playboi

i've been seeing a lot of guys over at ih8mud using the OME lifts, the biggest lift i found was a 2'

i was looking for a 3' inch kit. Once i get this thing lifted what do ppl usually do about the ride height adjust? Is it worthless?

Dr. Jekyll

iTrader: (1)

The heavy lift will lift it a bit more if you're not running ARB bumpers, sliders and lighten your load in the back. Call the guys over at Slee Off Road, they're the resident experts on Old Man Emu.

playboi

i probably won't be doing ARB bumpers and all that since i'm no where near that hardcore.

rather do this than put 22's on it hahaha.

thanks i'll give them a ring sometime

Hoser

Using the OME set-up would mean replacing your AHC shocks and springs/t-bar. So there would be no height adjusting feature.

http://sleeoffroad.com/products/products_switches.htm

Down the page, bottom right. For $50, Slee's device will allow you to keep the AHC in HI mode. Be sure to get an alignment job if you plan to always drive it in HI mode. Slee's differential drop bracket would be a good idea too. The front suspension is limited to 2-2.5" of lift with typical methods. More lift can be had but it will be a lot more money.

V8_Fan

The only 2" lift kit I know of that allows one to keep the AHC fully functional is the one by Keepslant (JDM). Adjusting the AHC sensors so the AHC is always in high isn't a good way since you have practically no suspension downtravel. The OEM setup gives about equal up & down travel up front. The keepslant lift maintains this up/down travel by not only adjusting the AHC height sensor brackets, but also extending the AHC shocks via brackets. You need other parts so the suspension geometry stays the same since when you lift, the rear axle will pivot forward and to the left, hence the longer lateral rod in the rear to keep the axle centered. You also need extenders for the sway bars, etc. 2" is the most you can lift w/o having to replace the rear upper & lower rods, too, IMHO. Otherwise, the rear diff housing will pivot w/ the increased height, car will vibrate from the flanges of the U-joint at the output of the t-case and the U-joint at the rear diff not being parallel anymore. I've gone through all of this in my 4Runner, ended up shimming my rear axle by 3" to pivot the rear diff down. Otherwise, the car would vibrate quite a bit at 35mph in 4th gear. Now it just does a little at 45mph in 5th gear. Before the lift, it didn't have any of these problems.

http://www.keepslant.com/parts/active2.htm