roadfrog

As stated in the thread title.

Should I post pics and a how-to DIY? I did a search, but didn't see a post about this.

I was also going to do a write-up on changing the serpentine belt, but I see there's already one on that service.

Tee

Go for it!

greg3852

Most definitely. We all may need it at some point.

Nospinzone

Yes, definitely, but I'll probably wait for the movie.

robert1408

Heck yes, I would love to see that! I've seen drain and fills on my LS400 and an LS430 we had in the shop. They had drain ***** on each side of the block in addition to the radiator drain. It would be very interesting just to see what it looks like under there with the belly shields pulled off. If the LS 460 has block drains and you use them, be gentle tightening them. You may be pleasantly surprised at how clean the old coolant will probably look. All aluminum engines are often remarkably easy on their coolant.

jud149

That would be a great addition.

RodT

YES go for it

Devh

I would imagine if you are going to undo all of the taps including the ones on the engine block you may want to turn the heater on while adding coolant. Also I would read the service manual to see if there is a bleeding procedure. Some of the newer cars these days need to be bleed otherwise you may over heat the engine if a trapped bubble gets suck at the water pump impellers.

dlbuckls10

Post it. Its always helpful.

roadfrog

Well.....its all on hold for now. While replacing my serpentine belt, I broke the reservoir tank fitting on the rad. Same problem another member here had. He warned us, but I managed to break it anyway. Argh. So I'm working around that for now....have to repair it temporarily until my new rad arrives.

But wait...there's more! LOL. I also need a water pump. There was a huge clump of dried coolant around it, so apparently it's hooped too. Fortunately, neither of these parts are expensive - $60 for the rad with lifetime warranty and 55 for the water pump. Just have to wait for shipping.

Lextrician

this was a blessing..

roadfrog

Exactly. It also explains the couple of tbsp. of coolant I was adding every week. A VERY small leak/weeping that would only have gotten worse.

roadfrog

Guess I have another DIY post to do! LOL.

Stay tuned.......water pump goes in tomorrow. The rad will get replaced next week (and another DIY!) The rad I fixed with a barb fitting and it isn't leaking, but I'll replace it nonetheless.

Doublebase

I changed my coolant the other day...my internal struggle was weather to go with the super long life or the zerex Asian. I ended up going with the super long life because I knew I wasn't going to be able to get all the fluid out (which I didn't). I managed to change maybe a gallon and a half.

The bleeder port is right on top of the upper hose. I tried to get to the block drains, but I couldn't from underneath, I'd be willing to bet I could of come in from the sides if the tires were off. I plan on dumping the radiator again in a month or so to get as much new fluid in as I can. I paid 18 bucks per gallon for the toyota coolant...it was 13 for the zerex. The coolant looked pretty darn good when I was draining it...if that was dex cool it would of looked like cake batter.

roadfrog

Yeah, I couldn't get at the draincocks at the block either. However, because I replaced the water pump, radiator and all hoses, I was able to get more of the fluid out than you did. I'm good with that as I will now be replacing the coolant every few years. I went with the Toyota Super LL as well. I've had very good luck with Zerex in the past and it is quality, but I'm determined to stick with OEM lubricants as much as possible with this car.