90k service interval- price check (2010 LX)
#1
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90k service interval- price check (2010 LX)
I have a 2010 LX 570 approaching 90k miles. I have taken my LX and my LS 430 to my Toyota dealer for the last 2 1/2 years after getting ripped off by a Lexus dealership for service. My Toyota guy is a certified platinum Lexus mechanic and I have had good luck so far (knock on wood) including having him do the "major" service intervals on my LS (water pump, timing belt, transmission fluid drain/refill).
Got a price quote from him to do the 90k service on the LX and he came in at $700 before tax. Does that sound right? My understanding is these have timing chains instead of belts (can someone confirm) and he said they didn't recommend water pump at 90k- they take a look at it at every service interval and will let me know when to do it.
I tried searching the forum for "90k" and didn't see any threads where it showed what folks were getting done and what they're paying. Please let me know if this sounds reasonable for the recommended 90k interval without a timing belt and water pump. Thank you,
Got a price quote from him to do the 90k service on the LX and he came in at $700 before tax. Does that sound right? My understanding is these have timing chains instead of belts (can someone confirm) and he said they didn't recommend water pump at 90k- they take a look at it at every service interval and will let me know when to do it.
I tried searching the forum for "90k" and didn't see any threads where it showed what folks were getting done and what they're paying. Please let me know if this sounds reasonable for the recommended 90k interval without a timing belt and water pump. Thank you,
#2
Pole Position
I have a 2010 LX 570 approaching 90k miles. I have taken my LX and my LS 430 to my Toyota dealer for the last 2 1/2 years after getting ripped off by a Lexus dealership for service. My Toyota guy is a certified platinum Lexus mechanic and I have had good luck so far (knock on wood) including having him do the "major" service intervals on my LS (water pump, timing belt, transmission fluid drain/refill).
Got a price quote from him to do the 90k service on the LX and he came in at $700 before tax. Does that sound right? My understanding is these have timing chains instead of belts (can someone confirm) and he said they didn't recommend water pump at 90k- they take a look at it at every service interval and will let me know when to do it.
I tried searching the forum for "90k" and didn't see any threads where it showed what folks were getting done and what they're paying. Please let me know if this sounds reasonable for the recommended 90k interval without a timing belt and water pump. Thank you,
Got a price quote from him to do the 90k service on the LX and he came in at $700 before tax. Does that sound right? My understanding is these have timing chains instead of belts (can someone confirm) and he said they didn't recommend water pump at 90k- they take a look at it at every service interval and will let me know when to do it.
I tried searching the forum for "90k" and didn't see any threads where it showed what folks were getting done and what they're paying. Please let me know if this sounds reasonable for the recommended 90k interval without a timing belt and water pump. Thank you,
Water pumps had issues with Tundra's, none with Cruisers nor LX's as the engines are made 100% in Japan. With 90K on any car, I'd check the water pump and hoses for pink residue...first sign of leakage.
In spite of having what 'Yota calls "lifetime" transmission fluid, I would make damn sure it gets flushed at 90K. I'd say the same thing with AHC fluid at 90K...essentially just bleed and refill the reservoir. Iirc, you're probably looking at diff's and the transfer case.
I have no idea as to your quote...I tend to just buy the fluids and diy it.
hth
Steve
#3
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The Tundra / Cruiser / LX 5.7 engines, have, thank you, God, timing chains.
Water pumps had issues with Tundra's, none with Cruisers nor LX's as the engines are made 100% in Japan. With 90K on any car, I'd check the water pump and hoses for pink residue...first sign of leakage.
In spite of having what 'Yota calls "lifetime" transmission fluid, I would make damn sure it gets flushed at 90K. I'd say the same thing with AHC fluid at 90K...essentially just bleed and refill the reservoir. Iirc, you're probably looking at diff's and the transfer case.
I have no idea as to your quote...I tend to just buy the fluids and diy it.
hth
Steve
Water pumps had issues with Tundra's, none with Cruisers nor LX's as the engines are made 100% in Japan. With 90K on any car, I'd check the water pump and hoses for pink residue...first sign of leakage.
In spite of having what 'Yota calls "lifetime" transmission fluid, I would make damn sure it gets flushed at 90K. I'd say the same thing with AHC fluid at 90K...essentially just bleed and refill the reservoir. Iirc, you're probably looking at diff's and the transfer case.
I have no idea as to your quote...I tend to just buy the fluids and diy it.
hth
Steve
#4
But my Sequoia is 2008. Maybe the quality of the pump is better now.
Last edited by ClaytonW; 05-31-16 at 06:03 PM.
#6
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Very helpful; thank you. So is it OK to "flush" the transmission fluid on the LX? On my LS 430 (2004) that was a topic of big debate on the forum with the vast majority of folks saying not to do that- instead let the engine sit cool for roughly 24 hours, drain, and refill. That's what 2 separate independent certified Lexus guys recommended on that car as well. Any idea if that's what would be recommended on the 2010 LX? I don't remember him saying anything with transmission fluid was part of the $700- I will try to call him and get the specs of what was included. Pretty sure the diff's and transfer case were though. Thanks again,
I'd say that if you want to change it all, a flush is the only way. There's no drain plug on the tranny (at least on my '13 cruiser)...it would be a lot easier if they left the plug on from the series 100 to 200 change. Since the torque converter doesn't have a plug(s), you're left with a bunch of old atf if you just drain (and the pan needs pulling to do that) and refill. The counterpoint theories is that the flush can mix up crap and sediment and maybe not remove all of it. Some also say that marginal seals and o-rings can leak under flushing pressure...illogical as trans pressures are always higher than a flushing machine.
I haven't enough miles on the Cruiser yet to do a trans fluid change or flush. On wife's '01 LX, I simply drain the pan (just under 4 quarts) and refill with every oil change, and they're every 5K. In theory, I should be running atf eventually with 99% + fluid that's no more than 20K old.
Do not forget your AHC.
#7
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I don't have enough miles to do any of the services you mentioned on my 2013 LX570 yet. So far just oil changes.
But on my previous 2000 LX470, the Lexus dealer did mention about the water pump change at around 90k miles, but left the option to me. They did say if I changed the water pump at that time I would save some labor since they are going to change the timing belt anyway (this was what I had remembered the LX470 had a timing belt. Correct me if I'm wrong). I opted to NOT change the water pump until like 180k miles. Even at 180k miles, there was no leaks and I examined the old water pump, it looked fine. I figure at 180k miles, I don't want to roll the dice any more, especially my wife drove it most of the time with kids.
You are right about the fact that the LX570 are all built in Japan. There was a change of the "old master crew" who built these LX and Land Cruisers for a LONG TIME in Japan back in the early 2004 ish (correct me if I'm wrong). This "old master crew" for the most part retired around 2004ish. The quality of the LX and LC took a slight dip as the "new crew" came onboard. That's probably why in certain markets, people seek out old LX and LC built prior to the switch over and avoid the couple of years during which the switch took place.
I waited until 2013 to go for the LX570. I tried in 2012, but there was a hiatus for 2012 on the LX. I guess due to the earthquake and tsunami.
Overall, I think the LX is very solid. I wished the Range Rovers are the same, but they are not. So I'm sticking with Lexus.
But on my previous 2000 LX470, the Lexus dealer did mention about the water pump change at around 90k miles, but left the option to me. They did say if I changed the water pump at that time I would save some labor since they are going to change the timing belt anyway (this was what I had remembered the LX470 had a timing belt. Correct me if I'm wrong). I opted to NOT change the water pump until like 180k miles. Even at 180k miles, there was no leaks and I examined the old water pump, it looked fine. I figure at 180k miles, I don't want to roll the dice any more, especially my wife drove it most of the time with kids.
You are right about the fact that the LX570 are all built in Japan. There was a change of the "old master crew" who built these LX and Land Cruisers for a LONG TIME in Japan back in the early 2004 ish (correct me if I'm wrong). This "old master crew" for the most part retired around 2004ish. The quality of the LX and LC took a slight dip as the "new crew" came onboard. That's probably why in certain markets, people seek out old LX and LC built prior to the switch over and avoid the couple of years during which the switch took place.
I waited until 2013 to go for the LX570. I tried in 2012, but there was a hiatus for 2012 on the LX. I guess due to the earthquake and tsunami.
Overall, I think the LX is very solid. I wished the Range Rovers are the same, but they are not. So I'm sticking with Lexus.
The Tundra / Cruiser / LX 5.7 engines, have, thank you, God, timing chains.
Water pumps had issues with Tundra's, none with Cruisers nor LX's as the engines are made 100% in Japan. With 90K on any car, I'd check the water pump and hoses for pink residue...first sign of leakage.
In spite of having what 'Yota calls "lifetime" transmission fluid, I would make damn sure it gets flushed at 90K. I'd say the same thing with AHC fluid at 90K...essentially just bleed and refill the reservoir. Iirc, you're probably looking at diff's and the transfer case.
I have no idea as to your quote...I tend to just buy the fluids and diy it.
hth
Steve
Water pumps had issues with Tundra's, none with Cruisers nor LX's as the engines are made 100% in Japan. With 90K on any car, I'd check the water pump and hoses for pink residue...first sign of leakage.
In spite of having what 'Yota calls "lifetime" transmission fluid, I would make damn sure it gets flushed at 90K. I'd say the same thing with AHC fluid at 90K...essentially just bleed and refill the reservoir. Iirc, you're probably looking at diff's and the transfer case.
I have no idea as to your quote...I tend to just buy the fluids and diy it.
hth
Steve
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#8
You're welcome, again.
I'd say that if you want to change it all, a flush is the only way. There's no drain plug on the tranny (at least on my '13 cruiser)...it would be a lot easier if they left the plug on from the series 100 to 200 change. Since the torque converter doesn't have a plug(s), you're left with a bunch of old atf if you just drain (and the pan needs pulling to do that) and refill. The counterpoint theories is that the flush can mix up crap and sediment and maybe not remove all of it. Some also say that marginal seals and o-rings can leak under flushing pressure...illogical as trans pressures are always higher than a flushing machine.
I haven't enough miles on the Cruiser yet to do a trans fluid change or flush. On wife's '01 LX, I simply drain the pan (just under 4 quarts) and refill with every oil change, and they're every 5K. In theory, I should be running atf eventually with 99% + fluid that's no more than 20K old.
Do not forget your AHC.
I'd say that if you want to change it all, a flush is the only way. There's no drain plug on the tranny (at least on my '13 cruiser)...it would be a lot easier if they left the plug on from the series 100 to 200 change. Since the torque converter doesn't have a plug(s), you're left with a bunch of old atf if you just drain (and the pan needs pulling to do that) and refill. The counterpoint theories is that the flush can mix up crap and sediment and maybe not remove all of it. Some also say that marginal seals and o-rings can leak under flushing pressure...illogical as trans pressures are always higher than a flushing machine.
I haven't enough miles on the Cruiser yet to do a trans fluid change or flush. On wife's '01 LX, I simply drain the pan (just under 4 quarts) and refill with every oil change, and they're every 5K. In theory, I should be running atf eventually with 99% + fluid that's no more than 20K old.
Do not forget your AHC.
#9
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#10
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But on my previous 2000 LX470, the Lexus dealer did mention about the water pump change at around 90k miles, but left the option to me. They did say if I changed the water pump at that time I would save some labor since they are going to change the timing belt anyway (this was what I had remembered the LX470 had a timing belt. Correct me if I'm wrong). I opted to NOT change the water pump until like 180k miles. Even at 180k miles, there was no leaks and I examined the old water pump, it looked fine. I figure at 180k miles, I don't want to roll the dice any more, especially my wife drove it most of the time with kids.
I waited until 2013 to go for the LX570. I tried in 2012, but there was a hiatus for 2012 on the LX. I guess due to the earthquake and tsunami.
Overall, I think the LX is very solid. I wished the Range Rovers are the same, but they are not. So I'm sticking with Lexus.
I waited until 2013 to go for the LX570. I tried in 2012, but there was a hiatus for 2012 on the LX. I guess due to the earthquake and tsunami.
Overall, I think the LX is very solid. I wished the Range Rovers are the same, but they are not. So I'm sticking with Lexus.
Though on the 4.7 engine, since you're doing the TB every 90K, and since you need to remove the pump to get to the timing belt, and since the pump is an inexpensive part, you go ahead and proactively change the pump. Same idea as replacing the serpentine belt tensioner and / or idler if you're replacing the serpentine belt and either or both feel rough.
My "2013" Land Cruiser has a build date of February, 2012.
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