more subtle, to doubt octane is the issue. The engine will give several more HP and a bit more torque with premium. 91 octane will run smoother and have more power. On a long trip, I can tell the difference using cruise control on rolling hill terrain. The transmission will downshift more frequently on regular gas. I ran my LC mostly on 87 while my LX has mostly seen 91-93 octane. The smoother shifts and responsiveness make for a pleasant drive. The mileage improvement using premium is minimal, less than 5% improvement. I eventually moved to premium on trips with the LC, and then full time with the LX.
I have used almost exclusively full synthetic oil in mine, typically Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, or Amsoil. I like either the Mobil 1 (M1-209, large but fits) or the OEM filter, With Mobil 1 oil and filter I tend to go with 10K mile intervals. With Mobil 1 Extended or Amsoil,Signature I may go with up to 15K with the M1 filter. The spec is 5W-30, though Amsoil Signature comes in 0W-20.
The AHC fluid needs to be the Toyota branded product, which is clear or a light pink depending on the batch. It should be drained and replaced every 60K miles. You will notice a difference with the new.
You can take the vehicle to any Lexus dealer and have them run the records for the VIn - any service by a Lexus dealer will be available.
The LX470 did not come with HIDs, but I am happy with the projector lens and H1 bulb. I get mine from Europe by Philips or Osram through Powerbulbs. Quite pleased.
The key could be problematic. Check and see if your key will lock the glove box. If so, it is a master. If not, it is a valet key (sub key). You need a master key to program additional keys. There is a process for resetting it all, but it may be worthwhile having the dealer do one master key for you. Sewell sells a master key without the remote buttons for reasonable. The valet is usually gray and the master black plastic. Once you have a master key, so can program other keys.
You can replace the NAV CPU located under the passenger seat with a Gen4 unit. I just did it and it works well. It adds a few menu options but not newer features such as Bluetooth, vehicle info, and backup camera - though it has those capabilities if you want to add systems. Some have connected a backup camera effectively.
Enjoy!
A tiny miss - could be bad gas or condensate - not unusual in winter. I have found gumout regane or techron effective as a fuel system treatment for such problems. The difference between regular and premium is more subtle, to doubt octane is the issue. The engine will give several more HP and a bit more torque with premium. 91 octane will run smoother and have more power. On a long trip, I can tell the difference using cruise control on rolling hill terrain. The transmission will downshift more frequently on regular gas. I ran my LC mostly on 87 while my LX has mostly seen 91-93 octane. The smoother shifts and responsiveness make for a pleasant drive. The mileage improvement using premium is minimal, less than 5% improvement. I eventually moved to premium on trips with the LC, and then full time with the LX.
I have used almost exclusively full synthetic oil in mine, typically Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, or Amsoil. I like either the Mobil 1 (M1-209, large but fits) or the OEM filter, With Mobil 1 oil and filter I tend to go with 10K mile intervals. With Mobil 1 Extended or Amsoil,Signature I may go with up to 15K with the M1 filter. The spec is 5W-30, though Amsoil Signature comes in 0W-20.
The AHC fluid needs to be the Toyota branded product, which is clear or a light pink depending on the batch. It should be drained and replaced every 60K miles. You will notice a difference with the new.
You can take the vehicle to any Lexus dealer and have them run the records for the VIn - any service by a Lexus dealer will be available.
The LX470 did not come with HIDs, but I am happy with the projector lens and H1 bulb. I get mine from Europe by Philips or Osram through Powerbulbs. Quite pleased.
The key could be problematic. Check and see if your key will lock the glove box. If so, it is a master. If not, it is a valet key (sub key). You need a master key to program additional keys. There is a process for resetting it all, but it may be worthwhile having the dealer do one master key for you. Sewell sells a master key without the remote buttons for reasonable. The valet is usually gray and the master black plastic. Once you have a master key, so can program other keys.
You can replace the NAV CPU located under the passenger seat with a Gen4 unit. I just did it and it works well. It adds a few menu options but not newer features such as Bluetooth, vehicle info, and backup camera - though it has those capabilities if you want to add systems. Some have connected a backup camera effectively.
Enjoy!
anyone know off the top of there head what is required to have them make a key for me? I know with my BMW they needed PROOF such as reg or pink slip that i own the car? I would presume its about the same? Dealer should be able to make/order the key based on the vin or the valet key correct? Meaning they don't have to rip my dash and ignition apart to make the key right? lol And about how much woulg ordering a key and having them program it cost? Also anyone know if the 06-07 Factory LED tails would fit on a 2000? Also this is slightly off topic and I doubt anytime soon i would ever need to do this BUT Might as well hear the good or bad news now than later lol. Would the VVTI Engine swap into mine without much effort? In addition how about the 5 speed transmission? Just wondering! But over all so far i LOVE this thing! its very awesome! Thanks again for all of your input!
01-16-14, 01:58 AM
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Was wondering about some switches that work but are not illuminated such as one of the back vent window opening and closing switch seems the bulb is burned out. can replacement bulbs be bought? or does the entire switch need to be bought? And if I can buy the bulb can a part number or bulb size be provided! Thanks again in advance for your input!
01-16-14, 11:05 AM
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Ok just called Lexus about the bulbs and they said almost all of the bulbs on the switches can be replaced and gave me the part number 8499910310 hope this helps anyone who was wondering this! It helped me! Haha
01-16-14, 02:57 PM
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Well, this is good to know! Seems these little things can be a bit pricey.
I read somewhere that might be a #74 bulb. maybe someone can confirm it. I was able to find them for under a $1 each plus shipping. got curious as I like to buy LED lights now and I found
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...FclQOgodeH8Aww
I've purchased LED bulbs from them before and had good luck. These are just about $1.20 each
I read somewhere that might be a #74 bulb. maybe someone can confirm it. I was able to find them for under a $1 each plus shipping. got curious as I like to buy LED lights now and I found
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...FclQOgodeH8Aww
I've purchased LED bulbs from them before and had good luck. These are just about $1.20 each
01-17-14, 02:25 PM
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So this led is the ones for the switches!? If so I will replace all of them! Haha I love LEDs! Anyone know the size of the bulbs in the cluster speedo etc? Thanks! Also might experiment with different color LEDs! Haha
01-17-14, 07:17 PM
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Before you go hog wild, make sure a #74 bulb is the correct translation for that part number.
I don;t thikn I would take the whole thing apart for the ske of having an LED bulb. Once it has to come apart I would most certianly do it
I don;t thikn I would take the whole thing apart for the ske of having an LED bulb. Once it has to come apart I would most certianly do it