OEM Air Suspension ride height links below car..adjustable?
02-25-13, 01:43 PM
#61
Moderator
Thread Starter
Actually the bracket doesn't need to be turned at all.
The purpose of turning the bracket is to bring the link down (clockwise in that pic). That bracket should stay in that hole because if that isn't, then you have two pivoting pieces which can possibly confuse the ECU.
See the diagram below. The piece that is not pictured in my original picture is another bracket that pivots. By lengthening or shortening the link, it will push the bracket up or down respectively.
The purpose of turning the bracket is to bring the link down (clockwise in that pic). That bracket should stay in that hole because if that isn't, then you have two pivoting pieces which can possibly confuse the ECU.
See the diagram below. The piece that is not pictured in my original picture is another bracket that pivots. By lengthening or shortening the link, it will push the bracket up or down respectively.
02-25-13, 02:30 PM
#62
Yes, the screen just says:
NORMAL
SELECT
I leave it just like that when I go on road trips or going to be driving the car all over town over bad roads and such. When I am doing my daily back and forth on roads I know, I leave mine on memory position 4 which for me is 4 front, 3 rear, which to me is right on the line to where any lower it really doesn't ride as nice. I guess if you wanted to test, preset your memory position one to like 5 all around. Let it get to that level. Then dial up on the arrow to get NORMAL SELECT and the car should raise to stock height...my guess is that the controller is in a neutral state awaiting input..again, just going off the word NORMAL being used. I could be a coincidence, I don't know. I wish I could get that entire manual translated becuase I am trying to figure out what speedometer thing is all about. I left that unplugged..I guess you can trigger the levels at certain speeds or something..i dunno.
My Memory Settings are:
Normal Select I assume is 0 Front, 0 Rear
Memory 1 is 1 Front, 0 Rear
Memory 2 is 2 Front, 1 Rear
Memory 3 is 3 Front, 2 Rear
Memory 4 is 4 Front, 3 Rear
Memory 5 is Super Low mode for meets, etc
NORMAL
SELECT
I leave it just like that when I go on road trips or going to be driving the car all over town over bad roads and such. When I am doing my daily back and forth on roads I know, I leave mine on memory position 4 which for me is 4 front, 3 rear, which to me is right on the line to where any lower it really doesn't ride as nice. I guess if you wanted to test, preset your memory position one to like 5 all around. Let it get to that level. Then dial up on the arrow to get NORMAL SELECT and the car should raise to stock height...my guess is that the controller is in a neutral state awaiting input..again, just going off the word NORMAL being used. I could be a coincidence, I don't know. I wish I could get that entire manual translated becuase I am trying to figure out what speedometer thing is all about. I left that unplugged..I guess you can trigger the levels at certain speeds or something..i dunno.
My Memory Settings are:
Normal Select I assume is 0 Front, 0 Rear
Memory 1 is 1 Front, 0 Rear
Memory 2 is 2 Front, 1 Rear
Memory 3 is 3 Front, 2 Rear
Memory 4 is 4 Front, 3 Rear
Memory 5 is Super Low mode for meets, etc
As far as the speedometer thing goes - it doesn't work because the cable is left unconnected. If you attach it, the car will not allow you adjust the height while driving. So that's why it's left untouched - you could either have it to tell you what speed you're going (which is useless cause you have your speedometer) or you could adjust height while driving.
02-25-13, 05:50 PM
#64
Moderator
Thread Starter
02-25-13, 05:55 PM
#65
Moderator
Thread Starter
Interesting. I'll actually try that today!
As far as the speedometer thing goes - it doesn't work because the cable is left unconnected. If you attach it, the car will not allow you adjust the height while driving. So that's why it's left untouched - you could either have it to tell you what speed you're going (which is useless cause you have your speedometer) or you could adjust height while driving.
As far as the speedometer thing goes - it doesn't work because the cable is left unconnected. If you attach it, the car will not allow you adjust the height while driving. So that's why it's left untouched - you could either have it to tell you what speed you're going (which is useless cause you have your speedometer) or you could adjust height while driving.
02-25-13, 07:03 PM
#66
I'm not sure whether it's the adjusting of the sensors or if it was something else but after I adjusted the links, the front passenger raised back to stock but all other three corners just didn't want to do anything. I originally had it lowered it down to super L and when I tried to raise it back to anything - stock, 0, 1, 2, 3,4, 5, 6, 7... It did not want to move or adjust.
After getting a little frustrated, I took it out for a drive - uneven, and I parked and tried to bring it back down to super L again and it went. I then tried again to raise it back up and voila - it did.
I'm not sure if it just takes some driving around to get it to notice that the corners are uneven, but it was definitely frustrating.
02-25-13, 07:26 PM
#67
Actually the bracket doesn't need to be turned at all.
The purpose of turning the bracket is to bring the link down (clockwise in that pic). That bracket should stay in that hole because if that isn't, then you have two pivoting pieces which can possibly confuse the ECU.
See the diagram below. The piece that is not pictured in my original picture is another bracket that pivots. By lengthening or shortening the link, it will push the bracket up or down respectively.
The purpose of turning the bracket is to bring the link down (clockwise in that pic). That bracket should stay in that hole because if that isn't, then you have two pivoting pieces which can possibly confuse the ECU.
See the diagram below. The piece that is not pictured in my original picture is another bracket that pivots. By lengthening or shortening the link, it will push the bracket up or down respectively.
BTW, awesome diagram. Didn't see the X rated graphics until someone pointed it out to me. Thanks!!!
02-25-13, 07:41 PM
#68
I shortened it by 6 threads and there was no change. That could have been too little of a change, but it wasn't noticeable so I put it back and left it as is.
LOL I know I didn't notice the dirty pic either...
02-25-13, 09:55 PM
#71
Lexus Champion
On another note, this thread has inspired me to attempt to lower my benz. Lowering links are only 150 bucks for that car, but I'm interested in going underneath and seeing if there's something similar to this.
02-26-13, 05:45 AM
#72
Instructor
Actually the bracket doesn't need to be turned at all.
The purpose of turning the bracket is to bring the link down (clockwise in that pic). That bracket should stay in that hole because if that isn't, then you have two pivoting pieces which can possibly confuse the ECU.
See the diagram below. The piece that is not pictured in my original picture is another bracket that pivots. By lengthening or shortening the link, it will push the bracket up or down respectively.
The purpose of turning the bracket is to bring the link down (clockwise in that pic). That bracket should stay in that hole because if that isn't, then you have two pivoting pieces which can possibly confuse the ECU.
See the diagram below. The piece that is not pictured in my original picture is another bracket that pivots. By lengthening or shortening the link, it will push the bracket up or down respectively.
02-26-13, 06:08 AM
#73
I tried turning the threaded rod and it wouldnt turn. I was thinking of using pliers or a vicegrip and try and turn it but didnt want to mess up the thread. Now Im thinking that maybe if that works, you can actually thread a nut half way up the threaded rod and tack weld it in place. Then use a wrench that would fit to make your adjustments. Hmmmmmmm.
02-26-13, 03:50 PM
#75
I tried turning the threaded rod and it wouldnt turn. I was thinking ofusing pliers or a vicegrip and try and turn it but didnt want to mess up the thread. Now Im thinking that maybe if that works, you can actually thread a nut half way up the threaded rod and tack weld it in place. Then use a wrench that would fit to make your adjustments. Hmmmmmmm.