brakes
11-03-04, 09:04 AM
#2
Pole Position
It's a pretty big and messy job with the 450, but I'm not sure if it's quite the same with the 470. The LX470 has IFS while the 450 has a straight axle (which involves more work to get at the brake rotors -- you basically begin an axle tear down to get to the rotors). I saw someone work on a Tacoma (which is also IFS) and replace the brake rotors -- this was a VERY easy job. If the 470 is similar to the Tacoma, it's just a matter of removing a couple bolts and swaping out the rotor.
Sorry, but I don't think I was much help...if I find some info, I'll return and post here.
Sorry, but I don't think I was much help...if I find some info, I'll return and post here.
11-04-04, 10:58 PM
#4
Yes 200 is very fair. Make sure that you use the oem toyota pads as they are the best and longest lasting. That price almost sounds to low and that is why I am questioning the type of pads. I paid 160 for the front at a local brake shop but i had them order the toyota pads and shims.
11-05-04, 01:42 AM
#5
Pole Position
Originally posted by lx470man
does 200 dollars sound good to get these brakes and pads installed? front and back.
does 200 dollars sound good to get these brakes and pads installed? front and back.
I had a Toyota dealership try to charge me $200 for just a brake pad replacement on the front brakes -- a 20 minute job at most if I do the job myself (which I did in that case).
Make sure it's for new pads and new rotors (all new OEM Toyota parts).
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11-08-04, 10:00 AM
#8
Pole Position
I'd spend about half of the $200 and get a factory service manual and learn the basics of maintenance myself -- brakes are easy enough to work on, but it REALLY helps to have the factory manual. The other manuals are okay, but no where near as detailed as the FSM.
$200 for labor isn't too bad, but this tells me that the front rotor replacement isn't all that tough to do on a 470. Replacing rotors on mine would be more that double that.
$200 for labor isn't too bad, but this tells me that the front rotor replacement isn't all that tough to do on a 470. Replacing rotors on mine would be more that double that.
11-14-04, 10:25 PM
#9
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i highly highly highly highly recommend goin to a dealership to get any kind of brake job done on your lx. Those rotors are a PITA to get out, since they're pressed in. When getting new pads installed along with resurfacing your front rotors, the front rotors are never taken off your vehicle. Dealerships use an on vehicle brake lathe for the fronts. The rears are easy to do, but please don't bother messing with the fronts unless you have the right tools...and new bearing seals
02-16-09, 11:10 AM
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If it's for an LX470, the front hub has to be removed to replace the rotors. You'll need a big socket to remove the axlenut, but all in all, it's not difficult, and a great time to repack the grease in the bearings.
The rears are pretty straightforward, but it does have the drum/parking brake setup so you can adjust that as well if changing the rear rotors.
Personally, I switched to Rotora's slotted rotors (F + R). It was cheaper than stock, and I like the idea of the slots sweeping the pad surface.
For pads i used Hawk LTS Light-Truck SUV pads (F + R) and they work great.
Make sure to flush the brake fluid every few yrs too. Your brakes will feel great!~
The rears are pretty straightforward, but it does have the drum/parking brake setup so you can adjust that as well if changing the rear rotors.
Personally, I switched to Rotora's slotted rotors (F + R). It was cheaper than stock, and I like the idea of the slots sweeping the pad surface.
For pads i used Hawk LTS Light-Truck SUV pads (F + R) and they work great.
Make sure to flush the brake fluid every few yrs too. Your brakes will feel great!~
02-18-09, 07:26 PM
#14
The rotor removal procedure is IDENTICAL for landcruisers up through 2007 and toyota mini pickups/4runners through 1995. Of the top of my head...
1) Jack up front of vehicle, remove wheels.
2) Remove brake hose bracket (the one that bolts to the upper A-arm). You might also need to remove the clip at the soft line/hard line bracket behind the caliper.
3) Remove dust cap (screwdriver & hammer) & 4wd flange. You need to remove the cone washers (big hammer and brass bar at least 3/4" dia)
4) Remove snap ring (use snap ring pliers)
5) Remove brake caliper mounting bolts (17mm deep socket). Rest caliper on something (I turn a bucket upside down and rest it on that)
6) Straighten out tabs on lock washer, remove outer axle nut, lock washer, inner axle nut, and claw washer with 54mm hex socket SST.
Now the entire rotor/front hub assembly & bearings pull out as one piece. You can repack the inner bearing (need 2 inner bearing seals). There is a detailed method to retorque everything to spec (you will need a fish scale to get the proper tension). This job takes about 3.5-4 hrs if you've done it before and know all the tricks and have the right tools (maybe 10 if you haven't). That's why the dealer charges $350-400 for a front bearing repack. It's only $3 in grease and $40 in seals/gaskets/lock washers, but 3+ hrs of labor @ $120+/hr!
Note that there is NO additional labor to replace the front rotors if doing a front bearing repack other than removing the 6 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub! If they tell you otherwise, they are trying to scam you! It's critical to properly torque everything, especially the axle nuts and bolts that hold the rotor on. Last thing you want is a tech who uses an impact wrench and over-tightens some of the bolts holding the rotor on, causing it to warp. The only warped rotors I've had were done by the dealer (once on my 4runner, once on my LX at CPO). In the 4runner case, I tore it all down and installed slotted rotors and carbon/kevlar pads. That was in 2002 and they are still perfectly true! I did my LX in '07 w/ slotted rotors and porterfield kevlar carbon pads w/ stoptech stainless hoses and the braking is excellent, very smooth and firm.
--Jim
1) Jack up front of vehicle, remove wheels.
2) Remove brake hose bracket (the one that bolts to the upper A-arm). You might also need to remove the clip at the soft line/hard line bracket behind the caliper.
3) Remove dust cap (screwdriver & hammer) & 4wd flange. You need to remove the cone washers (big hammer and brass bar at least 3/4" dia)
4) Remove snap ring (use snap ring pliers)
5) Remove brake caliper mounting bolts (17mm deep socket). Rest caliper on something (I turn a bucket upside down and rest it on that)
6) Straighten out tabs on lock washer, remove outer axle nut, lock washer, inner axle nut, and claw washer with 54mm hex socket SST.
Now the entire rotor/front hub assembly & bearings pull out as one piece. You can repack the inner bearing (need 2 inner bearing seals). There is a detailed method to retorque everything to spec (you will need a fish scale to get the proper tension). This job takes about 3.5-4 hrs if you've done it before and know all the tricks and have the right tools (maybe 10 if you haven't). That's why the dealer charges $350-400 for a front bearing repack. It's only $3 in grease and $40 in seals/gaskets/lock washers, but 3+ hrs of labor @ $120+/hr!
Note that there is NO additional labor to replace the front rotors if doing a front bearing repack other than removing the 6 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub! If they tell you otherwise, they are trying to scam you! It's critical to properly torque everything, especially the axle nuts and bolts that hold the rotor on. Last thing you want is a tech who uses an impact wrench and over-tightens some of the bolts holding the rotor on, causing it to warp. The only warped rotors I've had were done by the dealer (once on my 4runner, once on my LX at CPO). In the 4runner case, I tore it all down and installed slotted rotors and carbon/kevlar pads. That was in 2002 and they are still perfectly true! I did my LX in '07 w/ slotted rotors and porterfield kevlar carbon pads w/ stoptech stainless hoses and the braking is excellent, very smooth and firm.
--Jim