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Tire pressure system
03-19-14, 04:17 AM
#1
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Tire pressure system
Just got my 2008 LS 460. After driving for about 20 miles tire pressure system light came on telling me to go to dealership to have checked. After looking on line, I checked pressure of all tires including the spare (35 psi) and tried suggestion of turning on ignition without starting engine and pressed set button under dash. No success. Is this the right tire pressure? Any other suggestions? Also, don't feel the ride is as smooth as my 2002 LS 430.
03-19-14, 06:23 AM
#2
Just got my 2008 LS 460. After driving for about 20 miles tire pressure system light came on telling me to go to dealership to have checked. After looking on line, I checked pressure of all tires including the spare (35 psi) and tried suggestion of turning on ignition without starting engine and pressed set button under dash. No success. Is this the right tire pressure? Any other suggestions? Also, don't feel the ride is as smooth as my 2002 LS 430.
03-19-14, 09:08 AM
#4
If a sensor is not reporting then the warning will go off when you turn the ignition off and then come back on when the ignition has been on for about 30 minutes. For short drives you would never know that the sensor is not reporting except that the pressure display would have a position that always just indicates "checking."
Last edited by jmcraney; 03-19-14 at 10:01 AM. Reason: original response was ambiguous
03-19-14, 09:54 AM
#5
I think the most likely cause of what you are experiencing is a failure of one or more of the wheel sensors to report. The wheel sensors are battery powered, with a battery that cannot be replaced, and because of your car's age the batteries may be at the end of their life. You don't have to go to a Lexus dealer to get the sensors checked - most full service tire shops can check them for you. Battery life of the sensors is affected by both age and mileage. You need to familiarize yourself with the tire pressure benchmark procedure in your owner's manual. It is never correct to just reach under the dash and push that button. The button under the dash is a Benchmark Set button and not a Reset button. The tire pressure sensors on the car are as accurate or more accurate than most tire gauges so if you have a discrepancy with that you should trust the car sensors. The correct cold-inflation-pressure for most tires on these cars is 33 PSI.
Btw, I do not have the new S550 yet. But, it did arrive in Baltimore over this past weekend. Hopefully, I will be driving it in another week or so. Sometimes, there are significant delays in Baltimore with customs, etc.
03-19-14, 05:26 PM
#7
Moderator
I would go by your favorite tire store so they can double check programming is correct. Discount Tire Co will do that for free. If you need new sensors, you need part # pmv 107j. Check the wheel and tire info thread for more info. You can get a set of 4 under $100 on ebay. I bought my 4 this way since I have two sets of wheels.
Last edited by CJITTY; 03-19-14 at 07:15 PM.
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03-24-14, 04:45 AM
#8
I put on a new set of wheels on Friday. Used a set of TPMS sensors I had off my GS. I reset the codes using the ATEQ tool checked the display and everything was fine over the weekend. This morning on my drive to work the check tpms display came on. We did have a significant temperature drop, I have had this happen under this type of condition.
Before I go to a shop can I try the TPMS reset button under the dash?
Before I go to a shop can I try the TPMS reset button under the dash?
03-24-14, 08:55 AM
#9
Yes PeterinPA, it's time to press that button. But, you need to develop an understanding of the "Benchmark Procedure" before you do that or you may not get good results.
What is probably happening to you is that one or more of the pressures being reported by the tire sensors falls below the warning threshold. Normally the lowest pressure in the tires occurs in the morning, before the car is moved and then rises as the car is driven because the friction and flexure of rolling raises the temperature of the tires. The tires have a positive temperature coefficient, meaning that the pressure goes up as the temperature goes up. In the case of keeping the car in a warm, of relatively warmer, garage, the pressure goes down when the car is taken out into very cold ambient conditions. Typical temperature coefficients for tires is up to 1 PSI per 10 deg F, meaning that if you have your car in a 50 deg F garage and you take it out into 20 deg F air you might see the tire pressure drop 3 PSI. You can easily see that this indeed happens by watching the pressures that are reported in the multifunction display section of the dash. And you will probably notice that the pressure of the spare tire drops farther than the pressure of the tires that are rolling because it doesn’t benefit from friction/flexure action. If the tire-pressure/warning-threshold margin is not sufficient then the dropping pressure will cause the TPMS to give a low-pressure warning. For instance if the tire pressure starts off at 33 PSI and the warning-threshold is set to 31 PSI then when you will get a low-pressure warning after you take your car from a relatively warm garage to very cold. The warning is delayed because the pressure doesn’t drop instantly.
For most tires and most driving conditions the car’s manufacturer and the tire’s manufacturer have agreed that a cold inflation pressure and TPMS benchmark pressure of 33 PSI (that’s the pressure of the tires at the typically coldest part of the day, the morning in most instances, the spare is an exception that I will explain later) will provide the best tire performance (tread wear, traction, comfortable ride), greatest protection from underinflated tires and greatest protection from TPMS false alarms.
What so many people don’t understand is how the warning thresholds are established. We are unable to view the warning threshold settings directly so we must either establish them ourselves or have it done by someone we trust to do it correctly and then be vigilant that no one has reached under the dash and pushed that TPMS Set button.
The TPMS warning thresholds are entered indirectly by a process called Benchmarking. This is accomplished by adjusting the inflation of all 5 tires, four rollers and one spare, to the “normal pressure,” 33 PSI in most cases, and pressing the TPMS Set button under the dash. This establishes a warning threshold that is 25% below the normal pressure and in the case of 33 PSI the warning threshold would be at about 25 PSI.
You should only need to benchmark once as the setting will remain until the button is pressed again. The owner’s manual cautions that the benchmark must be redone whenever the battery is disconnected. I am not sure what happens when the battery is disconnected, I suspect that the benchmark is defaulted to 33 PSI but I always redo mine when the battery is disconnected.
Even though the benchmark only needs to be set one time, the tire pressures need periodic attention. The tires are constantly losing air through a process called permeation typically 0.5 PSI per month but up to 1 PSI per month is considered acceptable. You need to watch the pressure on the multifunction display when you first start up in the morning and keep your tire pressures adjusted for 33 PSI. This also requires a seasonal adjustment in that you may have to let some air out when the temperatures suddenly turn warm and you will definitely have to add some air when the temperatures suddenly turn cold.
About the spare: be sure to benchmark it at 33 PSI. I like to inflate my spare to 40 PSI after I benchmark it at 33 PSI. That way I don’t have to give it any attention for permeation or seasonal considerations until its startup pressure falls below 33 PSI.
I hope this helps.
What is probably happening to you is that one or more of the pressures being reported by the tire sensors falls below the warning threshold. Normally the lowest pressure in the tires occurs in the morning, before the car is moved and then rises as the car is driven because the friction and flexure of rolling raises the temperature of the tires. The tires have a positive temperature coefficient, meaning that the pressure goes up as the temperature goes up. In the case of keeping the car in a warm, of relatively warmer, garage, the pressure goes down when the car is taken out into very cold ambient conditions. Typical temperature coefficients for tires is up to 1 PSI per 10 deg F, meaning that if you have your car in a 50 deg F garage and you take it out into 20 deg F air you might see the tire pressure drop 3 PSI. You can easily see that this indeed happens by watching the pressures that are reported in the multifunction display section of the dash. And you will probably notice that the pressure of the spare tire drops farther than the pressure of the tires that are rolling because it doesn’t benefit from friction/flexure action. If the tire-pressure/warning-threshold margin is not sufficient then the dropping pressure will cause the TPMS to give a low-pressure warning. For instance if the tire pressure starts off at 33 PSI and the warning-threshold is set to 31 PSI then when you will get a low-pressure warning after you take your car from a relatively warm garage to very cold. The warning is delayed because the pressure doesn’t drop instantly.
For most tires and most driving conditions the car’s manufacturer and the tire’s manufacturer have agreed that a cold inflation pressure and TPMS benchmark pressure of 33 PSI (that’s the pressure of the tires at the typically coldest part of the day, the morning in most instances, the spare is an exception that I will explain later) will provide the best tire performance (tread wear, traction, comfortable ride), greatest protection from underinflated tires and greatest protection from TPMS false alarms.
What so many people don’t understand is how the warning thresholds are established. We are unable to view the warning threshold settings directly so we must either establish them ourselves or have it done by someone we trust to do it correctly and then be vigilant that no one has reached under the dash and pushed that TPMS Set button.
The TPMS warning thresholds are entered indirectly by a process called Benchmarking. This is accomplished by adjusting the inflation of all 5 tires, four rollers and one spare, to the “normal pressure,” 33 PSI in most cases, and pressing the TPMS Set button under the dash. This establishes a warning threshold that is 25% below the normal pressure and in the case of 33 PSI the warning threshold would be at about 25 PSI.
You should only need to benchmark once as the setting will remain until the button is pressed again. The owner’s manual cautions that the benchmark must be redone whenever the battery is disconnected. I am not sure what happens when the battery is disconnected, I suspect that the benchmark is defaulted to 33 PSI but I always redo mine when the battery is disconnected.
Even though the benchmark only needs to be set one time, the tire pressures need periodic attention. The tires are constantly losing air through a process called permeation typically 0.5 PSI per month but up to 1 PSI per month is considered acceptable. You need to watch the pressure on the multifunction display when you first start up in the morning and keep your tire pressures adjusted for 33 PSI. This also requires a seasonal adjustment in that you may have to let some air out when the temperatures suddenly turn warm and you will definitely have to add some air when the temperatures suddenly turn cold.
About the spare: be sure to benchmark it at 33 PSI. I like to inflate my spare to 40 PSI after I benchmark it at 33 PSI. That way I don’t have to give it any attention for permeation or seasonal considerations until its startup pressure falls below 33 PSI.
I hope this helps.
06-17-19, 09:56 AM
#10
Yes PeterinPA, it's time to press that button. But, you need to develop an understanding of the "Benchmark Procedure" before you do that or you may not get good results.
What is probably happening to you is that one or more of the pressures being reported by the tire sensors falls below the warning threshold. Normally the lowest pressure in the tires occurs in the morning, before the car is moved and then rises as the car is driven because the friction and flexure of rolling raises the temperature of the tires. The tires have a positive temperature coefficient, meaning that the pressure goes up as the temperature goes up. In the case of keeping the car in a warm, of relatively warmer, garage, the pressure goes down when the car is taken out into very cold ambient conditions. Typical temperature coefficients for tires is up to 1 PSI per 10 deg F, meaning that if you have your car in a 50 deg F garage and you take it out into 20 deg F air you might see the tire pressure drop 3 PSI. You can easily see that this indeed happens by watching the pressures that are reported in the multifunction display section of the dash. And you will probably notice that the pressure of the spare tire drops farther than the pressure of the tires that are rolling because it doesn’t benefit from friction/flexure action. If the tire-pressure/warning-threshold margin is not sufficient then the dropping pressure will cause the TPMS to give a low-pressure warning. For instance if the tire pressure starts off at 33 PSI and the warning-threshold is set to 31 PSI then when you will get a low-pressure warning after you take your car from a relatively warm garage to very cold. The warning is delayed because the pressure doesn’t drop instantly.
For most tires and most driving conditions the car’s manufacturer and the tire’s manufacturer have agreed that a cold inflation pressure and TPMS benchmark pressure of 33 PSI (that’s the pressure of the tires at the typically coldest part of the day, the morning in most instances, the spare is an exception that I will explain later) will provide the best tire performance (tread wear, traction, comfortable ride), greatest protection from underinflated tires and greatest protection from TPMS false alarms.
What so many people don’t understand is how the warning thresholds are established. We are unable to view the warning threshold settings directly so we must either establish them ourselves or have it done by someone we trust to do it correctly and then be vigilant that no one has reached under the dash and pushed that TPMS Set button.
The TPMS warning thresholds are entered indirectly by a process called Benchmarking. This is accomplished by adjusting the inflation of all 5 tires, four rollers and one spare, to the “normal pressure,” 33 PSI in most cases, and pressing the TPMS Set button under the dash. This establishes a warning threshold that is 25% below the normal pressure and in the case of 33 PSI the warning threshold would be at about 25 PSI.
You should only need to benchmark once as the setting will remain until the button is pressed again. The owner’s manual cautions that the benchmark must be redone whenever the battery is disconnected. I am not sure what happens when the battery is disconnected, I suspect that the benchmark is defaulted to 33 PSI but I always redo mine when the battery is disconnected.
Even though the benchmark only needs to be set one time, the tire pressures need periodic attention. The tires are constantly losing air through a process called permeation typically 0.5 PSI per month but up to 1 PSI per month is considered acceptable. You need to watch the pressure on the multifunction display when you first start up in the morning and keep your tire pressures adjusted for 33 PSI. This also requires a seasonal adjustment in that you may have to let some air out when the temperatures suddenly turn warm and you will definitely have to add some air when the temperatures suddenly turn cold.
About the spare: be sure to benchmark it at 33 PSI. I like to inflate my spare to 40 PSI after I benchmark it at 33 PSI. That way I don’t have to give it any attention for permeation or seasonal considerations until its startup pressure falls below 33 PSI.
I hope this helps.
What is probably happening to you is that one or more of the pressures being reported by the tire sensors falls below the warning threshold. Normally the lowest pressure in the tires occurs in the morning, before the car is moved and then rises as the car is driven because the friction and flexure of rolling raises the temperature of the tires. The tires have a positive temperature coefficient, meaning that the pressure goes up as the temperature goes up. In the case of keeping the car in a warm, of relatively warmer, garage, the pressure goes down when the car is taken out into very cold ambient conditions. Typical temperature coefficients for tires is up to 1 PSI per 10 deg F, meaning that if you have your car in a 50 deg F garage and you take it out into 20 deg F air you might see the tire pressure drop 3 PSI. You can easily see that this indeed happens by watching the pressures that are reported in the multifunction display section of the dash. And you will probably notice that the pressure of the spare tire drops farther than the pressure of the tires that are rolling because it doesn’t benefit from friction/flexure action. If the tire-pressure/warning-threshold margin is not sufficient then the dropping pressure will cause the TPMS to give a low-pressure warning. For instance if the tire pressure starts off at 33 PSI and the warning-threshold is set to 31 PSI then when you will get a low-pressure warning after you take your car from a relatively warm garage to very cold. The warning is delayed because the pressure doesn’t drop instantly.
For most tires and most driving conditions the car’s manufacturer and the tire’s manufacturer have agreed that a cold inflation pressure and TPMS benchmark pressure of 33 PSI (that’s the pressure of the tires at the typically coldest part of the day, the morning in most instances, the spare is an exception that I will explain later) will provide the best tire performance (tread wear, traction, comfortable ride), greatest protection from underinflated tires and greatest protection from TPMS false alarms.
What so many people don’t understand is how the warning thresholds are established. We are unable to view the warning threshold settings directly so we must either establish them ourselves or have it done by someone we trust to do it correctly and then be vigilant that no one has reached under the dash and pushed that TPMS Set button.
The TPMS warning thresholds are entered indirectly by a process called Benchmarking. This is accomplished by adjusting the inflation of all 5 tires, four rollers and one spare, to the “normal pressure,” 33 PSI in most cases, and pressing the TPMS Set button under the dash. This establishes a warning threshold that is 25% below the normal pressure and in the case of 33 PSI the warning threshold would be at about 25 PSI.
You should only need to benchmark once as the setting will remain until the button is pressed again. The owner’s manual cautions that the benchmark must be redone whenever the battery is disconnected. I am not sure what happens when the battery is disconnected, I suspect that the benchmark is defaulted to 33 PSI but I always redo mine when the battery is disconnected.
Even though the benchmark only needs to be set one time, the tire pressures need periodic attention. The tires are constantly losing air through a process called permeation typically 0.5 PSI per month but up to 1 PSI per month is considered acceptable. You need to watch the pressure on the multifunction display when you first start up in the morning and keep your tire pressures adjusted for 33 PSI. This also requires a seasonal adjustment in that you may have to let some air out when the temperatures suddenly turn warm and you will definitely have to add some air when the temperatures suddenly turn cold.
About the spare: be sure to benchmark it at 33 PSI. I like to inflate my spare to 40 PSI after I benchmark it at 33 PSI. That way I don’t have to give it any attention for permeation or seasonal considerations until its startup pressure falls below 33 PSI.
I hope this helps.
to sum it up, benchmark at 33PSI but you can inflate higher afterward. I like to inflate my tires to 37PSI.
06-17-19, 10:42 AM
#12
Intermediate
Like you I have an older 460, mine is an 07, had the same light coming on issue
I went to Discount Tire and they told me all of my TPMS tire sensors were now some 12 years old and the batteries were worn out thus sending the signal.
I had Discount install all new TPMS sensors with new batteries on the rims, "wake up" the new sensor with their hand held thing and all is good now, you need new TPMS sensors.
I went to Discount Tire and they told me all of my TPMS tire sensors were now some 12 years old and the batteries were worn out thus sending the signal.
I had Discount install all new TPMS sensors with new batteries on the rims, "wake up" the new sensor with their hand held thing and all is good now, you need new TPMS sensors.
06-17-19, 06:53 PM
#14
Ran into this problem... Stopped by my local tire shop... They went around the car with a little tester... Found exactly what one was dead... $58 and I was back on the road with the light off...
I was in the shop for less than a 1/2 hour... and she was fixed..
I was in the shop for less than a 1/2 hour... and she was fixed..
03-24-21, 01:52 AM
#15
Driver School Candidate
Owner of 07 Lexus LS460 Base Model. Recently bought aftermarket wheels with aftermarket TPMS installed from Tire Rack. Tire rack already programmed the TPMS sensors based on car make/model/year. Went to a local tire shop for the scanning of the TPMS and uploading to the car's ECU. After scanning the TPMS code of the 5 tires including the spare, its time to load the information to the ECU. First attempt of uploading to ECU, the PSI read out on the dash 2nd from top is showing "0" the rest of the 4 numbers is showing correct PSI. They decided to repeat the process of scanning the codes and uploading again to the car's ECU. This time the PSI read out on the dash 3rd from the top (not the 2nd from the top on the first try) is showing "0", again the remaining 4 is showing correct PSI. My question is, why the tire in question based on the PSI readings is not consistent? From 2nd from the top on the first attempt to 3rd from the top on the second attempt. After several hours of driving, the "0" reading was changed to "checking". In both occasions, the TPMS and the Yellow Triangle Light is illuminated.
Hope to get some insights from you guys. Thank you very much in advance and keep safe!
Hope to get some insights from you guys. Thank you very much in advance and keep safe!