5960PAD

Made appointment for timing belt- GX 470 2007 with 109,000 miles. They suggested water pump at the same time and a drive belt well ok, then at appointment they called to say that water level was down by a third since 6 months ago oil change. Needs new Radiator Assembly $1277, then notice prob. with Power Rack and Pinion assy $1520, also slight leak or fluid in front drive axle so Axle shaft CV Boot $980 and of course new tires suggested YIKES, I didn't notice any fluids on my garage floor or any burning smell of oil I don't think we bought a lexus body with a GM mechanics??? Have others had to replace all this around 100k??

Jayson

Sounds excessive. You're closing in on $4000 in repairs at 107k miles which to me seems premature. I just paid about $3700 for repairs on our 2003 LX470 that included front brakes, power steering system, front axl boots, a radiator cap, and the scheduled service, but I'm well ahead of you at 160k miles.

You should ask one of the mods to move your post over to the GX thread to get more (and better) replies.

japerez1

This cost looks way out of line to me.

I have a 2002 LX470 with 191K miles and noticed a freshly broken CV boot just today. (That's why I'm on the site.) I think the GX470 is close to the LX470 for the various topics below but there may be minor differences.

If it were me I'd replace the timing belt and water pump with all Toyota parts. My experience with OEM pumps is that they can't make the distance to the next belt change. And the timing belt comes in a kit with new idler bearings that should be replaced. The old ones might be fine but I doubt they'll make it another 90K miles and if they go you'll be starting over at $1100 assuming the belt didn't snap when they freeze and trash the engine. The rest I'd forget about, get a second opinion, keep an eye on, etc. Also, the LX470 radiator fan spins on a bearing that is held in an "X" shaped aluminum housing called a "false water pump." The water pump is actually directly behind this assembly, bolted to the block and powered by the back side of the timing belt. The "false water pump" must be removed along with everything else to change the timing belt and water pump. I strongly suggest changing this "false water pump" on the second timing belt change at 180K miles, the bearing the fan spins on won't last much more than that and mine went at 170K. Since you're already at 109K, you might want to swap it out now. I paid $204 at Toyota (not the $396 at Lexus) and did it myself, a 7 hour job.

If a CV boot is ruptured you might have hit something to rupture it, 109K seems too fast to me for fatigue related failure. The boots spit grease like crazy forever but there is a bucket of grease in there. Unless the boot is ruptured, I'd let it go. Mine have been spitting grease over 80K miles!

Hope this helps, good luck.

GaryRama

thoughtful response and good advise.

retired

Is the cv boot split or is it just slinging grease from the clamps?....If it is from the factory clamp then there is a quick fix for this problem...You can either buy a tool to tighten the clamps ( I am told it cost about $25) or you can buy stainless steel radiator hose clamps and install them OVER the existing clamps ( three quarter to one and a quarter inch in diameter) . I was told by Toyota that my front cv boots were slinging grease and they needed to be replaced. I read about this quick fix and after installing the clamps the problem was solved.. .No more slinging grease from leaking clamps. I have a 01 LX 470 .. IF IT IS JUST THE CLAMP DONT LET IT GO...There is a bucket full of grease in there, but a MAJOR CONCERN is getting dirt and water into the cv axle which could cause premature failure.. Hope this helps..

kwatt1

I think your stealer is a ripoff, but the car is there and not here in front of any of us.

Replacing the water pump and timing belt as well as all the idlers and tensioner is appropriate. It's a weekend job if you do it yourself and take yuour time. While not terribly difficult, there are a lot of things to remove, etc. and an array of tools are need and a good mechanical skill is needed. It's worth between about $1000 at an indy. The stealer will hit you for for close to $1500 though some are kinder. There is NOTHING special about the work, a good indy can do the work without fear of the quality of work. The parts kit, with pump, is about $300.

The radiator issue seems a bit rediculous. If your radiator was leaking you would see coolant on the floor. Open the hood, look around and look for PINK/white powdery residue. When the coolant leaks it leaves that tell tale sign as it eva;porates. At that volume you will see it. I see it around the heater hose connections and other various connections. You need to figure out where the coolant is going to make sure its not going into the engine. 100K is time for new plugs. Take a look at them and see if they have residue on them to know you don't have a head gasket leak. Check the oil to make sure its not milky. Not trying to scare you on this but the stealer (in my experience) is good at fixing the wrong things first and the actual problem last) It's why I fix things myself where i can. Keep in mind, coolant is $25 per gallong pre-mixed.

What problem do they see with the pwer steering rack. About the only thing you can go wrong with it, at that mileage, is a leak or mount bushing wear. Look under the car at the tie rods and follow them back to the rack and pinion. Do you see any oil? if you do, then the diagonsis is legit. If not, go to an indy and ask thenm to look at it and see if its the bushings. They can be replaced but its a bit of work. There is a thread on it in the forum. just as an fyi, I find the suspension components start to fail on the LX arou nd 120K miles. I've replaced the upper control arms, I n eed to replace tie rod ends (particularly the inners) and I think the lower control arm bushings are shot. I've noticed the anti-sway end link bushings are cracked. I'm at 150K miles.

kwatt1

It's never been off road. But hard winters and salt are tough on rubber and potholes don't help. I had to replace both upper control arms to pass inspection. I know the tie rods need it; the truck wanders on the highway and lifting the wheel shows the play in the inner tie rods.

I figure next wheel bearing repack will be a good time to replace stuff.

Max707

Don't do anything, trade it for a new LX.