jlawr

Anyone have a video of brake pad replacement? There are tons of pics, and I know it should be "easy." I just don't understand how to replace the pads by looking at the pics.
Thanx in advance.

swfla

iTrader: (1)

I've never done this myself. But, here's a LS 430 video link. Hope it helps.

CRowe14

I did my own brake job myself and it was the very first brake job I've ever done.
I'll post a link below of the step-by-step write up, though I didn't attached any photos, but I tried my best to keep it simple and self explanatory. If you have any questions, feel free to ask within the forum as you have, or PM me, RoadFrog or Doublebase, as we have all done our brakes in our garage.

I understand that you are only doing a pad replacement, so not all of my write up will be pertinent to you, however, I did go over the removal of the pads.
Just remember the way in which the hardware-pins and springs are placed over the pads. It may also help to take a few photos of the assembly before you take everything apart.
DO NOT..i repeat..DO NOT lose any springs or place them back in a backwards manner and pay special attention to the orientation of the springs/pins. Failure to do so will result in brake noise.
That is not to say that you wont have any brake noise, as some members have had to replace their hardware, but Roadfrog, Doublebase nor myself had to do so.
Once your wheel is off, and the caliper is exposed, it, in all honesty, should take you no more than 10-20 minutes to replace the pads.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...iy-pt-1-a.html

As I said, feel free to ask questions!
You can do it!
Hope the link helps and of course, good luck!

roadfrog

My only concern is that you question your ability to do this job....even with photos. It really is an easy job to do and there's always a first in every task we tackle. I don't know you or your DIY skills, but the job is easy in relation to brake pad replacement comparing other vehicles. There's no special tools required or witchcraft involved.

Couple of tips:

1. DO NOT disconnect any hydraulic lines. It's not necessary for pad replacement.
2. You'll need a large C clamp to compress the caliper piston.
3. Compressing the piston will push brake fluid into the brake reservoir, so it's a good idea to remove some brake fluid from it with a turkey baster. DO NOT spill any fluid on your paint! It will remove the paint.
4. Make sure to use the proper brake fluid. There's different types and ours uses DOT 3.
5. If your brakes make a pulsing/vibrating feel when your apply your brakes, then you will need to replace the rotors. Lexus/Toyota rotors are notoriously prone to warping. Don't bother turning (resurfacing) them.
6. If you've never had your brake fluid and system flushed, I would d so after you've tackled this job. It should be done every two years.
7. Your pads should come with a little packet of brake pad grease which prevents squealing. If they don't come with it, buy a tube at your local parts place. This grease is applied to the BACK side of the pads and should also be applied to the caliper pins/bolts.
8. Although it's not an absolute must, ideally you should have a torque wrench to re-torque the bolts to spec.

Good luck. As I stated, this is not a complicated or technically advanced job. In fact, it's one of the easiest brake jobs you can do. As my buddy Crowe stated, take pics and make sure the associated hardware (rattle springs etc) are re-installed properly. Ideally, I'd order a new set from Ebay or get them from your dealer (for a lot more money). I never replaced mine and reused them with no ill effect, but again....it's a good idea.

DiggerJim

Cleaning & greasing the caliper bolts is a step most people miss and it makes a big difference in not just squeaking/squealing but also smooth operation of the brakes. Sometimes as cars age these get light coating of rust/corrosion and then they can cause the pads to stick as they ride on the pins.

My personal 2 cents is that a torque wrench is really a required tool if you're going to do work on your own car. They're not hugely expensive and they can help prevent warping, stripping and other bad things when tightening bolts. Most people tend to over tighten bolts and with all the aluminum in our cars it's easy to go overboard. Well worth the $ to get a decent torque wrench. I always use the "savings" from a dealer doing the work to justify the purchase of new tools - if I save a couple hundred $ then I get to spend some of it on a new tool without guilt

CRowe14

Great info guys!
I have to say that in all honesty, I did grease the back side of my pads, but did NOT grease the pins that slide through the caliper and pads.
Just recently, I noticed that I get a very, VERY faint squeal when the car is almost completely stopped at a red light/stop sign, and its inconsistent, but it has happened about half a dozen times in the last week, and me driving it about 80-100 miles.
Any ideas?
Im thinking this may get worse over time and if I can head it off before that point, I absolutely will.
To the OP:
If you do exactly what Roadfrog has stated (great guy and his DIY's and spot on), and the loose change volunteered by Digger, honestly you shouldn't have an issue at all.
I didn't factor in your DIY capabilities though, so my apologies for that. But I do think that if you take your time, you'll be fine.
HOWEVER! If you seriously doubt your capabilities, theres no shame in contacting a good indy and letting them perform the job.

jlawr

Do you need to remove the pad sensor wire?
How many pounds do you torque the bolts?
...and thanx for your answers.

CRowe14

You don't need to remove the wire per say...
I'll try to answer this to the best of my ability...
There are only two sensors; one on read and one on the front and they are on the passenger side.
The are attached to the brake pad with a little clip to hold the sensor in place.
All you have to do is remove the clip, put it somewhere safe and place the wire with the sensor on the end, aside. No need to "remove" the wire, just sit it aside.
If I recall correctly, theres actually a small spring that holds and helps keep the wire in place so it doesn't flop around.
The sensor will easily attach to the new pads you've purchased. There will be a small grove specifically for the sensor to be placed in.
As far as ft/lbs, are you speaking about the bolts that hold on the rotor/tire?
From my understanding, I thought you were only doing pads.
If that's the case, there is no reason to remove the caliper, so torque specs wouldn't be necessary for caliper bolts.

jlawr

K. It get it. Thanx