If you don't go the route of a permanent coating, you can do it yourself with
However, since the sealants will seal everything that's underneath, you would need to do your own compounding and polishing. Richard Lin and Jeff McGovern are two of the best detailers in the country, so people in California are in good shape.
If you don't want a permanent coating and you're going normal synthetic sealants, my recommendation would be
1. Wash the car.
2. Decontaminate with IronX.
4. Decontaminate with a clay bar
6. *** compound and polish the car as your skill level allows with a dual action random orbiter***
- I'm a fan of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound + Surbuf *or* Orange pad depending on quality followed by a Lake County Green CCS pad + Optimum Hyper Polish followed by Black CCS pad + Meguiar's Ultimate Polish.
7. Prep the surface with Car Pro Eraser.
8. Mix Duragloss 501 with a 4:1 ratio with Duragloss 601.
9. Top layer of Duragloss 105 mixed with Duragloss 601 in same 4:1 ratio.
10. Final layer with Duragloss 951.
I would use Car Pro BOA microfiber since it's the cheapest good quality microfiber.
Maintenance would be wash with Optimum No-Rinse Car Wash + Duragloss 951.
For the floor mats and your tires, I like 303 Aerospace Protectant. For the tires, it gives a deep MATTE finish.
For your leather seats, I actually like Duragloss 221 for basic stuff. I was also impressed by Surf City Garage 133 Voodoo Blend Leather Rejuvenator.
I have restored really old leather on my armrest with Leather Honey. It is a bit tougher to work with so that it doesn't get sticky.
I like to use Meltonian #170 Shoe Cream (Delicate) for the leather steering wheel.
For glass, Surf City Garage 101 Clearly Cleaner actually works great. GlassWow is getting rave reviews:
but nowadays, I use my own mix of 35% IPA with optimium no rinse.
Costco Microfiber has enough grit for windows.