LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017) Discussion topics related to the current flagship models LS460, LS460L and LS600H

2008 LS460L DIY Rear & Front Brake Pads

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Old 03-01-14, 10:03 AM
  #16  
RR601
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Another vote for the Video if not much trouble.
Would the Sport model be much different replacing.
Also would you say its ok to replace just the pads if no vibration or other problems?

thanks
Old 03-01-14, 10:58 AM
  #17  
Tee
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Thx lineup for the thread I added it to the FAQ sticky.
Old 03-01-14, 06:29 PM
  #18  
jlawr
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I'd still like to see a video if it's not too much trouble or at least see the parts in place and then the same view with each part removed. Arrows pointing to parts doesn't seem to make sense to me.
Thanx is advance.
Old 10-26-14, 12:29 PM
  #19  
cruzinZ
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Due to the weight and factory pads used on the LS you will see the break rotors wearing out quicker than other vehicles. A solution to this is to use a different break pad that does not have as much metallic in its construction. This will allow the break rotors to last longer but it comes at a price of the accelerated wear on the pads since the application is for a heavy car.

I would recommend going with an aftermarket high quality break rotor over the stock rotor. It's well documented that the rotors are not the strongest part of this particular model. Also I would not recommend having the rotors resurfaced/turned if your rotors are warped. Your money is better on fixing the problem than putting a temporary fix on it. When you resurface the rotor you are essentially putting the rotor in a lathe to shave off material to make the rotor true again. This just makes the rotor thin and will allow the warping to come back at a much faster rate than with new pads & rotors.

Also skip the high price dealer and use a reputable shop to do the work. If you don't mind getting your hands dirty it's an easy job.
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Old 10-26-14, 12:50 PM
  #20  
williakz
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Decent advice, but I'd take a look at PepBoys for the work. They have EXCELLENT, SOTA brand-new turning equipment (on car, so trues rotor to hub), good prices on service work (parts prices suck), and GREAT coupons to knock the total cost down. Shop was brightly lit, immaculate, and protective drapes were used correctly and extensively. The technician (are they "mechanics" anymore?) that turned my warped LS rotors was so impressed with his after-service test drive, that he told me "That is a MAGNIFICENT automobile!" Made my day.
Old 02-07-15, 04:38 PM
  #21  
USCRugby
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Not sure if it was noted. The censors are on the RIGHT side on the car. I was never told that.
Old 02-13-15, 09:27 AM
  #22  
marylandlp
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Default caliper pistons

Originally Posted by lieup
Hello Everyone:

Here are the steps how to DIY Rear and Front brake pads replacement. Its VERRY easy! Anyone can do it. If you can do a tire rotation you can do this.
Note: I will try to upload images and short video clip of the front brake pads next or so.

Step 1: Releases the parking brake and make sure that the parking brake indicator light goes off.
Step 2: Use the plier to remove the pin hold clips
Step 3: Push the hold pins in with screw driver or long needle plier until the rattle spring fall off.
Step 4: Remove 2 brake pads from caliper, 2 anti squeal shim and anti rattle spring from each pad. Installed the anti squeal shim and anti rattle spring to the new brake pads.
Step 5: Ue the C-clamp to push the piston back so the new pads will slide in perfectly.
Step 6: Installed the pin hold clip first than the anti-rattle springs and that's it.
Lastly, I hope this will help other members.
I'm looking for a tool to push the pistons back after removing the old pads,but without removing the caliper from the knuckle.Have you ever seen one?
Old 02-14-15, 11:40 AM
  #23  
mrgameover
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Originally Posted by marylandlp
I'm looking for a tool to push the pistons back after removing the old pads,but without removing the caliper from the knuckle.Have you ever seen one?
get a small enough C-clamp that willl fit and use the old pad to compress it back.


Old 02-19-15, 05:59 AM
  #24  
marylandlp
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Default caliper pistons

Originally Posted by mrgameover
get a small enough C-clamp that willl fit and use the old pad to compress it back.

Unfortunately i don't believe your suggestion is a viable one. The claw on a 5" C clamp is about 25mm and about 10 mm on a 1" unit.The available space between the rotor and caliper is only about 5mm.That's why i was looking for an off the shelf tool,rather than taking a 5
' clamp to a machine shop for alteration. Notwithstanding,thanks for your suggestion.
Old 02-19-15, 07:25 AM
  #25  
Dirteeboy
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Originally Posted by marylandlp
Unfortunately i don't believe your suggestion is a viable one. The claw on a 5" C clamp is about 25mm and about 10 mm on a 1" unit.The available space between the rotor and caliper is only about 5mm.That's why i was looking for an off the shelf tool,rather than taking a 5
' clamp to a machine shop for alteration. Notwithstanding,thanks for your suggestion.
Like previous poster said if you leave the pads in you can get a bigger footprint for the c clamp claw to push on. You don't need the entire claw to push on the pad, just start with the tip and keep working it in as you open up the space of the caliper. Opening the brake fluid reservoir helps relieve a little pressure.
Old 02-19-15, 08:28 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Dirteeboy
Like previous poster said if you leave the pads in you can get a bigger footprint for the c clamp claw to push on. You don't need the entire claw to push on the pad, just start with the tip and keep working it in as you open up the space of the caliper. Opening the brake fluid reservoir helps relieve a little pressure.
You'll also want to remove a bit of fluid with a turkey baster, as pushing back the pistons may spill some of the fluid out of the reservoir.
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Old 07-09-15, 03:06 AM
  #27  
Becker135
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Did Pads and Discs last night. Very easy, and both of my fronts had sensors, not just the passenger side. Made a wire hanger for the caliper to move it out of the way while replacing the disc and it only took 30 min per wheel to do both pads and discs.
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Old 02-06-16, 08:46 AM
  #28  
johnnyg66
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Correct me if I am wrong. If only doing pads you still need to remove calipers? This diy seems to say they unclip and pull out the top.
Old 02-06-16, 10:58 AM
  #29  
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If just doing pads, you don't need to remove the calipers...but once the pads are out, you do need to use your clamp to push the pistons back in as far as possible so that you can get your fatter (new) pads in.
Old 02-06-16, 11:02 AM
  #30  
CRowe14
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Originally Posted by sdwtchlvr
If just doing pads, you don't need to remove the calipers...but once the pads are out, you do need to use your clamp to push the pistons back in as far as possible so that you can get your fatter (new) pads in.
Take it from ^^^ as he is the most recent member to do a brake job!
That in conjunction with the fact that he's correct.


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