Ascari_2

So I need a new set of pads/rotors and I will be doing the replacement tonight. I've done these types of jobs many times before and replaces the front rotors on my ISF. Is there anything unusual about the LS?

From what I gather the steps are:

• Disconnect the battery
• Remove the wheel
• Remove the pads
• Remove the caliper
• Remove the rotor
• Sand/clean the hub in preparation for new rotor
• Install new rotor
• Push pistons back into the caliper
• Reinstall caliper
• Clean and grease slide pins
• Install new pads
• Install slide pins
• Mount the wheel
• Repeat all around
• Reconnect the battery cable
• Bed the brakes via typical bedding procedures

Thanks

roadfrog

I never bother with the battery.

Also, depending how much you have to depress the caliper, you may want to remove some of the brake fluid so it doesn't spill over, then top up after the brakes are seated.

It's a very easy job on the LS!

williakz

Don't you have to clamp the pistons in place so they don't pop out?

roadfrog

Mine didn't pop out.

williakz

Thought I saw pics with the pistons clamped once the pads were removed. Seals probably hold them in, but maybe back-pressure from working on other calipers can force them out?

roadfrog

Hmmmm...I only do one wheel at a time, so no idea.

I should also add that, the retainer clips utilized by Toyota/Lexus are easily bent, so be careful with them. They keep the caliper pins from backing out.

Doublebase

Post some pictures, I'd love to see them. I personally wouldn't disconnect the battery...not on a car like this...next thing you know you'll have to reset the throttle body drive by wire system or something. ]f you do one side at a time you will not have to worry about the pistons popping out, the pads will hold them in when you have pressure built up from pushing them in. I would also like to mention you should use a good silicone grease on the pins, pad backing and sides, to prevent noise and sticking.

I also wonder if cracking the bleeder (when you push the pistons in) might not be a bad idea? Normally I don't waste my time doing this, but I wouldn't want to get any dirty fluid heading into that brake module. Then again cracking open the hydraulic system might pose some serious problems as well....it's just a thought though.

Devh

I think that is a good idea although I don't do it that way anymore because its messy and introduces air when you stop that can get trapped in the caliper which is hard to bleed out.
I think the best way to do it and the way I do it now is very slow compression of the piston so I don't have any worries of ruining the ABS passages on these cars.
I have heard of horror stories about the ABS units being ruined by backwards compression.

roadfrog

And if you get a brake flush as per the maintenance schedule, the fluid will be clean soon enough.

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

Might want to research this first - I've seen horror stories on this site (and others) re: related issues after bleeding the brakes without the proper equipment.

williakz

As in brake fluid "replacement" with a turkey baster sucking some fluid out of the reservoir and a handy bottle of fresh nearby to replace it? That flush?

01gs3

iTrader: (10)

Report back when you're done please!

I know there was a thread a few days ago about changing brakes and afterwards they didn't work. He needed techstream or something along those lines because the system sensed a pressure loss.

I'm guessing that's why you would want to disconnect the battery, but idk...

I've changed brake pads and rotors on all of my cars but I'm scared to touctouce 460 due to all the tech that could go wrong.

Good luck!

roadfrog

No. A flush involves hooking up to Techstream and flushing/bleeding the brakes. Even with Techstream, sometimes the system needs to be bled and flushed twice to eliminate the brake error codes that arise after a flush. If you do not open any bleed screws there should be no errors or codes thrown. Simply changing the pads and/or rotors will not cause any error codes or ABS lights etc.

Ascari_2

So regarding cracking open the bleeder screw. Assuming the pistons are pushed back slowly and consistently, with the screw being closed as the fluid is continuing to bleed out of it, is there any need for a full system bleed after the brakes are installed?

Logic seems to say that if no air gets into the caliper, then no need to bleed the entire system. But am I overlooking something here.

PS I am doing the brakes tomorrow morning.

roadfrog

Again, if you don't hook up to Techstream, you're going to get a few lights come up on your dash (ABS and Brake light errors) if you open brake lines.

That said, there is no need to open any bleeders! All you're doing is replacing hardware. Leave the brake lines etc alone.